383 valley pan advice

Hello folks!
I am in the process of my first engine build. What advice do you have for properly installing the valley pan, intake gaskets, and my Edelbrock 383 Performer.
I plan on spraying both sides of valley pan where gasket mates with Hi Tack. Should I use all four gaskets that came with the Mr Gasket Valley pan? I was thinking of using the permatex black at the front and rear hold down bars. Also, use the permatex in the four corners of the Intake to seal up.
I read somewhere to only use the gaskets between the intake and valley pan but not between the valley pan and cylinder head.
I'm trying to seal this up right without making a mess - I had to completely redo the windage tray and oil pan due to too much permatex. Trying to avoid doing this twice. Any help I would really appreciate!
Thanks guys!

Just did this exact thing the other day on my 383 with an Edelbrock Performer. There's probably many opinions but this is the way I do it.

1) Yes on the gasket adhesive. Makes it so the gaskets don't slide around so much. They still will a bit but it's better to have it on there.

2) I started out with the paper gaskets on both sides of the valley pan but found it was too tight and the bolts would not line up. Took the extra gaskets off between the cylinder head and valley pan, went right down and the bolts threaded easily. Just make sure to check alignment as best as you can looking through the plenum with a flashlight before final torque.

3) My personal choice for sealing goop from a tube is grey Permatex. On the front and rear hold down rails schmeer a bead of goop on the outside of the three bolt holes to reduce the chance of it falling inside at some point.

4) Spread goop on the corners where the heads meet the block. Don't be shy on that but don't make a mess. Spread it out with a finger to make it even so you don't have it squishing out all over the place. Connect it going around the corners up the heads a little. Be prepared for the tips of gaskets to slide around when the goop gets on them. That's why you try to keep it to a minimum and spread it evenly.

5) Work quick but don't rush!

6) Tighten the bolts from the inside outwards, alternating back and forth on either side. Don't forget your throttle bracket and return when putting the bolts in.

just me I like the paper gaskets & there are different thicknesses of em available. Mockup dry & check bolt hole alignment & valley pan fitment on front/rear

The paper gaskets vary in thickness. The .015" work great on stock applications, something like .060" will be too thick for that.

I run them on both sides of intake port area, never had a vacuum or any other leak that way.
The sealant described front/rear/corners I do as well.

Ive replaced them since the 60 never any sprays or papers.Ive run stock and aluminum heads and intakes never a leak.All I do is use a bit of s licone on the 4 corners and a touch where the hold downs hold it down.Back in the day they were even reused as they were pricey back then.Rocky

Stock headed 383 should need goop on the ends and corners. No paper gasket needed.

Thank you for all of your responses fellas!
When I carefully apply goop at the corners - for clarity

- these are slightly behind the valley pan steel bars? The corner where the intake meets the head and block?

^^^ correct

As said correct I also put just a bit uner the pan where the hold down bars are.I hate goop but Ive never had a leak doing this.rocky

Back in THE DAY ? ....

IF you have the THIN PAPERS you can glue them to both sides of the metal THEN SPRAY the head and intake surface to allow EZ removal and make it reusable

If you can't use both paper intake gaskets remove the one between the manifold and pan, not the one between the pan and the head The reason being you can suck oil up into the intake with the stock pan if you have minor casting issues or scratches on the head surfaces, the thin intake gasket will fix that