Plymouth E body chassis distinction from 70 to 74

I think someone already asked this question sometime ago but I dont recall anyone having a real answer. I am interested to find out what characteristic differences from year to year on a rolling chassis for E bodies without the obvious body stamped codes . I ask this question because I visited a a guy in CA. Wont mention who but he was working on a 72 E body and re welding a piece of metal replacing a stamped body ID number on the radiator mount. He mentioned that 70-71 code is more desirable. I could see he had already finished the cowling side and it came out as though it was never replaced. I acted stupid and ignorant but I think you all could guess what I was thinking. This chassis had no fenders, grill, interior or anything that I can identify as 72 other than the body stamp. I am sure there has to be some variations from the 5 years this body was produced.

What does a professional appraisers look for when idenfying original from fake chassis?

Lots of little things. For most part 70 is pretty unique with a lot of one year only stampings that make up the unibody shell. 71 and later seem to share a larger percentage of assemblies, but 72 through 74 seem to be the same. I am not exactly sure on Cuda, but I know a lot of little differences on Challenger shells. There are enough little things that I would look for to tell a rebody. Some are so hard to change, I don't think t would be worth it unless talking Hemi car.

Hemi car or not swapping VINs, body numbers included is VIN tampering & a felony.

I just re-read my post. I agree. Its illegal. I meant to convey that most purveyors of such nefarious deeds probably wouldn't consider making the changes except for high dollar car.

The only things I got is the inner fenders..the drivers side from 72 up has a bolt for the battery hold down..and the 70 right side inner fender is different than 71 up because of the fuel vapor line notch cut out in the inner fender..other than that, they all look the same.
https://youtu.be/0fSyxPzz_OQ

If someone's creating fraudulent cars, it would be good for the hobby to know who it is, before someone gets burned or the practice continues.

Interesting that people are responding to the OP (who has 20 posts) Who is asking for advice on what constitutes a ‘real’ car, yet when someone asks the same about a fender tag it’s all hush hush don’t give away the secrets. (In order to avoid increasing the fraud problem of course).

I suppose now that I asked this question, I am thinking it might be best to keep it hush hush as to your point to protect from increasing frudulant issues. Keep the secret a secret. I simply want someone to say that there is something that can be identified from year to year. I spent ton of money on my 70 model and would be extremely pissed if it turned to be a different year.

I have a VERY good connection within CA law enforcement that specializes in VIN swap cars & bringing these losers to justice.

If you want to email me with the details, hopefully we can get this guy shut down.

sixpak340(insert at symbol here)att.net

Those are the big ones. For 70 Challengers anyway, I have at least a half dozen small changes in stamped parts that are unique to the 70 shell, differ for 71 and yet differ again in some ways for 72-74.

BUTTTT you can do this to 69 camaro,57 chevy, 50's chevy trucks,some 50'ford trucks with complete new bodies and lots of other cars and trucks.wonder why they don't make new B-E BODIES? just wondering.

i thought dynacorn [?] was making a complete challenger body ?
or maybe a test body ?
i saw it in a magazine article a while back, but can't remember how long ago that was.

57 Chevy's etc.. did not come with 427 engines etc. so if you bought one thats custom it wouldn't matter.
E bodies are pulling Big $$, so to ask the differences is a doubles edge sword. like fender tags. keep it secret cuts down on fraud.
someone paying big dollars for a high dollar e body can get an expert. sure worth it.
Even Nazi SS stuff has alot a counterfeits. WHY? $$