Six pack issues after rebuild

I have an AAR, automatic, manifolds, basically stock.
The car ran well before I rebuilt the carbs except for the fact, there was an internal fuel leak, car flooded after it sat for a few minutes, and the carbs were leaking bad. The car had been sitting up for 20 years. I pulled the carbs, re-jetted, new gaskets, new PV, cleaned everything very well. When I put the carbs back on the car it fired right up and I adjusted the center carb air/fuel ratio to 2 turns from seat. I did not remove the plugs and adjust the screws on the outboard carbs. While driving the car it progressively started running worse, and dies at a stop sign. I have to give it gas to get it to fire back up. It does seem as if it is running rich. I don't have any external obvious leaks. I did adjust all three floats so I have slight gas seepage out of sight bowl screw when I bump the car. I feel like the PV is leaking, bad or some trash found its was in the idle circuit of the center carb. I will say it acts like I have a vacuum leak too, but don't see any evidence of this.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

Tri power?????????

You believe it is running rich AND might have a vacuum leak. With more than one problem to track down, you might be ahead to have a Holley carb guy look at it. Without some experience, multiple problems at once can be a bear to unravel.

But for one thing, if you think it is a bad power valve, most auto supplies will have a 6.5 in stock for $10 or so. Throw one in, just to see.

The PV that is in it came with the kit, but it could be bad.

Yea, I hate more than I problem, but it is probably the carb since it was running ok prior to the rebuild. Probably should had not mentioned the vacuum comment in order to not confuse the issue.

Check the needle and seat on the carb. Had that same issue about a year or so back. Same exact symptoms you are describing. Turned out the needle and seat assembly was bad,
allowing too much fuel to pass through. Very easy to check and replace. This was on a Holley carb.

Explain what you mean by re jetted.If it was fine before,needle/seats,accelerator pump and gaskets ( what base gasket did you use?) should have corrected the problem unless you have a vacuum leak..Also two turns out on the center carb may or may not be correct.The correct way to adjust is back the screws out anywhere from 2 to 3 turns,turn in until RPM's start to drop and then back out another 1/4 turn.

Mis spoke regarding jets, sorry. I installed new needle and seats.

based on you description you may have a contaminated / rusty fuel system or lines, possibly both. The description leads me to believe one or more of the carbs is puddling likely due to a contaminated needle and seat.

One of the outboard carbs needle and seat was contaminated. I got the engine running a lot better but still not 100%. I think I may have a small vacuum leak. I will hunt that down.

Thanks for the help.

You can spray brake or carb cleaner around the carbs, intake and vacuum lines to quickly find any vacuum leaks. Adding a wide band to your car will really help in sorting out cab issues. What do you have your initial and total timing set at?

Needle and seat performance varies pretty widely. I have gone through several sets to find really good pairs.

if it happens again or continues to occur as previously mentioned you may have a contaminated system or Internally rusted lines. I have encountered lines that appear fine on the outside but are rusty on the inside. I also recommend using compressed air to blow through all lines just before installing them. Don't ask me how I learned these things

I used this info in this link to help with my issues. https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/373854/1.html

I admit I did not adjust the air/fuel ratio in my outboard carbs...yet. But did adjust the center carb of course and have that adjusted well.
By adjusting the float level higher than spec made my car run better.
I tried to adjust the idle with the solenoid de-energized and then energized and did not have get it to react as is written. At the moment by curb idle is approximately 900 RPM's with the solenoid energized.
At the moment the car is running well.

Thanks for all the posts.