In-car distributor bushing replacement

In an effort to chase down some horrendous spark scatter (~8°), I was checking the disrtibutor tang to drive fit (very good), drive gear to cam gear fit (normal), and drive shaft wear (not pretty). Old shaft had about .003 reduction in diameter. The bushing, however, has about .010 - .015 wear in the bore on the forward side. Right/left was decent.

I am going to R&R the bushing in the block I have a small diameter pilot bushing puller coming that will fit down the .460 bore, and I plan on cutting the hex off the old drive and using it as a driver. I keep hearing that the newer bushings dont have to be burnished. We'll see how it fits. If the puller can't get it, I'll use a grease packed tap to bite into it. I'll weld a nut to the back of the tap to allow me to hook a slde hammer to it. I've done this before on other bushings and it works well.

Any tips, tricks, or advice before I do this Wednesday night?

you got any buddies that work at dodge dealer? ask them to let you borrow the remover and burnishing tools. after a couple years, 3.9 v6 had problems with the bushing. tools are from years past but should be there unless at someone else's address.

I've used a long 3/8" extension to knock the bushing up and out of the block from the pump boss. of course the oil pump has to come out. then I use a piece of 3/8" all thread with a plate attached to the all thread at the pump boss, and run the all thread thru the bushing with a couple of flat washers against the bushing flange, both ends of the all thread nutted, and pull the bushing in by tightening one of the nuts. I usually use the pump side to tighten but it doesn't make any difference.

Like Lewtot...I drove mine out from below. You are working on a big block right?
Put a lock collar on the distributor shaft!!! A LOT of your scatter is likely the oil pump drive riding up and down on the camshaft drive gear which of course is helical! Not good! Buy a collar at hardware store, install snugly (but not too tight) on shaft, and install distributor. collar will find its own position on the shaft as you tighten distributor hold down.
Remove distributor and tighten collar...I would use thread locker on the Allen screws.
Now your pump drive cannot travel vertical on the distributor shaft.

66488 proform tool, $90 less 15% today on ebay.

Tool inbound

Like Pac said I'd try the collar first. If you do the bushing I'd freeze it overnight & when all done lightly snug the pump bolts/install the intergear/final torque pump bolts for a dead on hex alignment, more critical on a SB but I would do it

I have run the collar in the past, before I went to crank trigger wheel. It only got it down to ≈4°. The bushing is definitely shot, it is worn to the point there is no chamfer left on the forward side of the top of the bore, but it is there on the other 270°. I'll put the collar back on when this is all done.