E body hemi fitment issues

I had to pull the new hemi crate back out of my cuda, so I figured now would be the time to fix my fitment issues. I have a small block k member in the car and I'm using the Schumacher hemi conversion mounts. When the engine is in the car, the passenger side valve cover is touching the inner fender and I can't even pull the valve cover off of that side without unbolting the engine and raising it up. It also hits the blower motor and the tti headers hit the power steering box. The car has Ray Barton cast aluminum valve covers. I knew that these mounts raised the engine up about an inch, but has anybody else had the side to side fitment issues? I'm considering just buying a hemi converted small block k member but I would hate to spend the money and to do all of the work just to run into the same problem. Is anyone else running the Ray Barton valve covers or tti hemi headers and having the same issues?

Hemis with headers are always gonna be tight. One thing you can do while the engine is out... have a T shape cut from your inner fender, push it in an inch, and reweld it. The shock mount hole will need to move so its in the original position and the old hole welded up. Gave me way more space than I had. I have the tall Barton (actually made by Stage V) valvecovers also.

B and E body engine compartments are the same. My Hemi fits fine w TTI headers and stock steering box. I run a Hemi converted crossmember w stock type mounts. I think your problems are mostly caused by the conversion mounts.

Are you using the conversion mounts or a hemi K member in your car?

those tall valve covers are part of the problem.
a hemi K member would probably help make it fit better.

trimming the bumps on the inner fender and moving the shock in would be a BIG help. i have done this on several cars.
if you do this you might need to buy aftermarket upper arms. this will help a lot on getting large, like 5*+, amounts of positive caster.
if you trim the inner fender you loose adjustment space to move the rear adjuster in. this is required to get large amount of positive caster.

I have the 2 1/4 TTIs in my Cuda and had to dimple several tubes on the driver's side. The 2 1/8 headers probably would have helped with that. I moved the shock and notched the passenger wheel well on an A body project, but did not need to on my Cuda. I thought that the newer Indy valve covers had better fit in that area. If so, that might be the lesser of the difficult choices.

I used the K from the vendor at the Indy Show that converts original non Hemi Ks to the Hemi mounts. I can't remember the name but he's been doing them a long time. Fit was dead-on for me.

When I notched the wheel well in the Dart, I just used a piece of angle iron for the notch. Worked very well and looked good. I didn't run into any trouble with the rear arm of the upper control arm. But then, I always cut 1/4" out of the rear arm of the UCA which allows me all the adjustment I need.

Originally, the Hemis just barely fit into our cars. So just about anything after market is dimensionally larger and starts hitting things.

I have a motorplate, 2.25" TTI headers, and Indy tall cast aluminum covers. Mine sits in what has to be the stock location b/c the headers have VERY LITTLE wiggle room. I have no heater/blower motor to deal with.
I had to clearance the pass. inner fender under the shock mount for valve cover clearance. I used heat and a BFH.

They are a tight fit. My mega block has wedge mounts and didn't need any modification but normal headers don't fit.

I guess I got lucky, I put my Hemi in a 70 Barracuda that was an original 318 A/C car with no issues. I used Schumacher conversion mounts and TTI 2-1/8 headers that went in with no mods even with power steering. The only complaint I have is that I can't use my MP cast aluminum V/C's because of the pass side shock tower clearance. I wonder if an8sec70cuda could get a closer picture of the mods to the shock tower as my engine is out right now and I would like a better view of just how much to work it over.

To the OP, it seems like I read that the later version Schumachers fit the engine at the stock height, I think the old ones were the ones that set it up higher. Mine worked out fine( bought them in 2011) and my shaker clears the hood. One alternative on the valve covers is going to the original stamped steel V/C's , on mine, they clear ok and just require a little manipulation to remove. I'd rather have the aluminum also, but unless I do some fender mods, that won't happen. Good Luck!

I'm guessing I should have the newer ones, I bought mine in 2013. Even with a stock 2x4 intake and stock air cleaner, I have at most only 1/2" hood clearance.

I had the Schumachers, but swapped in a DebeveC K-frame. I already had the inner fenders done after seeing a post on it here. 2 1/8 TTIs are still tight. Barton milled 1/2 in off the Stage V 2x4 intake as I'd measured the clearance already. And I have the dropbase plate for the aircleaner.

How much of a difference did it make going from the Schumacher mounts to the hemi k member? Also, does your car have power or manual steering? I'm going to be changing out the steering box while my engine is out and I'm considering converting over to manual steering to gain more clearance and to clean up the engine bay. I know the manual box is a lot smaller, but I hope it's smaller in every dimension so that it doesn't interfere in a different location on the headers.