What clutch pkg for street?

What clutch do you like for stock street use?
1971 Charger stock 440 4speed
Stay with the borg & beck 3 finger or go with diaphragm style?

Looking at this McLeod..
https://www.mcleodracing.com/index.php/clutch-kits/street-pro/street-pro-95284.html

I personally like the stock setup,10.95 b&b. A diaphragm will need to have the heavy spring removed from the clutch pedal assembly from what I have been told.
I have driven a few of my buddy's GM stuff with diaphragm set ups and they don't seem to be the same when you get the urge to power shift here and there.

I did see a note stating that the overcenter spring needs to be removed.

Centerforce here. The was a recent post where the CF assemblies got a lot of

CLUTCH POST

Previous 4-speed car, I put a Centerforce diaphragm in it and was happy with it: easy to work & modulate, plenty of clamp.
Current car, prior owner put a McLeod diaphragm in it; higher leg effort, narrow "window" to modulate. I don't like it as much.
Both street cars, both B-bodies.

Way back I used to race my 1970 charger rt (4-speed) against a dude at the track occasionally that had a 70 boss 302 mustang (4-speed) for fun. That was back when the centerforce had just came out which he had, and would use the excuse of the clutch pedal sticking down occasionally . I want to say that he would run it up to/past 7000. I have no idea if it was true though.

I am using the Mcleod Borg and Beck 3 finger. Mcleod doesn't make the pressure plate anymore(360153). I have a used pressure plate that Mcleod rebuilt and will be installing it next month. Passon Perf and Brewers sells Ram clutch kits. Both of them have had no issues with them so far.

Back in about 1970, I ran a Scheifer Rev-Lok diaphragm clutch that would stick to the floor at anything over 6K. The solution was to adjust the linkage so that there was only 30 thousands clearance between the disk and flywheel when the pedal was fully depressed. That made for about two inches of free play at the top. Solution to that was a really heavy spring to bring the clutch pedal up to the top so it felt like a normal clutch. No doubt the linkage could have been reworked to change the bellcrank ratios, but why bother. That diaphragm clutch had a really soft feel, but it locked up much better than the 3000 pound three finger clutch I had before.

McLeod diaphragm here and very happy with it.
Ehrenberg recommends a diaphragm over the stock finger style on the street.

Center force behind my 600HP 440.Great setup and works great.I used to run McCleod 3500 pound 3 finger.Switching was the best thing i did.Rocky

Let's try to say this without upsetting the purists. 1st of all, if the car needs to stay correct. No choice but to go Borg n Beck, it's proper.

Now onto the facts. All 3 finger set ups are old technology. The pedal has the most spring pressure at the wrong time, when it's released. The least amount when the clutch is engaged. So if the disc slips you need to add more spring pressure. What happens is you get a tiny bit more on the disc but mostly on your left leg.

A diaphram style places most of it's pressure on the disc while it's clamped. Basically it goes over center when it's released making the same pressure plate that can contain alot of power, easy to disengage.

Centerforce for me.