4sp Trans install ?

Whats the prefered method....bell housing attached to block....or transmission. have been told both....

Which car and motor are you wanting help on?
I use to install BB in early (pre 1971) B,E and A body with the tranny attached to the bellhousing and motor, on 426 Hemi motors I would install the motor with the bellhousing and clutch installed on the motor and install the tranny from the bottom
It depends on many things, some guys like to install the motors with the tranny on the K member and lower the car onto it fromm above like the factory did on the assembly lines, not me though I don't have the equipment or desire to do them that way

Sorry,,,,,should have specified. 70 RR 383. Motor is in car. Trans and bellhousing out for clutch install. Car up on jackstands. Have a trans jack. Was told it can be easier to align ect with bellhousing attached to transmission

To me, that's counterintuitive. With the bellhousing attached you have to deal with the z-bar and housing bolts. With just the trans, it's easy to stab the TO bearing and slide it in.

I put in the engine, then I attach the bell to the engine and setup the clutch linkage. Then I stab the trans and use the clutch pedal to release the disc if I need to get it to align. I also generally replace two of the four trans to bell bolts with studs to help guide the trans.

I install the bellhousing to block. Install throwout bearing, Use a bungee cord to hold fork/throwout bearing against fingers. That makes it a little less easy to knock the TOB off of the fork. Slide trans in, knock off TOB, put back on for, slide trans in......etc. Eventually it ends up in. Installing trans with bell would eliminate that, but make everything else harder

Just did this on my 70 Challenger... Installed clutch and bellhousing to engine then installed the gear box. Easy if everything is lined up. I had to realign the clutch disc because it was slightly off. The alignment tool offers way too much slack in lining it up.. It looks right but 4 hrs of fighting it said other wise. Once I realigned the disc it slid straight in. Just FYI.

I am not sure what you mean... "knock the TOB off of the fork". Last attempt i had the clutch/pressure plate aligned with tool...I think. We had it in with less then a inch to go... looks like its was hitting on the bellhousing and the lip on the trans... I did have the spring on the TOB... not sure if I should have. pulled every thing back off to check... did not have the Zbar or linkage installed at all...

The struggle is real.... lol

If you used one of the plastic disc alignment tools that come with a clutch kit, they're junk. Best disc alignment tool is a factory input shaft.

Wish I had one....

That's the way I was taught to do it by my Dad. Never had a problem. And John is right on the money about using a factory input shaft.



Tim

Same here. Assemble clutch disc and pressure plate to flywheel, then bellhousing, , throwout bearing, then transmission.

Leave the transmission in 4rth gear so you can turn the output shaft during install. It will turn the input shaft if the splines are not aligned.

As for alignment tools. These guys like a spare input shaft because they are the proper size but even the proper size will fit loose in a properly clearanced pilot bushing.
So even with the proper input shaft gravity will pull it down 1/4 to 1/2". Let if fall, then raise it up. Half way between those two points is where you want it while you tighten the pressure plate bolts. With that knowledge, even a deep socket or a broom stick will perfectly center it everytime.

Its in.. took time....had some help with alignment...