Moparts

Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car?

Posted By: Cab_Burge

Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/25/19 12:45 AM

I usually use MSD race ignition boxes on most of my Hi Pi street and strip cars but I'm hoping someone on here can recommend a good stock type 4 and 5 pin ECU for a stock type Mopar ignition system.
I've heard that some of the stock after market units are better than the Mopar OEM units with higher unrestricted RPM limit and I've heard the opposite also confused help
I have several after market ECU, one from Accel is intermittent on wanting to start good so I replaced it with a stock Mopar black OEM unit and it starts right up but I've seen and heard that the stock ECU RPM are govern to run no higher than 6200 RPM, true or not?
I'm getting ready to license a 1966 Dodge Coronet 2 door Coronet Deluxe 2 door sedan that I put a 440 and NP833 O.D. tranny in it so I don't want the ECU restricting the performance on this car work
Any recommendation on which brand and part # to use will be greatly appreciated up
Posted By: Sniper

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/25/19 02:34 AM

Are you planning to spin it up to 6200 rpm or more?

Doesn't seem so with an OD trans.
Posted By: stumpy

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/25/19 04:20 AM

Most big block Mopars are out of the power band at that high an RPM unless they are built high performance engines.
Posted By: Dave_J

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/25/19 04:39 AM

The issue with most of the 40+ year old OEM is dwell scatter at higher RPM. The Orange box was a bit tighter and the Chrome was said to be best. A Gold box was said to be the ultimate but the one I bought for my car one of my sons 'Friends' needed it more than I did but didn't tell me it just came up missing one day. frown

But in my opinion, on a 90% street/10% strip car, OEM works very well
Posted By: topside

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/25/19 05:07 AM

Everyone that makes an aftermarket "high-performance" ECU claims great things, but I haven't the time or means to test them, wish someone would.
One thing I've read from various sellers is that the orange box always pulls timing out at higher RPM, though I don't know if that's true.
(If it is true, that may not even be bad, if you recall the concept of high-RPM retard...)
Only recent experience experience with ECUs is a street car I bought with a Rev-N-Nator in it.
With the vac advance hooked up, it'd rattle like mad at upper RPM or full throttle under load.
Sure enough, when I got the instructions from them, they said disconnect/plug VA, set max timing at 36 and go.
I'm still of the opinion that more VA than that under cruise/light throttle is a good thing (obviously not detonating).
I swapped the Rev-N-Nator for a Standard LX101, re-connected the VA, runs the same (if not better) and no detonation.

On the last few hot street/strip deals, I've used an MP dist, FBO plate or limited slots, MSD6, and F150 coil and they've all run great, lit off quickly, no detonation.
Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/25/19 07:38 AM

[quote=Sniper]Are you planning to spin it up to 6200 rpm or more?

Doesn't seem so with an OD trans.[
/quote]This motor is a little better than stock devil 3.91 stroke, bigger than stock factory cam, a set of Herb Mc Candless 452 ported big valve heads, RAS 1.6 rocker arms,, Eddy Performer RPM with a later model (List 4781-7) Holley 850 DP , 2.0 headers with a full 3.0 exhaust system to the rear bumper. typical fun street and cruise build, I hope luck
I'm expecting a little bit above 520HP at or above 5900 RPM hence I don't want he ECU to limit the upper RPM below 7000 RPM work
I'm thinking it will stop pulling hard around 5800 to 6400 RPM so when it tongue comes out it is time for me to shift it wrench
Thanks to all of you for the help bow thumbs
Posted By: NachoRT74

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/25/19 10:37 AM

just one word ( if we can say like that ):

Rev-N-Nator

http://rev-n-nator.com/index.html

on the replacement for the standard LX101 topside had to made, I'm having detonations issues too with the Rev-N-Nator installed but I think it comes from another area such as incorrect quench ( I'm over 10:1 CR with iron heads ), because once I installed the one being sold by Rick Erehnberg on ebay ( Hi-Rev 7500 ) and got the same. That could be another option on the cheap? but a friend of mine got one and failed after 3 months. I have it as spare.

In the past I was plenty Happy with the A688 FBO unit but just last long around 6 months. That one replaced the Chromed MP, which I got failed 3 in a row in two years. ( Transistor is the culprit ). Both of them got me a crispier spark than any other, but the Rev-N-Nator gets a smoother and faster aceleration curve.
Posted By: fastmark

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/25/19 01:35 PM

I have not used the Revanator but recently installed the entire distributor and ecu from don at FBO. I really like it. I had a flat spot in the acceleration I could just not get it all out. We had a brand new( from 1999) mopar dist and orange box. The distributor had too much mechanical advance. Bought Don’s system with ecu. Set initial timing at 18 with total at 34 with vacuum plugged in. Idles perfect now with more vacuum for power brakes, no flat spot with a couple of carb adjustments and no pinging with acceleration. Spins the tires, pulls hard and barks the tires with second gear shift (automatic). Customer almost teared up when I took him for a ride. He’s had three other shops try to fix it and even had it on a dyno with three carbs. I’m sold. It was a problem car so I’m going to be using this system on one of mine that runs decent. I bet it will help. One thing I noticed is that the timing was rock solid with my timing light and the flash was much brighter than with the orange ECU. Hope this helps.
Posted By: lewtot184

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/25/19 01:57 PM

I've used them all from the $15 "whatever" boxes to the FBO rev-limiter box. i'm back to the old LX101 boxes in both my cars and will stay there. I do think the chrome is the best general purpose performance box.
Posted By: Jjs72D

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/25/19 02:44 PM

I don't understand the term LX101 box. I have never seen one advertised with that name.
Posted By: moparx

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/25/19 03:59 PM

Originally Posted by Jjs72D
I don't understand the term LX101 box. I have never seen one advertised with that name.


that is the "Standard Ignition Products" part number.
available at almost every parts store, rock auto, e-bag, amazon, and other places.
beer
Posted By: bee1971

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/25/19 04:20 PM

Rev N Nator parts have been back ordered and unavailable all year
Posted By: Sniper

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/25/19 09:35 PM

Either FBO's HRR688

or the Standard Motors LX101, which is what i use in my Mopars, generally.

Though with the 51 I am converting it to electronic ignition using a /6 distributor, the 4 pin HEI and a Ford TFI coil.

As an experiment,
Posted By: bee1971

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/25/19 11:42 PM

FBO some time ago


For your information the LX101 is made by SMP the same people who previously made our A688 ECU's for us. As of late 2010 they have sent all their manufacturing on these products to China or Mexico and can no longer produce this ECU in the USA to our spec. The old SMP LX101 was made in Kansas, when SMP bought out Borg Warner years ago the LX101 was superseded to the B/W unit which was built from low end imported components and the performance proved it.
Posted By: Sinitro

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/26/19 01:04 AM

Each of the mentioned ECUs (Mopar & aftermarket) have a different timing latency...
To find the right 1 takes some trial and error for setting initial timing and related distributor advance curve depending upon engine vacuum, carburetor, compression ratio, gears..
It is not just a plug & play, unfortunately today many mechanics or techs lack the experience and/or patience...

Just my $0.02... wink
Posted By: RJS

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/26/19 01:05 AM

I've had excellent results with the Rev n nator and coil with a plate in my distributor from FBO.
I've also very happy with the ECU I bought from E Berger with an FBO plate in my distributor.
Ron
Posted By: GregY

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/26/19 01:15 AM

Has anyone tried the Jegs blue ignition control unit?:

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/40805/10002/-1

I am considering it, but I don't need 7,500 rpm either. I might just go with the LX101 for my car, which won't see over 5,500 rpm.
Posted By: KillerBee

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/26/19 01:43 AM

After having some distributor and ignition issues wit the wife's 440 Six Pack Challenger I went with FBO's ECU with RPM limiter, tuned distributor and coil setup.
Not a high RPM race car but a good running street cruiser.
The car has run perfectly for the last 3 years. beer
I also like the ability to bypass the ballast resistor.

Attached picture FBO.jpg
Posted By: 70gtx440dana

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/26/19 03:43 AM

How about a good ol' AC Delco unit:

Link
Link 2
Posted By: NachoRT74

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/27/19 12:59 PM

Originally Posted by GregY
Has anyone tried the Jegs blue ignition control unit?:

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/40805/10002/-1

I am considering it, but I don't need 7,500 rpm either. I might just go with the LX101 for my car, which won't see over 5,500 rpm.



that's the one I mentioned being sold initially by Ricks Erehnbergs on ebay ( HiRev-7500 ) it responded very well on my car for the week I got it while I was waiting for the Rev-N-Nator to be delivered and now is my trunk spare. BUT a friend of mine got it to his Dart and failed after 3 or 4 months.
Posted By: ZIPPY

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/27/19 02:14 PM

Cab we've been talking on these boards for 20 years or more, but I have to admit I don't know how much of a purist you are.
Maybe I'm not too observant LOL.
If you have to have a mopar style ecu then don't read any further.

For non-msd type applications, since giving it a whirl I have become a big fan of the GM HEI module + Ford TFI coil combination,
triggered by a regular Mopar electronic distributor.

I liked it enough to start a thread about it:
click to read thread about ignition

The coil is Std Motor products FD478T or equivalent.
1990 F150 with a 351 would be the application.
The ignition module would be a std motor product LX301 or equivalent.
1979 Corvette 350 would be the application.

Together they will run about $30.

It's no MSD, but it makes a pretty strong spark: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iYv4H26SRs&feature=youtu.be
Posted By: Sniper

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/27/19 02:32 PM

Originally Posted by ZIPPY
Cab we've been talking on these boards for 20 years or more, but I have to admit I don't know how much of a purist you are.
Maybe I'm not too observant LOL.
If you have to have a mopar style ecu then don't read any further.

For non-msd type applications, since giving it a whirl I have become a big fan of the GM HEI module + Ford TFI coil combination,
triggered by a regular Mopar electronic distributor.

I liked it enough to start a thread about it:
click to read thread about ignition

The coil is Std Motor products FD478T or equivalent.
1990 F150 with a 351 would be the application.
The ignition module would be a std motor product LX301 or equivalent.
1979 Corvette 350 would be the application.

Together they will run about $30.

It's no MSD, but it makes a pretty strong spark: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iYv4H26SRs&feature=youtu.be




This is pretty much what I am doing with my 51 Plymouth. I will be building an electronic ignition distributor for it using a /6 distributor as the basis with the rest as you describe. We will see how it goes. I'll be documenting it on my webpage and will post in the project forum.
Posted By: moparx

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/27/19 04:31 PM

Zippy, it's a good thing your battery didn't have any outgassing going on, or you could have seen a big ball of fire instead of a hot spark !
that is NO place to check spark out put ! tsk have you ever seen a battery blow up ?

PLEASE GUYS. DON'T have, or cause HOT SPARKS AROUND BATTERIES !
you were VERY LUCKY this time, but next ?

sorry for the rant, but SAFETY FIRST !

next time, use the intake manifold or head bolt the negative cable attaches to.

rant over.
beer
Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/27/19 06:52 PM

Originally Posted by moparx
Zippy, it's a good thing your battery didn't have any outgassing going on, or you could have seen a big ball of fire instead of a hot spark !
that is NO place to check spark out put ! tsk have you ever seen a battery blow up ?
PLEASE GUYS. DON'T have, or cause HOT SPARKS AROUND BATTERIES !
you were VERY LUCKY this time, but next ?
sorry for the rant, but SAFETY FIRST !
next time, use the intake manifold or head bolt the negative cable attaches to.
rant over.
beer
iagree
I had a Sears Diehard explode in a 1962 Plymouth Fury I use to own, it ruptured the top and spewed acid all over the left side of the engine compartment and on the bottom of the hood, some leaked out onto the front fender also puke
I had stopped for gas and the original alternator regulator was malfunctioning over charging the battery at 30 amps for over a hour. I shut the car off and when I went to restart it, it had flooded some from the heat under the hood, it was in the Mojave desert in mid May and once the motor started to catch it backfire through the carb and the air cleaner inlet tube (it was a later air cleaner for a 1969 C body) was directly over the battery and the fumes form the over charged battery went BOOM shock
I hate Murphy rant
Posted By: Dave_J

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/30/19 08:42 AM

OK, I took my last failed 4 pin ECU and submerged it in boiling water a few times and was able to pry out all of the epoxy potting. Under was a PCB with what Kind of looked like what an HEI module looks like under its plastic. It was embedded in silica sand and epoxy too. Guess what? NO wires going to the 'Transistor' Cap mounted on the aluminum heat sink. There is a plastic sealing ring under the cap but not drilled for wires. Its a dummy.
We got this last one from Autozone. Duralast CR109. "Duralast products are engineered and manufactured by Wells Vehicle Electronics"

Posted on FABO too.
Posted By: kowalski440

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/30/19 10:23 AM

A pic or two would be appreciated?
Posted By: Sniper

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/30/19 02:20 PM

Motorola used to make that power transistor. They don't anymore and there isn't a good replacement. There is a sort of usable substitute (with all the issues noted by others) that you can find occasionally but by now most of the have a dummy cap and surface mounts electronics inside. Problem is they are not adequately heat sunk.
Posted By: Dave_J

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/30/19 06:10 PM

I will try to take pictures of how I do my mod.

I plan on cutting the ECM's tin case under the OEM looking aluminum heat sink and then using some 1/16 inch solid copper sheet to cut out a mount for the GM HEI module that is slightly larger than the cut out in the tin case. I will use two tapered head 8x32 screws to mount that copper sheet to the back of the OEM heat sink with heat sink jelly and fake Trans cap. Then two of the same screws to mount the HEI module with that jelly to the underside of the module to copper sheet.

This should wick away all the heat into the OEM looking aluminum heat sink.
Posted By: TJP

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 11/30/19 06:39 PM

Originally Posted by Dave_J
OK, I took my last failed 4 pin ECU and submerged it in boiling water a few times and was able to pry out all of the epoxy potting. Under was a PCB with what Kind of looked like what an HEI module looks like under its plastic. It was embedded in silica sand and epoxy too. Guess what? NO wires going to the 'Transistor' Cap mounted on the aluminum heat sink. There is a plastic sealing ring under the cap but not drilled for wires. Its a dummy.
We got this last one from Autozone. Duralast CR109. "Duralast products are engineered and manufactured by Wells Vehicle Electronics"

Posted on FABO too.


up eek whistling bow shock LOL
Posted By: Y3 70 BEE

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/01/19 11:16 PM

I used a heat gun to gut a old 70s ECU box. Then put a 4 pin GM module in the box. I epoxied the pins for the factory ECU then soldered wires to the pins and ran the wires to the module. I fitted the module in the Mopar ECU and used one of the transistor mounting screws and drilled a hole for another screw to mount it, use heat sink compound between the module and case. After I got it together I used the Right Stuff rtv to seal the backside of the factory ECU connector were I soldered and epoxied the wires. 2500 miles and works great..
Posted By: Y3 70 BEE

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/01/19 11:31 PM

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/hei-in-mopar-ecu-casing.252705/ This is kind of what I did, but a little neater.

Attached picture HEI.jpg
Posted By: Cuda340

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/02/19 02:24 PM

Originally Posted by Y3 70 BEE


That's cool!!!!
Posted By: Mattax

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/02/19 03:02 PM

Intead of soldering direct, use a terminal on each wire.
That way the HEI module can be changed out easily.
Posted By: Y3 70 BEE

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/02/19 09:32 PM

I used female push on connectors on 3 of 4 terminals and soldered 1 of them. I mounted mine a bit different in the case than that pic, its a tight fit mounting it in the Chrysler ECU. I totally removed the old circuit board, leaving the plastic connector backside and the terminal pins. I hade to epoxy the backside of the plastic connector after soldering the wires to the pins. After the epoxy cured I used the Right Stuff rtv to seal up the back of the plastic connector. The factory ECU case is a good heat sink for the GM module, just use the white paste heat sink compound not the clear silicone paste that some use.
Posted By: Y3 70 BEE

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/03/19 12:05 AM

I call it The Hillbilly Rev a Nator.
Posted By: NachoRT74

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/03/19 12:01 PM

After the A688 FBO module was not anymore available ( due the Standard Motor productions move ), GREAT MODULE BTW, Don began to make the HR688 module, which was found applied the same, hide a HEI module into a Mopar "look a like" housing ( similar to the actual HHR688 ). This was found by a customer member of some of the Mopar boards I'm member when got the HR688 failed. I felt this like a scam or cheat. When my A688 module failed ( somehow under warranty time ) and got offered to be replaced by the HR688 which was available by those days I simply denied to get a fancy box with an HEI Module inside, which I can make by myself with one of the stock module boxes I have and getting the module cheaper at any shop, even locally in Venezuela. Maybe some performance HEI Module, and still cheaper. So simply got a credit from him to get another product ( got custom made pushrods ) to make valid the warranty. This was around 10 years ago.

Then he released the HHR688, which seems to be a nice one and engineered from the begining maybe. He gets a good customer service, nice reference information for tune up and is a nice guy, but that situation really got me shocked.

I still have the damaged A688 module in hands, hoping someday get it fixed ( Maybe by Don itself ), and get it as spare while I'm running the Rev-N-Nator
Posted By: Y3 70 BEE

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/03/19 10:43 PM

I used the cheap Wells module. Never tried the higher priced ones, so I can't say if they are better. I also use a older distributor cap with the ribs in it. So far the cap and rotor have held up well. Those new caps are cheap crap.
Posted By: Dave_J

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/05/19 04:01 AM

Here is my finished unit. I went with a $10 HEI just to see if this works. I may step up to a better HEI module later. Not counting the Autozone failed ECM, I am into this for less than $15. Used 4 pieces of 14 gauge wire, 4 crimp spade ends, a smeer of Heat Sink paste, 1 each 1 inch 8X32 screw, a shot of Rustoluim 2X paint and the the HEI module.

On the fake Transistor cap I had to re-tap the one screw hole for the HEI module's through bolt, the two original screws were metric and I reused only 1. When retapping, only go in far enough for the new screw to be tight. I ran the tap down all the way and had to peen the back side threads a bit

Attached picture Done 1.jpg
Attached picture Done 2.jpg
Posted By: NachoRT74

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/05/19 11:19 AM

Isn't posible to use the plugs for safety isolation whicth chassis ?

[Linked Image]
Posted By: 3hundred

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/05/19 11:48 AM

Originally Posted by NachoRT74
Isn't posible to use the plugs for safety isolation whicth chassis ?

[Linked Image]


It is possible, a GM internal regulator alternator plug works on one side of the HEI module, both are 1/4" spades, on the other side one is 1/4" and one 3/16" spade. The only connector I could find was the pigtail of a GM pickup coil.

Robert
Posted By: Y3 70 BEE

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/05/19 04:41 PM

Originally Posted by Dave_J
Here is my finished unit. I went with a $10 HEI just to see if this works. I may step up to a better HEI module later. Not counting the Autozone failed ECM, I am into this for less than $15. Used 4 pieces of 14 gauge wire, 4 crimp spade ends, a smeer of Heat Sink paste, 1 each 1 inch 8X32 screw, a shot of Rustoluim 2X paint and the the HEI module.

On the fake Transistor cap I had to re-tap the one screw hole for the HEI module's through bolt, the two original screws were metric and I reused only 1. When retapping, only go in far enough for the new screw to be tight. I ran the tap down all the way and had to peen the back side threads a bit
Same thing I did but I did drill a hole for the second mounting screw for the gm module. The module gets grounded thru those screws. I just ground down the screw and used some black paint to hide the screw from the front.
Posted By: Y3 70 BEE

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/05/19 07:20 PM

Here are 2 different 4 pin modules and they ground thru the hole on the right. Not sure if all ground like that but I cut open a 1970s AcDelco module and it only grounded thru the one bolt hole. I would put a screw in that empty hole on yours.

Attached picture f1bf69f6-4e6a-43b1-8962-089bfd62e94a_1.4a04ebd722cfa75a1826e4dba838b3a2.jpg
Attached picture 35361.jpg
Posted By: Sniper

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/05/19 08:42 PM

Originally Posted by NachoRT74
Isn't posible to use the plugs for safety isolation whicth chassis ?



Be easier to use heat shrink over the spade terminals than try to fit two big plastic housings in there I would think.
Posted By: moparx

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/05/19 09:55 PM

Originally Posted by Sniper
Originally Posted by NachoRT74
Isn't posible to use the plugs for safety isolation whicth chassis ?



Be easier to use heat shrink over the spade terminals than try to fit two big plastic housings in there I would think.


way better with the heat shrink. overcrowding with using the connectors will affect wire routing.
beer
Posted By: Dave_J

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/05/19 09:56 PM

Originally Posted by Y3 70 BEE
Here are 2 different 4 pin modules and they ground thru the hole on the right. Not sure if all ground like that but I cut open a 1970s AcDelco module and it only grounded thru the one bolt hole. I would put a screw in that empty hole on yours.

When you flip the HEI module over it has an aluminum pad and both those holes are swedged. I will check it with my Fluke VOM to see.
But I may put a copper strap between the two bolt holes as a "Just Because".

I could drill thru the steel of the OEM ECU and TIG weld a Stainless machine tapered head screw on and then fine grind the head on the front. Once its painted you'd never know.
IF I were building these to sell, that is what I'd do. The vendor "WELLS" that is making these for Autozone and NAPA should copy this mod for all the units they sell. I'd bet their failure return rate would drop.
Posted By: Dave_J

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/05/19 10:24 PM

These are the Cheap RockAuto $10 HEI modules. Others may be different. The two brass hollow rivets are swedged and have the same OHM reading to the alumiumn plate on the bottom (Pic 2). I also ground off the two plastic locating dowel pins on the bottom so it sets flat to the ECU. There is real Heat Sink paste under this module.

The screw on the ECU's empty hole is a good ground to the fake Transistor cap and then the second screw through to the HEI module is grounded well too. Just make sure the OEM ECU is grounded well.

Attached picture Cheap HEI Front.jpg
Attached picture Cheap HEI Rear.jpg
Posted By: Y3 70 BEE

Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car? - 12/05/19 11:33 PM

Just drill a hole and grind down the exposed screw end and add a dab of paint.

Attached picture WP_20190406_16_31_08_Pro.jpg
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