Losing power to coil “start” and “run”

Need some help...

I have POINTS IGNITION

I’m trying to make a
Simple starting circuit with a ‘71 barracuda wiring harness in my ‘73 barracuda. I have factory key and ignition switch.

I’m using a two pin ballast resistor.
I have a new neutral safety switch and new safety switch harness
I am using an aftermarket shifter.

This is what I have done

On the outside of the firewall at the “start” terminal in the bulkhead, I have a wire going to the “start” terminal on my starting solenoid.

In the “run” terminal on firewall side of the bulkhead , I have a wire going into the ballast resistor, Then out of the ballast resistor to + pole on the coil.

This is what’s happening ;

I have power to coil in “run” mode but when I roll the key forward to “start” it cuts power to the coil. It will turn over fine but it won’t fire. At this point I have no spark

But with the key In “run” position I can use an external starting button on the solenoid and it will crank and run

I have a new harness for the neutral safety switch and a new switch in the trans. I’m missing something. Maybe it’s not getting ground.
Is there supposed to be a wire at my shifter that grounds the system in park?

Thanks !

It has nothing to do with the neutral safety switch. Check your ballast resistor and the Ignition switch wires. There are two wires from the Ignition that feed the coil. One is for the run position and the other is for the start circuit. Do a search on here for starting ignition issues. This problem has been discussed here many times. If the engine turns over then the Trans switch and wiring are working fine.

I’ll try the search. Thank you !

But as I was sitting here looking through these wiring diagrams for the millionth time trying to find the end round , it occurred to me that there should be two wires to the coil For run and start just as you said.

Thanks again.

the run circuit cuts off in start mode, that is normal.

You need to run another line from the start terminal to teh other side of the ballast to bypass it and put full battery voltage at the coil + in start only.

Then it will work

Ok. I do understand I was missing that component.

However, what’s happening is when I turn the key to start it cuts power so there is no power coming from the dash side. Using a test light I have power coming through the bulkhead at the “run” and “start” terminal. With the key in “start” position, the engine turns over just fine but using the test light it shows there is NO power through the bulkhead at either “run” or “start” terminals.

Could I have missed something on the dash side ?

looks like it goes thru the bulkhead to the ignition switch in start, you have three lines. Ignition 1 (run to ballast), ignition 2 (start to coil) and start (starter relay).

Ignition 2 is missing. It could be the ignition switch, the connector at the column, the bulkhead fitting or the wiring running between these points.

How much of this is factory wiring and how much is what you added in?

I’m beginning to think there’s a bad connection or I’m missing a ground somewhere.

The whole dash harness is factory. I replaced the harness inside the column including the Key switch and signal switch. I also replaced the harness for the neutral safety switch and the neutral safety switch itself.

The only thing I added in the start circuit are the wires at the bulkhead in the engine bay going to the coil and start terminal to the starter solenoid. The wire I have going from the “start” terminal at the bulkhead to “s” on my starting solenoid is wrong because the wire I have coming from the bulkhead at the “start” terminal should go to the coil. Right ?

Do you have the FSM?

If not here's where you can get an electronic copy

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

I have to go to jury duty in a few minutes.

is not a ground problem. Check power at 23 in the diagram with the key in the run position.

I do have a service manual with all the wiring diagrams and I have been over and over them bc I have had to rewrite the whole
Car. My biggest problem is I get confused when I try to modify an electrical circuit.

I’ll check out the link you sent, though.

(1) The ST terminal on the ign switch goes out to the yellow wire (ign) terminal on the starter relay for cranking. (2) Seperately the brown wire (ign2) circuit goes from the ign switch out directly to the coil positive primary terminal for full voltage starting. (3) You have the blue wire (ign1) "run" circuit correct from the ign switch out to the upstream side of the ballast resistor for reduced voltage when running.

Yes, this is the diagram I am using. I have a wire connected at position 22 “run” to the coil and position 23 “start” to the “s” terminal on my starter solenoid. But I now believe that’s wrong.

Also, I have disconnected the wires I put at 22 and 23 and I am still getting the same result. Something before the bulkhead is killing power because lying under the dash, I have my test light in the 23 terminal on the inside of the car and when I roll the key to start I lose power.

Ok. I’ll have to go back over it when I get home. I recall making the correct connections but there’s no telling. I have been working on this car for three years and I have forgotten what I have and have not done.

Nyet!

Sniper and Rapid Robert have both tried to explain that the Ignition 2 wiring is needed.
I'll try to describe it differently.

At the key switch
Key in RUN: Connection is made from the feed in to the IGNITION 1 (RUN) and ACCESSORY circuits.
Key in START. Connection is made from the feed to the STARTER relay, and IGNITION 2 circuits.

The car needs the Ignition 2 wire.
When the starter is cranking, battery voltage drops, so the resistor is bypassed.
Schematically its like this::

'73 B-body wiring diagram indicated Ignition 2 wire goes from cavity 22 to the the ballast resistor. On the diagram its labeled J3.
There it is crimped to the same terminal as wire (J3A) which goes to the coil positive.

If you still have the original, it could be used.

It should look something like this under the connector at the ballast - except on a '73 the diagram indicates both wires brown (J3 and J3A).
On earlier cars, the wire to the coil is dark blue. I don't which year the color was changed.

On 70 due the new brand new blue wire running to alt field. So coil wire between ballast and coil was matched to the brown coming from ign switch and save from get confused both blue wires

Thank you! And everyone else who helped. I got it and it was as easy as you guys explained it I am easily confused and especially by myself.