American Autowire install update.

I am nearing completion on installing an American Autowire classic update wiring harness kit in a 1971 Road Runner. So far, the kit has been reasonably easy to work with, if you don't mind making up your own harnesses and soldering all the ends on. They give you PLENTY of wire to work with and, for the most part, the instructions/schematics are pretty easy to follow. The wire itself is very nice quality, and every wire is printed with the circuit it goes to. Some of the upgrades they want you to do, really do not make any sense (like that starter relay fiasco I asked about in another post.) Since this is an upgrade kit, they do not cover EVERY single option that could be on the car from the factory, but all in all they do a darn good job. The combo fuse box/bulkhead connectors are pretty sweet, with the bulkhead connector and the fuse box coming pre-wired. The kit came complete with ALL the fuses, connectors and plugs, nicely packaged in individually marked bags with the wires you would need for that circuit. NO BUTT CONNECTORS! YA! The only thing they did not include was heat shrink tubing. Being old school, I like to solder and heat shrink most every connection.
This is the first major COMPLETE wiring job I have done in over 20 years, so I did have some questions, mostly due to my memory lapses. If any of you are thinking about using one of their kits, I would highly recommend it. Anyone else out there thinking about doing a re-wire, feel free to ask any me questions you may have. I do not check my PMs as often as I should but will try to keep up to date. Thanks to everyone that has answered my questions on this project.

I should add that I still have the dome light wiring, radio and under dash light wiring to complete yet as well as owner needs to get me a radio that actually works and the rim blow wheel he sent with the car needs to be rebuilt as well. This is where it stands as of earlier today. All the outside lighting functions and best of all.... IT RUNS!!

Good job, I just rewired my 51 Cambridge using Speedway's 22 circuit kit. Like you I also soldered and heat shurnk everything. This is my personal ride and I don;t want to do it it again.

I'm doing the same thing right now with a Ron Francis kit in my Dart Sport. The problem with most of these kits is that for the most part they were designed for GM, and modified to be used on a Mope or Ford. So you have to make up a lot of your own plugs and when you are doing the charging system and ignition you have to refer to your own knowledge.

I rewired my '55 Plymouth wagon with an American Autowire kit and was very pleased with it.

I would love to hear any tips and tricks on making the harnesses.
Measuring the correct length, looming, routing, documenting the wiring, and such.
Also, what crimpers you are using?

Been wiring a friends car with the Ron Francis kit, and it came with a few rolls of Techflex braided sleeving for the looms.
Been using double wall 3:1 heat shrink on the ends of the sleeving, but had to use electrical tape in a "T" branch, just no way to heat shrink it, like a "Y" branch.
I have been using the MSD ratcheting crimpers with the changeable dies. Spent more on the different dies than the tool, but it does make nice crimps.

Posted this before, but its a good read

https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html

For the "T" they have that liquid tape stuff
for eg.. https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-07315001126-LTB-400-Electrical/dp/B000FPAN2K

i like the MSD crimpers as well, but i have 6 or 8 others i use depending on the circumstances. the ones that come with the eleventybillion piece connector kit from elcheapistan need to go directly to the trash can. in fact, just don't buy that kit to start with !
i also use marine grade heat shrink. it has the glue inside that makes the connection moisture proof.

...

I have used that liquid tape stuff where I had to tap into the wiring harness on my 5.9L Cummins when I installed the SuperChips Digital Propane Injection system. There was just no room to get in there to tape the connection after soldering the wire tap.

Those molded "T" heat shrink look interesting, Might have to see how expensive they are, but likely overkill for what we are doing on the car.

The Double wall heat shrink is the heat shrink with the glue inside. I didn't know it was refered to as Marine grade, but I do know Marine grade wire is flame retardant and the copper wire is tinned to resist corrosion.

I have other lower priced crimpers too, but the MSD one does the best job. The MSD crimpers are the most expensive ones I have. I know there are others out there that are much more expensive, but I'm not wiring an airplane or rocket either.

I have an OLD pair of crimper's that I have had forever. Do not laugh, but I also use a pair of needle-nose pliers to do some of my crimping, depending on the connector. The pliers and crimper work well enough, since I solder and heat shrink everything anyway.

That looks fantastic and I have heard good things about American autowire. It looks daunting but a lot of it comes down to not rushing and patience.

Those "T" or "Y" heat shrinks can not be for wiring. No way to twist/join/solder a joint AFTER those are installed and no way to do it before hand then get the heat shrink over a soldered joint.

Here is shot of those antique crimper's I mentioned earlier. Seem to work pretty well for most of what I needed.

what i have found to be the most trouble using crimping pliers, guys don't position the pliers correctly on the terminial to be crimped, thus causing a loose, or deformed terminal.
the "tube" has lots of videos of proper use of crimping pliers.
i suggest watching, then get some scraps of wire and waste some terminals until you can produce proper crimps.

Is this kit specific to your year and model car?

Does it resolve the problems with Mopar wiring like the bulkhead connection at the firewall and full battery load through the amp meter?

Love the idea of labelled wires!

It was the 71-74 B body update harness. and yes it does correct the issues with the amp gauge and the bulkhead connector as well as updating to the newer spade type fuses. It is a very nice, flexible kit. Made to accommodate any options you may have or desire.

https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/mh510691