727 kickdown cable

Has anyone used this cable setup? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-M...down-Cable-Flexible-Detent-/192270095259

Same junk as the Lokar with a different name.

lokar is a ripoff and this is a cheaper

Lokar copy. Can't tell the quality from the picture, but there is not much to either setup.

I'm not sure if they are the same as the ones that you linked to, but I put a "non-Lokar" set of throttle and trans cables on my Super Bee a few years ago when I converted the engine to EFI and the fuel rails were in the way of the stock linkage.

The parts in the kit looked almost exactly like the Lokar ones, but the quality of everything included was terrible. The braided line was very cheap feeling and flimsy, and the attaching hardware had the nasty habit of popping off when I was driving.

I replaced with Lokar pieces, and have been fine ever since. The quality of the Lokar parts isn't anything amazing, but its a heck of a lot nicer than the stuff I used and has held up for the last five or so years for me.

With that said, using a cable for the trans pressure linkage is a whole other topic here, so make sure that you that this isnt a "plug and play" kind of swap.

It will be cable to control kickdown for a 440 in a dart.it will be a plug in play swap.

I've been told by Dave Smith at Pro trans to only use the Buchillion(SP?) brand only for all Mopar automatic cable kick down conversions

I've had their setup in my Charger since 2001 with no problems.

there more money then a lokar is,there probably full of it,just tryin to sell there product.

????
THe Lokar is a cheap looking setup. The Bouchillon kit is superior.

gearhead setup is cheaper and will work lol

The last Bouchillon cable set I saw looked like a 10 speed bicycle cable. I hope they have made improvements.

I like the Lokar stuff. Throw their instructions away and mount them up how you want.

I question your motives here. Your initial post was asking if anyone used this kit, imply you hadn't and wanted some input.

Then you claim "gearhead setup is cheaper and will work lol " and work to put down anything else mentioned, even when recommended by acknowledged experts in relevant fields.

How do you know?

Have you used the gearhead one?

Remember, the length of travel for the carb throttle attachment point is not necessarily the same as the transmission lever. You will need to adjust the attachment point of one side or the other to correct this. Its not hard, but takes some time.

Just trying to give the heads up in case you haven't used a cable before.

thanks for the info

Look at the Gearhead kit and compare it to the Lokar kit.....same same. Both junk.

Glad i'll be using junk😂😂

i won't bother with a response...................

You can lead a horse to water but................

its a lokar knock off. i have found by friends cheaping out buying them that the quality is nowhere near lokar quality. they look the same but are not the same.. been running lokar kickdown on multiple mopars for 20+ years and have never had any issue with it. some apparently don't know how to install it properly.

i think the lokar set up is much cleaner looking then the bulky and ugly BPE kits..

Won't stop the questions when he can;t get it to work.

Prefer the 3 piece factory rod setup over a cable.this is a back-up plan

please go to your back up plan now. you will be much happier.

These people lokar who say are better.your just payin for the named brand that says lokar.compared to gearhead that isnt named brand cable.

Read the reviews on their Facebook page. To sum up for those without Facebook, 1.5 out of 5 possible stars.

Reviews and I just list them all, ni cherry picking.

1. has never sent correct parts or tried to make it right .ive tried to contact them and have never heard back,has 600 dollars of my money.

2. Staff are rude and hurl insults. They're more interested in arguing with customers than providing good customer service. There's an endless supply of other companies to use if you want parts.

3. This company is worthless! If I could put 0 stars I would. Very very poor customer service. I bought a set of air horns and tested them the same day and they didn’t work they squeak at best! That was a month ago. It is still not resolved! Brooke in the office has the worst attitude and will not try to help you, she even hung up on me. I look forward to renting a spot at the car show next to them next year. Notify everyone that looks at stuff to read these reviews before they purchase.

4. These are the worst people to deal with. Office person Brooke is the rudest person ever! Made an order online and then decided to cancel. Called and cancelled before it was charged and sent out. 2 days later they charged my account and then 2 days after that sent the item! Now playing hell to get a refund and s return label. I'm sure that there are plenty other companies to deal with

5. Very bad customer service. I had bought a pulley and belt kit. The belt didn't fit their pulleys. Their solution was for me to buy another belt from them. Refused to switch the wrong belt for the correct belt. Couldn't ever get the owner on the phone to discuss the situation.

6. would never order anything from them again, ordered a set of headers,found I could not use before they arrived,called and told them,they said too bad, cost me $45 to send back with restock fee , they only cost $109, never opened box, terrible customer service, never a restock fee at Yogis

7. Fire Brooke in the office. Extremely rude and when asked to put on someone diferent she refused. Purchae an item off their webiste, waited a week with no debit and no shipment notification. Found the part elsewhere and called to cancel the order. She was rude and full of attitude. Promised to call back but never did. Two days later, the charge came thought my account. I called her and after lenghty conversation, again full of attitude and claims of "I can't do anything, it has to be management", she called back and said the ordered was stopped and I could expect a refund. Two more days later, no refund and the part arrived. Called her again and she blamed management.... EXTREMELY poor customer service. I too can't wait to visit their booth at the next show. We will see how long this drags on.

8. We build hotrods for a living and ill never buy from them again!

9. Pull your heads out and stop being rude to the customers that keep you in business.


BBB rates them an F.

HAMB's input BEWARE!

Can't see why OP is so enamored of them.

He must be one of the five people that recommend them.

Maybe he IS them.

bunch of followers on that don't anything about cable.

LOL,,The Bouchillon cable is an OEM Mopar cable !!!! & is the proper set up .

Why did you ask the question if you already know everything about the gearhead cable? I literally bought a cheap cable, and, due to the low quality, replaced it with a Lokar.

Why be a troll to a bunch of people that are trying to help?

People like that only want their decision to be validated.

i got other people sayin on a different site sayin gearhead is a good cable and no problems with it.

Well, it is like I wrote....You are just looking for validation of your own decision, not actual guidance.

You also got people on this site saying Lokar is a "good cable" and no problems with it. Amazing what some folks call "good".

I used Lokar and the only thing I can say about it is that it is usable with some adapting.

"some" being a generous description.

Sir, I respect your opinion because over the years of frequenting this site I have had the luxury of reading your always informative posts...HOWEVER...what exactly is the problem with calling the Lokar setup "good"?

Here is my point: I have both, initially bought the el'cheapo knock-off stuff, installed it and found it refreshingly adjustable. This I thought was a real gem. Some years later I picked up a genuine Lokar for a great price. Their product is of higher quality, specifically the steel line is thicker, the sleeve is bulkier and appears to be better made. But inherently it only offers the same level of adjustments that the cheaper knock-off do.

So as far as what works and what does not, and specifically the workability of the Lokar/knock-offs for our Mopar purposes, I am entirely with abodyjoe on this. It works, but make sure you understand how the transmission linkage needs to work, all of it!

Why would you just slap the thing on??? Heck, doesn't working on our rides (just about any parts of 'em) require you to really try to understand the basic principles first and only then tailor the solution to your needs?

So I'm back to my question: why is the Lokar product not "good"? How does it prevent the proper operation of the kickdown lever?

That's the problem, most don't; perusing the posts on this board (and others) shows a decided lack of understanding of the function of the "kickdown" linkage/cable. Plus, the design and instructions of the Lokar (and its clones) don't assure a successful installation.

Many who claim to have used the Lokar as intended merely tolerate the shortcomings of it or don't know any better.



Here's my often repeated rant:


The problem with the Lokar is that it's generic even when advertised to fit a Mopar because of the different lengths of the transmission lever.

If the generic Lokar instructions are followed and the cable adjusted so that the trans lever is full back at carb WOT you can see (simple math) that the first portion of the lever travel is already used up at idle and there's no spring to pull the lever forward.

It's not unusual to see these Lokar installations have light throttle 1-2 shifts at 25+ mph and 2-3 at 40+ mph or even higher and, possibly, no 2-3 upshift at all. If the cable is adjusted for correct light throttle shift points there is insufficient TP at WOT and no forced downshifts. Potential damage.

So, as I've repeatedly ranted, the Lokar works OK if the installer ignores the Lokar adjustment procedure and knows to match the total travel of the cable attach points and installs a spring.

You need to measure the full travel of the carb lever where the cable attaches and then measure the full travel of the transmission lever where the cable attaches; it usually won't be the same so you need to drill a new hole in the transmission lever so that the full travel of both levers is the same. Also, there should be a spring pulling the transmission lever forward.

It isn't necessary for the trans lever to be full back at WOT but be sure that WOT under the hood is the same as WOT at the pedal...misadjusted throttle linkage will prevent the carb from going wide open when the pedal is matted and that, in turn, will prevent the trans lever from going back enough to provide kickdown.

Remove the cable from the carb and measure how far the hole in the throttle lever moves from idle to WOT. Then measure how far the hole in the trans lever moves from full forward to full back. The movement of the trans lever will likely be more than the carb lever so find the spot on the trans lever that matches the travel of the carb lever and drill there.

It's unlikely that the trans lever will return to the full forward position without a spring assist.

Yes, totally agree. In my experience I had to literally work out these two things: the total travel at carb and the match to the trans lever (which required re-locating the mounting hole on the lever itself), as well as making provisions for introducing a return spring setup at the trans (which I managed to do by hooking up to a left-over bracket from the original rod setup - I also converted to a B&M cable shifted setup, so that freed up some room).

Anyone who's ever considered this approach or is contemplating it, absolutely save these instructions...perfect way to summarize all the different pieces that you need to account for.

The one thing I have always wondered is whether the original Mopar linkage was a non-linear linkage (due to the bell-crank travel), because the Lokar can only be linear: whatever movement happens at the carb translates to a matching distance travelled at the kickdown lever. The implication there being that the trans pressure is adjusted at different rate at lower throttle openning than at the time you dig deeper into the throttle. I do not think this is the case, but I simply do not know enough about the design of the Torqueflite hydraulic control system to know.

Thank you, very well written, appreciate the informative response!

Thanks John, that was very helpful as I am currently going this route with my A100.