Electric Fuel Pumps- couple of questions

Thinking of going to an electric fuel pump on my Charger. 440, .030 over, mild cam, Eddy 800 CFM, headers. Been reading thru some other threads. Looking for clarification.
Should I be looking for GPH or fuel pressure?
Do I need to also buy a regulator?
Do I need a return line?
Looks like I would also need a relay kit with the unit.
I am looking for an in-line unit.
Any recommendations on units that you are using would be great.

Lots of other information needed to give you a correct answer on exactly what you will need to for your current needs and future needs.
I've been through this more than once, several times the wrong way
If your planning on using the electric only then buy a good one, not a cheap one
I like and use Magna fuel pumps for street and race only, but none of my motors make less than 500 HP also
Holley, Edelbrock ,Aeromotive, Magnafuel and several other company make decent street and strip pumps, NOT Aerospace though
As far as a regulator if your wanting more than 6.5 lbs. pressure then you will probably need a regulator, you can turn up the pressure to increase the volume also, correct
Bottom line is how much money, power and how long do you do you want the pump to take care of your needs for
Pressure and volume need to be look at together also, not alone
My last pump gas go half fast (10.00 ET at 134.8 MPH through the full 3.0 inch exhaust system on pump fuel weighing 3450 Lbs. with me in the car) had a Magnafuel Pro Star 275 pump and a Magnafuel 4 port regulator with a #10 AN inch pick up in the gas tank with a 1/2 inch I.D. line from the pump up to the reg. mounted in front of the motor with 3 #6 AN lines to the six pack carbs.
There was a 100 micron fuel filter mounted between the tank and pump and another 10 micron fuel filter used between the pump and the and the regulator, I could fatten up those carbs enough to slow the MPH down in the 1/4 mile so it flowed more than enough volume to meet my needs
My new race car has a Magnafuel 500 pump on it with a #12 AN line from the tank to the pump and on up to the 4 port regulator, this motor should make north of 1000 HP N/A with two Dominator carbs
A good EFI system is on my short list also
Take your time to get it right the first time so you won't have to do it again later
Good luck

Why do you think you need an electric pump? Are you having fuel problems? Is this a strip/street car? Back in the day (I am talking 1971) we added a carter electric pump to feed the mechanical with stock 5/16 lines. It was self regulated to 7psi worked great. The current so called state of the art carb systems use pumps that put out 2'0 plus psi through -8 or -10 lines with a return system regulated down to 3 or 4 psi. I have a friend that ran low 10's with a Max wedge 4sp car and only ran 2 carters and 3/8 line up until a couple years ago. He went to a big pump and -8 lines in a dead head system and picked up nada. So what do you think you need?

I ran a mechanical pump on my 500 until I went with the Dominator carb. The key is the right pump and a free flowing fuel system. An electric pump can't overcome a restrictive system. A mild 440 shouldn't 'need' an electric pump.

For what you have, I would run a Holley red pump w no regulator or return.. I agree I don’t think you need an electric pump, but I understand it s a matter of preference. I run a carter mechanical with no regulator and it feeds a 575-600hp stroker. I haven’t raced it, but it works perfectly and has no fuel delivery issues stomping on it on the streets and highways.

i'm in need of an electric pump as well, as i had to remove the mechanical pump due to the low mount alternator and AC pump bracketry.
my charger, 4k lbs, new stainless tank, roughly 550hp 440. has 3/8" line now.
plans for the future call for EFI, most likely a holley sniper system.
any recommendations for me ?
trying not to jack this post.

I talk to people all the time who have chronic vapor lock issues with mechanical pumps.

A lot of this is due to how fuel is blended nowadays.

I think an electric pump is just part of keeping up with the changing times.

I have been chasing a problem with the motor laying over when the secondaries kick in. At first I thought it was spark. Adjusted the timing every which way, triple checked TDC and plug order. I have a Firecore RTR system in both my 440 Chargers. i swapped the distributor and coils, same issue. I didn't try swapping the engine harness.

I'm running a Eddy 800 CFM Thunder series. I swapped carbs with a buddy who has a 750 CFM Eddy. Same issue.

Swapped fuel pumps, same issue. Thought that I had a restriction between the tank and the pump so I mounted a two gallon gas can in front of the radiator and ran a hose from that, same issue. My mechanic buddy said maybe the hoses between the fuel pump and carb are collapsing, replaced both, same issue.

Installed a fuel pressure gauge and taped it to my windshield. While accelerating the pressure bounces around between 5.5 and 7. Smooths out a bit around 50 mph. Then when I press the pedal and the secondaries start to open she starts to sputter and then when I stab the pedal she just lays over and the pressure fluxuates between 2-7. If I keep the car in second gear it will still do the same thing.

I checked the fuel pump push rod, a Comp Cam rod. I had bought a NOS rod off a board member here. The NOS unit was maybe a 1/16" longer than the comp Cam rod so I install the NOS unit. It seemed like I was able to pick up a few mph's before she would lay over, but at this point I may just be fooling myself.

I have a video of the fuel pressure test run that I sent to an Mopar buddy who is also an engineer. He thinks I might be getting too much fuel.

I think I should pull the carb and disable the secondaries and then test the car. If i can get to almost full throttle or be able to stab the gas without getting a bog I would think that means lack of fuel. If I still get a bog then maybe try a fuel pressure regulator.

Your buddy is misleading you and him by saying to much volume or pressure is causing your problem, If it had to much of either it would flood over out of the carb. and die and be hard to start, if it would start
What color are your spark plugs? White, brown or black? If black it is to rich so it needs leaning down on the mixture, you can do that with the metering rods( you may need to change the primary jet if you can't get it right with the rod changing) and changing the accelerator pump squirter sizes also
Good luck
The AVS carbs are a different type of carb and tuning the secondary part can be challenging, you said the 750 did the same so it may be time to focus on fixing that problem, start by making sure the secondary air door (the big one covering the rear of the carb that is spring loaded) opens properly

Cab.
Plugs are a light brown. I forgot to mention I have played with the carb. I've adjusted the air door both ways, bought a carb tuning kit and have tried numerous combinations of metering rods, jets, adjusting the setting on the accelerator pump. none of the changes have made a bit of difference. If it had made even a slight difference, good or bad at least I would know I'm on the correct path.
That carb has been off and on more than a prom dress.

I would try tightening the air door tighter until it doesn't bog anymore when it opens

I will try that tomorrow.
I did disconnect the secondaries and took a ride. Usually around 55-60% throttle is where the bog/lay over starts. Got to 80% throttle before it started this time.

Another weird thing that it always does. When taking a left hand corner there is a skip or miss in the motor like the fuel supply was pinched. Just one skip, not a series of them.

This. A vapor separator setup may help with the mechanical setup.

I’m just gonna throw this out there......

Maybe you already mentioned it....... but have you tried a Holley carb on it?

Possibly a friend has a known good working one you can just stick on and try.

Sounds like you’d be able to tell pretty quickly if it offered any improvement or not.

In my mind, if you tried the “hose in the gas can” thing where you bypassed the rest of the cars fuel line, and the fuel pressure on the gauge was still jumping all around, that sure sounds like a fuel pump problem to me.
“New” doesn’t necessarily mean “good”.
I don’t see how the gauge could jump back and forth from 7psi back down to 2psi unless the check valve in the pump is faulty/stick/leaking.
If the pump you have is of the “high performance” variety, some of those have 6 valves....... and any one of them could be leaking.

I assume you’ve pulled the top off the carb and verified the float height and float drop are correct.

I have swapped out the fuel pump, same issue.
Carb has been apart several times. The first time I took it apart I did have to fix one of the floats.
My other 440 Charger has a Proform 750, basically a Holley knock off. I've been hesitant to install it on this car since that will require more work and just borrowing my friends Edelbrock since this car is already set up for an Eddy carb. I also tried an Edelbrock performer 625 CFM on this car last year and had the same issues but thought that some of it could have been attributed to the carb being to small for the motor.

http://blog.cantonracingproducts.com/blog/how_to_estimate_your_engines_fuel_flow

Just outa curiosity, did you try running it without a air cleaner? It does sound like a pump issue though. Edelbrocks does not like more than 5.5 psi of fuel pressure, the floats do not have near the leverage of a Holley style. I have always had better longevity out of Carter pumps than Holly's. Also, is your tank properly vented?

Does the car with the Proform carb have a mechanical pump?
Does it have a gauge(or can you put one on to check)?

If so........ does the needle do the same thing on that car?

Imo, the large/rapid pressure swings point to a faulty pump.
The net is full of stories like this, and many times after the problem has been solved(new fuel pump), the fluctuations are either totally gone, or are minimal.

If you install the gauge on the other car, and it reads steady....... then I guess it’ll come down to how bad you want to find the source of the issue.
You could pull the “known good” pump off that car, install it on the problem car and see what happens.
You could also install the new pump on the other car with the Proform carb and see if you have the same symptoms.

I agree. I have a vapor separator set up on my car and have never had vapor lock issues. Mine came equipped from the factory tho.

That's what I would do. I always run an electric pump on my street/strip cars. And I ran the Holley red pump o my Dart for many years from 1997 to 2018. Has internal regulation as Tony says so it needs no ext regulator or return line. I also ran one on my my 63 from 2006 until 2011 as I updated to the Black pump and external regulator when I put my 493 in my car. I prefer the electric pump all day over a mech on my cars as that way I can keep the fuel line away from the eng and the electric pump helps fight vapor lock. Good luck with yours. Ron

Have tried it with out air cleaner.
There is a vent at the top of the filler neck. I also tried it with the gas cap wide open.
The 440 Proform Charger has a mechanical fuel pump. I have never put a fuel pressure gauge on it since it runs great.
I have used two different fuel pumps with the same results. As I mentioned earlier, when I take a left turn, not like turning onto a side street but a gradual turn there is a skip or miss like there was an air bubble in the line. doesn't matter if the tank is full or near empty.
Also this engine has never seemed to run as smooth as the other Charger. Both engines built by the same guy.