High beam switch and other issue 69 charger

I wired up the forward harness on 69 Charger Daytona today,fresh car,here's my issues.
I have low beams just fine but I hit the switch on the floor and the low beam goes out pass side,never a high beam yet on pass side but works great on drivers,Hit the switch and the low beam comes back,but never a high beam on pass side.I havnt bought a dimmer switch with my job it will be late in week before I can get a replacement if I go that route.What would cause this??All 4 lights are new Wagners.
Next issue is I have no turn signal indication on the dash or out to the lights,no noise from the flasher or at the rear of car,nor brake lights.Where would you start with that?Don't expect anybody to write a book about it just looking for some advice thanks!!

I do have partk lights and rear taillights

it could be the switch, but it could just as easly be a ground issue.

since you say it is a fresh car, how will is the body grounded?
have you chased all the screws and bolts to clean metal?
I would consider starting with direct grounds first to see if it lights up before swaping components.

Did you verify the high beam work in the pass side light? Might be burned out. Best I recall the dimmer switch dims both, so if one works it isn't the switch, that splits off in the harness not in the switch..

New bulbs can be bad.

Easy enough to test.

If the bulb is good, look elsewhere.

The switch is easy to test and bypass

Thanks guys,Andrew you mean try a ground direct ground from the on the headlight gr spade the non functioning high beam,to the chassis? I am a expert in complicating things,first off I'm no electronics expert.If your a 68-9 B body guy I'll try to state what I have.
I should have great grounds I assume? The harness has one chassis ground on each side for each set of headlights ,drivers side that both hi/low functions work is great,I even tried a test ground wire from pass side harness chassis ground wire to the drivers side and even the negative side of battery still nothing.I guess I need to test the light itself on other side.
I don't mind looking stupid been building stuff for 25 years mostly no problems but why in God's name can I not remove the headlight p!ugs from the headlights?They snapped right on but now I can't get them off??
What would kill that pass.side low beam by putting the dimmer switch on high beam?
Supercuda I'll try to get the drivers hi beam to the pass side hopefully one night this week.
I'm still lost on the whole turn signal/flasher situation need to start checking powder supplies to different things I have a LED test light that just died today so need to find a diode bulb for that with 12 hr days I am scatterbrained but very much appreciate comments thanks!

When you switch the dimmer switch from low beam to high beam, there no longer is power to the low beam side of the headlight, that power is switched to the high beam circuit.

If either the high beam or the low beam headlight lights up, the ground is OK, both the high beam and the low beam parts of the same side headlight are grounded through the same ground wire. Each side of the car has its own ground wire. If it is a poor ground, the high beam may not be very bright, buy most of the time it will still light up.

Both the turn signals and the 4 way flashers have their own separate fuses in the fuse box. Be sure those fuses are good. From the fuse, the power goes to the flasher units, then both circuits go to the turn signal switch. From the turn signal switch, each turn/flasher light is powered individually. After the turn switch, both the turn and the flasher use the same power wire for each individual light. There are 3 wires to each individual turn light socket. One wire is for turn/4 way flasher (and rear brake light), one wire is for parking lights, and the 3rd wire is for the ground. Each light has to have a good ground to bare metal. Gene

Poorboy that is the info I needed man appreciate it!!!!The front park/turn lamps have three on one and two on the pass side I assumed the drivers three wire connector piggy backed one wire to the other side for park lights these are 69 Valiant park lamps Daytona nose and they have there own chassis ground which I have nice bright park lights but I'll start checking into these things calling for rain so I might be home some this week thanks!!

If the passenger side light only has 2 wires, it is likely grounding through the light housing. One of the 2 wires will be for turn/flasher and the other wire will be for the parking light, its possible the 3rd wire does feed the passenger side park light, but it should be connected to one of the other wires in that socket.
If your parking lights are real bright, it may be possible you are connected to the turn signal terminal on the light socket. Always, the turn lights are brighter then the parking lights. Gene

The park lights are the normal brightness for park lamps not turn,I've never see a 69/70 mopar that didn't have there on drivers,two on pass.
So even if the pass side high beam lamp is bad shouldn't I still get power to the low beam even though high beam powers both on its own circuit during high beam function?
I need to do more investigation.
Also why can't I remove the headlight plugs from the headlights ok pulling HARD but not hard enough to screw up the light,I ran into this before but don't remember what I did,thanks

Need to test a bulb and the circuit itself hopefully tonight I guess my biggest concern is 100%No turn signal function from the dash indicators on out to the lights I have to check for power at the flashers and coming out of column thanks

A 69 Charger is a 4 headlight system. The center most light on each side is high beam only and should only have power when the high beams are turned on. Those two headlights should only have 2 wires, one for the high beam power, and the other is ground. Often the high beam power is spliced from the high beam power on the other headlight on its side.

The outer headlights are high and low beam. There are 2 filaments in each of those lights. There are 3 wires going to each of those headlights. One wire is high beam power, one is low beam power, and the 3rd wire is ground. I incorrectly stated that when the power was switch from the low beam to the high beam the light would go out, but what I should have said was the low beam power would go out, and the high beam would be powered. If both filaments in the light are good, the light will stay lit, but will switch from the low beam to the high beam. It is possible that either one of the two filaments in a light could be bad and the other still be good. Then that light would function when the good filament was powered, and would go out when the bad filament was powered.

The dimmer switch changes the power from the low beam wire to the high beam wire. Both wires are not normally powered at the same time.

Sorry if I caused you confusion. Gene

Not at all appreciate the help! when it comes to electrical I am not a self starter I appreciate advice very much,ill actually be home tommorow and dig into this using you and the other guys advice .
I'll start with all that then check the fuse panel on this turn signal/flasher problem thank again!!!

Don't forget there are separate flashers for turn signals and emergency lights.

Yeah I seen them being separate I borrowed a super nice Fluke meter from work and have the weekend off,I'll post back by Sunday night to tell you guys if I figured stuff out,again thanks,was a member of this page 15 years ago but life got in the way thanks

Actually 18 years ago cause I remember the revamp in 03 and people lost their precious post count all good fun,..j

I registered in Nov of '03 so I musta just skated by!

I was one of those guys that lost the post count, wasn't a big deal to me, but it sure caused an uproar back then. Everyone lost their original sign up date as well, and all the PMs as well. Everyone re-started fresh. Gene

Yeah forums were where it was at for gearheads 99-03 give or take I was on three or four way to much and to a 13 year sabbatical ha but I'm not a expert in anything and have appreciated all help my only vice in this world is info,if I'm not working on something I'm telling someone something or reading about it,and I know what I know cause i never feel like a expert just keep on learning till they pitch me in a hearse, yeah I wasn't a high count guy nobody would remember me my username was CorrectDirection which I got alot of flack over cause a S/G Camaro guy ran that name as a slam on mopars which I didn't even know till well after I "thought" I made it up.I was just one of the abody guys trying to keep thier heaps on the road well before the whole world decided mopars were cool.Since I've had a few projects the best was a 451 70 Challenger I built but divorce got that, I've had this Daytona in my shop now of a guys trying to finish was suppose to be ready for late summer but from my post you can tell that didn't happen got to some family stuff then I'll be in shop hopefully till I figure this stuff out lights, and a few little things and it will be finished.Then I may take on a 69 500 just have to see thanks again for the help!

Got the headlights figured out.Two bad Wagner bulbs switched stuff around got lights were I didnt have before.

I didn't come up with anything on the no turn signal,flasher,brake lights.All fuses are good.I have power to the two red wires to brake light switch,power running to both flashers, all new taillight bulbs with working park lights so I pulled the two plugs off of brake light switch and jumped them still no brake lights.

I also took the steering column harness plug apart very clean and with key on I only had power to the red wire,nothing else harness side of column connector was hot it's funny all these things go though the same bulb element and have nothing that would use any of that circuit kinda lost here...😵

brake lights and turn signal lights route thru teh turn signal switch as well,

Look at that.