hydraulic clutch conversion without a kit

since I have to pull the drivetrain out of my 70 duster due to a fragged clutch, I figure now is the perfect time to convert to hydraulic actuation.

im planning on a pull style 3/4 diameter slave, and would like to match with a wildwood remote reservoir 3/4 master. ideally, id like to use the factory holes in the firewall.

has anyone done this, and if so, how? id really like to avoid bespoke parts and 600 price tags in any way realistically possible.

I did a similar swap on my desoto 318/833. I used a 3/4” master and a speedway motors 3/4” push slave. I was not able to get enough travel no matter what I did. I tried moving the slave mounting point further in on the clutch fork, but it still was not enough. I did drive the car for a while but knew the grinding was not good. I put an hydraulic throw out bearing(not the kit,just the bearing)in it and it worked much better. I welded a piece of sheet metal on the backside of the firewall for reinforcement and drilled/cut the holes for the master, after making a template of course.

A 3/4" master should normally have a 7/8" bore slave. Then it's just a matter of FULLY bleeding the slave and adjusting everything correctly from the pedal to the clutch arm and cylinder positions.

I've done the above on my Sweptline and simply made an adapter plate for the master cylinder that used the original firewall mounting holes for the OEM master cylinder (hole cutting and firewall mods are not usually needed). I made a bracket that bolts to the side of my transmission for mounting the slave cylinder.

- EM

https://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/clutch.shtml

EM, I see you've highlighted the FULLY bleed portion of your post. Are there any tricks to getting the last bits of air out of these hydraulic systems. I have one and I believe I may have a small amount of air stuck in it. I've tried power bleeding, but it still feels like I may have some trapped air.

The factory pulls a vacuum on them when they do a fill, Don't have to worry about bleeding out something that isn't there.

If you have a power brake booster, there isn't enough room to mount a clutch MC right next to the brake MC but, if you have standard brakes, the Wilwood MC can mount next to the brake MC.

Take something like this

https://autoplicity.com/5372270-ams-auto...ingComNOFITMENT

adapt it to the stock pedal and make an adapter to match to the firewall. Remote the reservoir. Under $100 if you are handy.

I think most of the common bleeding techniques and tools work. The only things I might add is to make sure the bleeder is on top of the cylinder as its mounted and to be persistent and keep at it. I started with gravity bleeding and then progressed on to vacuum bleeding each time making headway but often I find that just using the tube in a bottle of fluid and pushing the pedal works as a good final step.

- EM

The thought of using a factory application master with a angled firewall mount has crossed my mind. Like a 4th gen camaro master.

Problem i run into is that theres very little bore information out there for these.

Stuff I linked, 88 Fiero application

Clutch master, 11/16" bore
Clutch slave, 15/16"

4th Gen Camaro

Clutch master, 3/4" bore

Rockauto has the specs

On this Bigblockdart link. Does the rod come out of the slave straight like a suspension shock absorber or is it free to swivel with a ball joint after the piston?