Question on replacing brake hoses

I know this is such a simple job and I should know the answer by now, being a car guy since I have memories...replacing the front brake hoses on my '79 Power Wagon. It's pretty straight forward I believe, and I don't think any air would be introduced to the system, correct? I am not going to press and release brake pedal, so I should just lose a little fluid, and just need to add that back to master cylinder when done, and be good to go, right?

Thanks,

Larry

you will have air in the new section of line.
you could potentially bleed it out before you connect to the caliper but really you at a min need to bleed that caliper and check for brakes after that to see if you need to bleed more.

simple job yes . . . but still need to bleed the brakes !!! anytime you open up the system you are introducing air, no matter how small !!! Don't skrimp on safety, take the time to bleed them after you have replaced the brake hose.

Ok, thanks. That's why I asked. Won't skimp on safety and didn't even think about air in new hoses.

Thanks.

What Andrew said, grab a helper & bleed the air out of the new hose so there will be way less air to bleed out of the caliper, as they can be a pain. I have a helper pump the pedal vigorously 3 times then with good timing open the bleeder on his 4th downstroke to expel agitated fluid/air out of there. helps to put a block of wood under the pedal to limit the MC cups travel to its normal travel worn area (not a dealbreaker but it helps) & helps him better control the pedal.

it will start draining out the hard line when you R&R the rubber hose.

install upper end of hose and let it gravity bleed a couple mins, then connect it to caliper with new copper crush washers (which should be with a new line)

a helper then does fast pump up & hold of the pedal while you and crack the bleeder on caliper to remove the last little bit of air out of the caliper.

also I like to R&R the rear drums to put a visual on the rear shoes and hardware. brake clean the dust/grime out and then spoon up the rear for a good firm pedal at the top of the pedal stroke.

the pedal travels as the rear shoes wear and need spooned up on a regular basis like oil changes.

One question would be ,how old is the brake fluid, brake fluid attracts moisture ,moisture rusts lines. If it has been a while bleed the whole system.

Put a stick between brake pedal & steering wheel to hold it down about 2 inches so the fluid wont drain out the master.

I appreciate the responses. It's practically impossible for me to get a helper right now. My brother was my helper and he moved out of state. My neighborhood is not a very friendly one; a lot of renters who come and go. So I end up taking it to my mechanic whenever I can't do something on my own.

I've been working so much that when I first got truck I did have him put pads and shoes on the truck, and I can't remember now if he did anything else with brakes (drums, resurface rotors), but I know hoses were not done because when working under it recently I noticed how old and dried out they were. I'll just have him replace them and evacuate the entire system and new fluid.

Thanks. I've reached that age in which all my friends are married with children so no more coming over to play with cars, lol. Except for the occasional times when I can sucker Mike (scratchin) to drive over from the other side of the state and help me greatly with all my car and truck needs!

Easy way to do brakes by your self. Get a jar and put some brake fluid in it, then take the bleeding hose and put one end on the bleeder port and the other end in the fluid in the jar and make sure it doesn't become uncovered. Then open the bleed port, and start pumping the pedal, then when you see just fluid in the jar, close the port. I hope you know to check the reservoir so you don't pump it dry.

to bleed brakes by yourself. generic parts store one way bleeder valve & clear plastic hose. put valve into can or glass jar 1/2 filled with brake fluid. make sure valve is below fluid level. attach other end of hose to bleeder. crack bleeder. slowly depress and release brake pedal several times. DON'T let master run out of fluid. close bleeder. go on to next wheel. rinse and repeat. after system shows clean fluid at all four wheels, toss fluid in jar, fill as before with clean fluid, repeat process, done. this has worked for me for many, many years. yes, sometimes i get a stubborn one i have trouble with, but that is few and far between. sometimes, i don't even use the one way valve. just make sure the hose stays submerged in the fluid so as to not suck in air. a fair sized, clean, nut wired to the hose end works for this. the SLOW stroke of the pedal is the key to not aerate the fluid.

treed by mr 71 !

Ok, I get what you two are saying, and makes sense. Time consuming I guess but worth it to do myself. I really want to start doing more and more myself! Car guy all my life but I know until you really dig in and do it, you don't REALLY learn how.

Thanks,

Larry

Go get a mity-vac or even the harbor freight knock off version of one and use it to bleed your brakes. You'll never have to have someone in the cab pumping them again. Remove the bleeder screw, put a little teflon tape over the bleeder screw threads, snug it down, attach the hose to the bleeder screw, the hose to the catch can they come with, and another hose between the can and the vacuum pump. Pull a vacuum and crack the bleeder. Simple as that. The teflon tape helps to prevent air from being pulled past the bleeder screw threads.

i've done that too. bought a generic [made in elcheapistan] all metal deal that included a bunch of different adapters at a swap meet, new in the box, for $12. works reasonably well for the money spent. don't know how long it will last, but it has done 6-7 jobs so far, and is still going. just make sure to clean it good after use.

That's an interesting idea. I like that.

I ain't used one (yet) but I hear they work good.

Why don't you come over and try it out on my truck!

Well I have folks in Naples & they are wanting me to come down & see em.

I have just put a little grease around the outside of the bleeder threads to keep from sucking air when using a mity vac. Maybe not what should be used but it works for me.

Might consider some rust penetrant on the bleeder valves and the metal line where it enters the rubber hose. I always try to do that a day or two before you disassemble. Hit it with penetrant a few times if you can. Nothing worse than breaking off a bleeder valve or destroying the metal line. Use line wrenches also. Would definitely flush all the old fluid out when you bleed it. Your already there and a large container of brake fluid is cheap. Always keep in mind brake fluid destroys paint. I always put shop towels under the master cyl. in case any fluid gets spilled etc.

^^^ agreed & the Mityvac is looking better all the time.

I also use the mity vac to suck out almost all of the old fluid from the master if I intend to flush the system. Just leave enough to cover the ports.

I have used those hand vacuum pumps, that have a little bottle that has hose you connect to the bleeder screw and then create suction and open the bleeder and pull the fluid into the bottle, til there is no air coming out, then close the bleeder . . . usually can get at harbor freight cheap enough . . .

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB18iXQKpXXX...-Tester-Kit.jpg

Go to NAPA, purchase Evercraft # 776-9089. Brake bleeder hose with a one way valve. Hecho en Taiwan. Best thing ever from that country.

Open bleeder, install nose, put other end in a catch can, gently pump pedal, keep master cyl from getting empty, flush it all out until clean fluid comes out. Remove hose and tighten bleeder. Do all 4 to flush the system. Don't need a helper.