Evans Waterless Coolant

Does anyone have any experience with this product?

https://www.evanscoolant.com/products/

yup. It’s amazing when you pay 40 bucks a gallon how many gallons it takes to fill a 440 and a 3 core 26” radiator. I believe I’ve put 6.5 in it. It’s good stuff from what I hear. I’ll let you know how my car performs once I get the bugs out and can actually drive the thing.

Bulk propylene glycol can be had for less than $20 per gallon plus tax and freight.

Evans Coolant is mainly propylene glycol plus a little ethylene glycol plus anticorrosion package.

R.

I have had original formula Evans NPG in my 1995 Magnum 5.9V8 since 1998.
It does work as far as cooling. It does not transfer as much heat as water.
It did not reduce pinging via what Evans “nucleate boiling”.
An engine idling at a coolant temperature of 260 degrees is quite smooth compared to either 195 or 205.
You can take the fan blades off and run for months during seasons where AC is not needed.

Around year 2003 my drivers side plastic radiator side tank began leaking and I replaced the original radiator. I am not sure whether the Evans NPG caused this.

The Evans NPG changes color over time. Evans says not to worry.

had a friend that tried in in his turbo'd big block chevy powered mustang. car ran to hot for his liking, so he tried the evans coolant. flushed everything out, and put the evans in.
while it did reduce the coolant temp, it INCREASED his OIL temperature, to the point of he had to stop and pull over, and let it cool down. on one than one occasion.
i wonder how many people monitor their oil temp vs coolant?

A thermostat's job is to regulate temperature. Below it's temperature it will be closed. As temperature rises it opens just enough to allow coolant to flow to the radiator. If it ever reaches wide open it's because it's asking the radiator for more cooling and the radiator is returning all it can. This scenario should never be seen, if it is you need more cooling, like a bigger radiator.

Wrong. A thermostat regulates flow.

Which is how it regulates temperature.
A thermostat in your home regulates temperature by switching things on/off, an automotive thermostat does it by regulating flow.

When I searched parts books before the highest temperature thermostat I could find that would fit a Magnum V8 was 205 degrees F by Stant.

Does anyone know of available today 210 to 260 degree F setpoint thermostats?fr

That is way too high temp to keep an engine together. Engines run more efficiently at 185-195* range. At 260 the oil thins out so bad it can't protect the bearings.

It's really not much different than straight antifreeze, I wouldn't spend the extra money on it.

I agree. It cost to much. Fill it with Distilled water, a bottle of water pump lube, and 1 or 2 gallons of good anti-freeze, depending on where you live in the country.

modern engines are designed to operate in the low 200 degree range.
Its an emissions thing

Agree. The fans in my '99 Vette (LS-1) aren't programmed to come on till 226 degrees, and that's on low with the AC on. They come on high at 236. Not that those temps are what you want to see on an RB designed 50+ years ago. Its just that modern synthetic oils and blends aren't effected by temperatures as much as fossil oils used to be.

:Iagree:

But if you live in an area that doesn’t get below 25 degrees and it’s garaged...

Don’t run antifreeze at all. Lousy at transferring/removing heat from motor.

IMO ...it's like buying snake oil.

Fix whatever is causing your high temps and save your money for more important things like fixing your cooling system.

I used it years ago in a new factory fresh 454 in a dually that was doing some heavy duty towing and it made no difference.

I ask the question to all who are bashing Evans coolant. Have you ever used it?

It's amazing how many guys love straight water. I can tell you straight water is a block killer. It's stupid. Even if you drain it after every race.

If you can't maintain coolant temperature with an antifreeze mix fix your cooling system.

Evans works. It doesn't build pressure or need pressure to work. That, all by itself is worth the money.

Snot snake oil. Some benefits:

1. Because of the very high boiling point, there is no need to run the system at pressure, increasing the life of parts - hoses, heater core, radiator, water pump seals.
2. Never needs replacement.
3. Eliminates water, electrolysis, cavitation.
4. Because of the very high boiling point and ability to stay liquid rather than steam, it removes more combustion chamber heat in cylinder heads than water or antifreeze-water and adds octane tolerance, ability to operate on a lower octane fuel without detonation.

Have you monitored oil temps with it, vs regular antifreeze/water mix?

Let me help them out...

No. Hey haven’t

Ask about Evans in the racing and engine tech forum and you’ll get a completely different response. The guys who DO use it love the stuff. That’s why it’s in my build.

Yeah, except a search of the forum doesn't agree with your claim.

so if evens is basically polypropylene glycol,isnt that the same stuff as rv antifreeze with maybe some waterpump lube added?,the rv stuff is less than 5$ a gallon last time i looked
or am i all wet?LOL

I contemplated the use of this is a few fresh builds over the years, but I never pulled the trigger because I was hesitant of Evans claims, sure the race guys might swear by it, and the competition diesel rigs use it, but they're in a situation where the engine is torn down fully/partially after a few runs or season, so they haven't seen the long term effects of it in an engine, most of the real resto guys (screw Jay Leno) won't endorse it's use, in long term use (1-3 yrs)those that have used it in restos have experienced rapid corrosion problem with zinc plated components, and or copper based components, as well as an unusual amounts of leaks from fittings/gaskets/hose ends/etc, so Lindy your going to be the official Moparts guinea pig for the Evans challenge...we'll be waiting for feedback?...

Mike

I guess I am, Mike! I’m invested. Oink!

I’ve talked to multiple guys who’ve run it long term that wouldn’t use anything else. I’ve benefited so much from the great advice from the guys (like you) on moparts over the years. You can bet I’ll be posting my results down the road. Some of the most valuable advice on here is in regard to what NOT to buy.

To the question about RV antifreeze, that is 50% propylene glycol, 50% water. BTW POLYpropylene glycol would be a solid as the poly means it has polymerized.
SIERRA antifreeze which is supposed to safe for dogs to drink is propylene glycol, plus rust inhibitors and seal lubricant. Here is its SDS.
https://www.peakhd.com/wp-content/upload...lant.pdf?x38462