86 dually questions

Need some advice from the truck gurus. I have a guy close to me with an 86 dually that has mentioned trading with me for my 66 Fury. I love the old car, but I could get more use out of the truck.

It's an 86, single cab D350, long wheel base, 360 w 4 speed, has aluminum Alcoa wheels. Owner just replaced wheel cylinders and axle seals on rear. He also had a wiped cam lobe, and replaced it with a summit racing cam and lifters.

Anything prone on these trucks to being bad, and does this sound like a decent swap? I must admit I'm worried about smacking a deer and finding parts for the 66. Parts for a 2 year only body style ain't easy.

The only issue I have ever had with those year trucks is the wiring. The floors and rockers rust, but really check out the front edge of the roof above the windshield, VERY prone for rusting.

I ain't a truck guru but if I was in that position I would do like I'm sure you will do & that is evaluate it from head to toe.

I had an 360 1980 DRW D3500 Crew Cab.

About the only issues I had was a headlight switch fail, a front brake caliper locking up and the HD exhaust valves failing. Not that many miles but a lot towing a car trailer.

I managed to damage both of the rear fenders but that was not the trucks fault. I still have a repairable rear fender for it.

they are tuff trucks.

but like said..look at the drip rail/kick panels/floors/cab corners/rockers

also look at the frame for cracks at the steering box.

wire harness needs a look at if it has been hacked up any. look for burnt fusable links at the big rubber connector and follow each fusable wire for the charging system/IGN. system/ headlight wiring all on inner fender/firewall area.

FYI when looking for replacement harness pieces the plug connectors changed to a weather proof style and 82-85 do not inter change.

bad spot on the head light switch is the rivet that holds the spade to switch, they get loose/hot/burn/melt plug & switch.

if mech linkage on clutch have a look at rods/torque rod to see if bushings/clips are shot or eyeholes in rods are not wallowed out and sloppy.

have a look under the chassis for oil seepage/leaks at the rear main seal
trans seals/pto covers/pinion seals/axle seals.

OH! if it wiped a cam and was replaced did the flush the engine or "just" slam it in there?