Harland Sharp Adjustable Rockers and Trick Flow 240 Heads

I have learned that I have the wrong set of rockers on my big block that has about 1,000 miles on it. The part number is S70015K which is for the Mopar big block.
I can either spend $900 and get the S70015KE or use valve stem lash caps. I am not familiar with lash caps so I don't know if that is the right thing to do.
I would also entertain a different brand of good roller rockers if they are a little easier on the wallet.
The car will see the drag strip from time to time so I don't want an inferior set of rockers.
What are you guys using with trick flow 240 heads? Would you use lash caps?

What kind of cam, flat tappets or rollers?, and how much spring pressures and RPM?
I always use lash caps on all my solid roller cam motors to help avoid damage to the valve tips
Are your retainers and keepers designed for lash cap applications ? If not you will need them to match the lash caps
What is the exact difference between the two kits, intake rockers, exhaust rockers, length or what?

Changing the rockers or adding lash caps does not accomplish the same thing.

The “E” rockers, which is what the heads are designed to use, are shorter from the shaft c/l to the roller tip c/l.

Contact B3 racing engines, talk to Mike

Thanks everyone for your input. Sounds like I better go with the other set of HS rockers.
I doubt that my retainers and keepers are designed for lash caps.
I bought the TF 240 heads when they first came out.I had oil leaks because of the dimples that were cast in for machining purposes. The paper work that came with them said I could use stock manifolds, rockers etc. I assumed that since the set of HS rockers I bought were for use on Mopars that they would work. I noticed that the rocker tip did not hit in the middle of the valve stem but I assumed they would work. Then just the other day I read a post that the HS rockers were too long. I looked on the Summit website and found a question posted just this past October (almost a year after I bought mine)asking if the rockers would work on the TF 240 heads. Harland Sharp answered "no" and that the "S70015KE" ones are needed or lash caps.
It looks like a new set of rockers are in my future.
Thanks again.

Unfortunately, yes, you'll need different rockers as noted.You cant shim or adjust around your problem, like Dwayne mentioned, its the actual length of the rocker arm, well, actually the center to center distance of the wheel/shaft.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/trying-find-extra-power-rocker-arm-testing/

Is there a listing somewhere that shows what the distance is from shaft c/l to the roller tip c/l for either of the 2 part numbers? I have a set of crane gold rockers and was curious if they would be the same as the ones needed to work properly on the TF heads or I would need new rockers.

So stock replacement Harlan Sharp rockers don't work with the Trickflow 240 heads? Are the Trickflow 270 the same issue?

Will they " work" ? Well, they will bolt on, open and close the valves, and the engine will run etc., BUT, they wont be centered anywhere near where they should/ need to be over the valve stem.The standard S70015K rocker arm/kit is not the correct version for the Edelbrocks, Sidewinders and Trickflows.

One thing to help put it all in perspective......

The "E" rockers didn't always exist........ And for years people installed the std rockers on their RPM heads, and the fitment of that scenario is slightly worse than with the TF heads.
I'm sure there are countless motors running around just like that.

If I were building a bracket race motor with the TF heads, and already had the std rockers...... I'd run them.

For a street motor........ I guess it would depend on how much I felt I was really going to drive it.

I'm sure Mike at B3 could whip up some inserts to move the rockers back away from the valves enough to where the std rockers could be used instead of buying new ones.

The Crane gold and the E rockers are very close in length, as well as the Mancini/Harland's.
The Comp Ultra-Pro rockers fit the TF heads okay as well.

Thanks that's the info I was hoping to hear.

Forgot the B3 deal, that could work. I have never used it, but your looking to move about .070", I m sure Mike could tell you if that works with his set up. Dont know the cost of those either.The Crane Gold to me, was always " closer", more like the old Probes for fitment. They were thrown on everything, whether they fit or not, and kept running. I have a guy with a set of ProComp heads, and he is running T&Ds that fit like absolute crap in my opinion, and he runs lash caps. Horrible fit, but you know what, never had a problem, and never wore out a guide etc. For me, I'd rather have the right pieces, but thats me, and certainly with an expensive set of rocker arms, you dont want to throw that away.

Bumping this one back from the horribly dead, lol

I am shopping for heads and have narrowed in on the Trick Flows. I have a set of old Harland Sharp rockers on the 906 heads currently on my motor (they have stamped hold downs + 6 point adjusters, assume they are the originals not designed for the E-heads) and figured I could reuse them, but from everything mentioned here they are too long so the roller isn't centered over the valve stem.

What's the biggest drawback of using them as is? Rapid valve guide wear if I drive it on the street? I average about 1000 miles a year.

Alternatively, are there any issues with a B3 relocation kit? I've heard a couple people mention the bolt holes in the rocker arm stands are shallow on the Trick Flows and studs are recommended, but I don't see a way to use studs with the B3 kits.

Thanks,
Nick

Am I missing something here? Why would studs fit the B3 kit any different than bolts?

With the rocker shaft having to go up and back I didn't think you could use a stud that goes all the way through the rocker shaft and instead it had to be secured in 2 pieces. I've never seen a kit in person though so I don't know if you just drill another set of rocker shaft holes that aren't in line anymore.

On the TrickFlow 240 heads I used stock stamped steel rockers for at least 6,000 miles with no troubles. The next year I used bushed Crane ductile iron rockers for 1300 miles, only issue seemed to be some valve tip wear. I didn't really do much checking other than side and rocker to retainer clearance. When I put this engine back in I figured I ought to stop messing around and got Harland Sharps and started checking geometry and decided to use a shaft relocation kit from B3 racing engines.

I used a carbide bit in a die grinder to elongate the holes with my Harland Sharp kit for the B3 relocation kit. This has allowed me to keep using studs for rocker hold downs. If I recall correctly, if using bolts as hold downs, the grinding might have been unnecessary or at least less extensive
Mike @ B3 racing engines was very helpful, and I would check with him as I'm sure he may have a more elegant solution than what I did. Also depending on how far the rocker shaft is moved any grinding might be unnecessary.

That makes total sense, thanks. If I can still run studs by elongating some of the shaft holes I'm less concerned.

Appreciate it!

Correct...talk to Mike @B3 first. He'll need you to do up some measurements and will calculate the dimensions needed to re-align the geometry. This could mean both horizontal and vertical movemement of the shaft.

Vertical is easy, but if you need to move it horizontally you'd need an offset shaft, basically the holes for either the studs or bolts is drilled off-center on the shaft. Depending on how much offset you need you could either handle it with a DIY approach, or you might get an already machined shaft.

I base this on my hands-on experience working through this on my W2 Long Valve stroker build.

Keep the following in mind: you may loose some valve lift...I did, about 0.030" on a 0.580" design lift at valve, but the final geometry you arrive at is supposed to make for a much more stable drivetrain.

I have no actual street time on this build yet, still in the heads porting stage, so no real "and this is how it worked out" results to report.

Thanks- I think the shaft would have to move both up and back since the distance is too long. I only have the rockers, not the cylinder heads yet, so I'll have to start buying parts and then talk with Mike.

For Drag Week type stuff, I think the benefits of a stable valvetrain + potentially reduced guide wear outweigh the minor loss of lift.