Motor Mount (Rubber Isolater)

Has anyone found an "good" motor mount (the rubber isolater piece). . . just replaced the crap one I used on my Sport Satellite . . .the metal piece with the stud on it, was ONLY bonded to the TOP of the rubber biscuit . . . didn't they used to be made so that piece was in middle of the rubber ?? - doesn't seem like there is much to hold that metal piece to the rubber . . . .

I use a solid mount on the drivers side of my engines, even the 318s.

It will never break that way & the two other mounts provide enough cushion that I do not notice any extra vibration.

This was drivers side - the way engine torques . . .

If you buy the rubber mount for a 70s or 80s pickup, they come with a metal interlock, in case they break the motor won't lift more then a 1/4" - 1/2". The mounts are still rubber and still break much more easily then the old stuff seemed to, but at least you don't loose a fan shroud when they break. Gene

http://mitymounts.com/howtheywork.htm

http://engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/PolyLoc.html

I used the mighty mounts. Pricey but they are not made like the cheap ones. I've had original break just like yours. They have been like that for awhile. Just the bond was better. With this cheap Chinese crap out there, they may not last as long.

I have had the same problem with the new mounts out there. Now I buy NOS mounts, problem solved.

In the case of motor mounts, "Chinese crap" would be considerably better than the stuff we're getting out of India these days. Hasn't been a good mount available at a parts store in nearly 20 years...

I knew how bad todays stuff was just by looking at it, so I made a cable that goes from the cylinder head ground bolt to the K frame, and painted it Orange. The engine still if free to rock back and forth, but that is all.

Not the biscuit style ones for cars like you have pictured there.
Looks like the metal to rubber bond held but the rubber itself failed. Typical in my experience.

Some good solutions posted above, especially for the driver side. I used to break those and the transmission mounts on a regular basis with a slightly worked engine and some racing. I was going to buy the interlocked from Schumacher and Michael suggested using his solid engine strap instead. Haven't broken one since. A pretensioned chain would probably work too. Depends on your preferences and space limitations.

This is what I use, they are sold in pairs so they do two cars if used on the driver side only.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-62540/overview/make/dodge

A DIY Fix:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,13216.0.html

Fixed it CLICK HERE FOR LINK

I did this, so far 4000 miles of abuse & still holding.

If Imperial Services still has their poly mounts buy them.Have a set in my 65 that was the first he made.My son had a set in his 62 300 also along with their poly trans mounts.Mine have been in at least 10 years.The aftermatkets lasted maybe a month.They dont break period.That and not as bad as a solid mount for vibration.Rocky

All great ideas . . . I like the drilling and bolt idea!! Cheap and relatively easy to do !! My car isn't high torque machine, but don't want the nice underside of the hood touched by the engine!! . . .

a person can easily make your own with a bit of welding skill using plate and a formed channell and 2 bolts

I had two break on the driver's side within a few months. I installed a (Schumacher?)torque strap from Mancini and haven't had a problem since. Motor doesn't move as much as it used to either.

Here's my poly loc ones. They only caused the suspension and header to hit since I had a strap. I'm seeing if these have a warranty tomorrow and going to buy the Schumacher mount that attaches to the k frame. My uncle and cousin have one on their 11 and 12 seconds cars with the regular auto parts store mounts and no issues. I guess I could be considered lucky it only messed up my TTI headers ugh.

Edit: They said I need to put a heat shield around mine and they have a 3 yr warranty. Also ordered their torque strap while I talked to them.

Fir the price of poly locs I think I would search for NOS ones or old stock made in USA ones or do the thru bolt trick or a solid mound on one side. $300 for poly loc mounts seem crazy.

http://www.manciniracing.com/benmaset.html

With no description how is one to know that that isn't just a store mount?

It does look like it has the bolt through it.

MAGMOUNT HEAVY DUTY ENGINE MOUNTS
MAGNUM MOUNT-PROTECTS AGAINST INSULATOR BLOW-OUT.

Available for biscuit-style A engine swaps and replacements. '63-72 A-Body, '66-72 B, '66-73 C, and '70-74 E.

Bolt-through design locks up under acceleration, prevents blow-outs - provides the durability of a solid mount without sacrificing the smooth ride of rubber.

If it is bolt thru design, then why not get regular mount and drill it out and put your own bolts thru it ?? Would be less $$$ ???? Just a bit more work . . .

If that's how you want to roll, go for it!

R.