60amp to 120amp Denso swap with AREngineering bracketry

I made an error when I ordered the AREngineering 60 amp Denso alternator bracketry kit as a 60 amp alternator will not provide enough amperage for my car (440 engine).

What is the experience on using the AREngineering bracketry with a higher output (120 amp) Denso style alternator? Part numbers would be appreciated

Thanks

This alternator looks identical but is 120 amps. Should be a direct fit with the ARE brackets. The link is just for reference photos. Before I spent the money I'd take the 60 amp in with me to a parts store and compare the two side by side.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HIGH-OUTPUT-ALTERNATOR-Fits-TOYOTA-T-100-PICKUP-4RUNNER-3-0L-V6-1993-1995-120AMP/251195938420?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

It works, I have that setup on my 383.

For part numbers, go to ARE's site. Either order from there or there is dealers that sell his stuff

At one time there was a 120 amp kit offered, but now they (Mancini, Hughes) only offer the 60 amp kit; if someone had bought that 120 amp kit and had the Denso number off the Alternator that would be the ticket. AREngineerings website doesn't list a phone number or email address.

I looked at the one on EBay as above, but on the cross reverence alternates it lists they are 60 amp units so I would suspect that it's still a 60 amp one.

What, so you don't believe this part ...

>>>>HIGH OUTPUT 120 AMP<<<<

MPR: WAI

ROTATION: CW

REGULATOR: I/R

AMPERAGE: 120 AMP

VOLTAGE: 12-14.7 VOLT

PULLEY: 4-GROOVE OVERDRIVE PULLEY

It just concerns me that they are listing it as an alternative to the 60 amp part numbers - I am probably just overthinking it - Thanks for the suggestions

That's right, a 120 amp alternative ... which is exactly what you want, right ?!?!?

The 120 amp kit was totally different. It used a much larger alternator and the alternator was low mounted. I stopped selling the 120 amp kit since it was a pain to build and some customers tried mounting it into cars that it wouldn't fit in (A body).

The 60 amp kit is fairly fool proof and 60 amps is enough output for almost everyone. 60 amp Denso alternators are OEM on a lot of vehicles. My wife's SUV has a 60 amp alternator on it and that rig is EFI, heated seats, electric defrost, stereo, AC, dual heaters, etc.

Thanks Andy - the car is bone stock, no fancy stereo, A/C or electric fuel pump, just upgrading to 6AL ignition (which calls for 0.9 Amps per 1000RPM) and an electric cooling fan which calls for 22 peak amps

That's funny Andy, I bought one of the 120 Amp kits and put it in my B engine'd A body. It fits, but it's tight in there- but everything's tight in a Big Block A body. Not a great picture, but the best one I have right now. The output stud is close to the RPM head and the plastic piece on the stud had to be removed. I replaced your supplied hardware with the buttonhead allen bolts, soon to be replaced with ARP stainless 12 pnt hardware.

denso 2100138

I got a slightly used Denso 120 amp unit over on BigBlock Dart.com several years ago, ordered this bracket from Mancini
Tight fit between the head and alt... but looks like it will work for my big block A body Cuda
He told me it was a John Deere application

Be careful those pulley grooves are way too large for a pass car belt, you will probably need to swap over a different pulley. My alt in the picture was off of a '91 d3500 with a Cummins.

I made a few kits using a big alternator from a Lexus SUV. That was a nice kit and the alternator was super bulletproof. But the combo was way to expensive to sell to Mopar guys so we killed it. I might put one on my own car though since it was a cool setup.

I'm wondering what makes an alternator "a cool setup" !!!

I use a 60 amp Denso alt that I snagged off of a cash for clunkers 89 Yota 4 cylinder pick-up on my car and it works perfectly. Even when I was running an electric water pump,fan,fuel pump,and an MSD 6AL and it never skipped a beat even at 6000 RPM all the candles stay lit. The internally regulated Denso alt maintains a steady 14.5 volts even at idle with everything on so in my opinion you do not need anything with more amps.
But hey it's your money What do I know after over 30 years working on Toyota cars and trucks

Gus

If you need more that 60 amps to keep your battery charged, it doesn't matter what someone else is running. Having 10-20 % overhead is what I'd consider a MINIMUM, otherwise you end up replacing alternators and batteries very frequently. I've seen Denso alternators fail over and over because of extra added loads. Do some careful research when you are engineering your electrical system or bad things will happen.

As Skeptic says, undersized alternators can be an issue. Oversized not so much. An alternator is controlled by the regulator so it will only put out enough to match demand until it hit's it's limit.

So, if you have a 120A alternator in an 80A system you'll be fine and have a 40A reserve, if you have a 60A alternator in a 80A system you will be draining your battery trying to support the load.

However, if you are going to run a 120A alternator you had best make sure your wiring and protection matches.

Well I've had the same 60 amp alternator and battery in my car for over 5 years so obviously some of the above information is incorrect. I suspect the Mopar based externally regulated Denso alternator is what some of this information is based on.
Toyota has used the same basic 60 amp alternator on their vehicles with dozens of electrical systems running constantly for over 200,000 miles with the original battery and alternator. The way systems are wired with relays and carful wire selection has more to do with how many amps you need from your alternator.
Gus

Agree 60 amps with good idle output is OK for a stock muscle car engine... including with AC.

My 400 (based) engine is not stock. Big EFI fuel pump and electronics draws some power. A 75 amp upgraded squareback barely kept up running down the highway at night and AC running. At idle a big drain and voltage drop.

My current "fix" is a later 70's "big Chrysler" alternator. 100+ amps and lots of idle output. Works fine... just heavy and unique brackets which I already had.

I may try one of these... supposed to bolt in place of a square back.

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_557/Chrysler-Mount-Mega-Amp-Alternator.htm

Nope. it's based on 34 years of electronics experience.

If your alternator cannot supply the current needed the missing current will be drawn from the battery, fact. That's is how it works in ALL cars, internally regulated or not. Denso, Chrysler, Delco, Motorcraft, doesn't matter.

If your setup had no issues then it is simply because your demand never exceeded the charging system's ability to supply it, fact.