8 3/4 swap in driveway, solo with jack stands - tips?

Having a heck of a time getting my new 8 3/4 pumpkin installed. I don't have the leverage on the ground to lift it up into the housing. Also, I have fairly long dual mufflers that are partly interfering with the case, so I can't go straight up. Doesn't seem to be any way to roll it under there on a jack, not enough clearance once on the jack. At this point I'm thinking I might have to remove the whole housing by dropping the springs, then re-install. Seems a shame - so close and yet so far! I've already tried levering it up there with wood boards, that was a $#!t-show and I'm getting pretty sore and beat-up wrestling this thing around on the ground. Any tips?

1st option
Get the car higher in the air and use a floor jack to help lift it.
2nd
Get the car higher up and get a transmission jack to lift it.
3rd
Get the car higher and get someone to help you.

Would unbolting the shackle hangars from the frame rails and letting the suspension and housing pivot downward help?

I think unbolting the springs or housing will just make it more difficult in the car as things will move around. You should be able to get a jack under, the pig under, then put the pig on the jack and jack up without having to have the car up to the moon. If you're not able to pick the pig up off the ground at all when on your back/side under the car, your only option is to get the car way in the air on some good stands.

Know any bigger guys? Give him $20 or some beer and pizza to put it in there for you .

I stand the third member upon the pinion yoke and then lift it up into the housing while tilting the ring gear into the housing first
Think smart and be careful
Them babies ain't light weight, are they

I generally roll under the car on a creeper with the pig on my chest. Then I lift it in. It seems to work if you tilt it down slightly and hook a bottom stud and then tilt the top in. Steadying it on a trolley jack would work too but would be a lot better with two people, one on each side.

Been awhile. Not really a fun job...

If I recall correctly I found a series of higher items to slide/drag the pumpkin on to. First I had the pumpkin on a piece of plywood and slid it under the car, and then I slid/lifted/dragged the pumpkin up a few inches higher on to a couple pieces of lumber, then it was something else a little higher, and so on. Then at some point it was high enough off the ground where I had enough leverage and strength to pick it up and install it.

Was a bit like a game of Jenga, with a big heavy object on top...kind of tilt the pumpkin enough to put a piece under one side, tilt it the other way and put another piece under it, and so on.

scrap lumber is your friend.

Another approach is put it on a milk crate or similar, and then weasel pieces of scrap lumber under the crate.

A trans jack would be nice to have....

Remove the muffler that's in the way. I usually lay on a large piece of cardboard, crawl under there and lift it up in. I don't like using a creeper for this job cause they seem to roll around just when you're in that awkward position with the third member in the air. Eat your Wheaties, put on a light pair of leather gloves and go for it.

Jack the car up as high as possible. Place your jackstands on the frame ahead of the rear wheels. Make sure the fronts are chocked.

The problem with pulling the axle is if it hasn't been out in a long time you will probably break a bolt somewhere. Northern suspensions are rough to work on.

Also you will either have to remove or replace the brake line. Don't expect it to come out happy either. Then there are the E-brake cables too.

If the whole axle comes out you then have a momma pig to wrestle. I suggest wrestling the baby pig with the help of a friend or rented buddy from the local gym.

When I run into a situation like this I call it tool up time and buy more tools. Maybe a borrowed or harbor freight jack would help but CHOCK THE CRAP OUT OF THE FRONT WHEELS. no matter what you do. Like somebody said previously. Stand it on the nose and flip it in. Also if the exhaust is in the way a tie down strap often works wonders to pull them outta the way. Run the straps around the pipe and if you cant get a spot to grip to then open the doors go through the car and wrap it around the other side. Packs of 4 of the small tie downs linked together are cheap or one long 2.5 Inch one would work.

Hope it helps

When I did it, I jacked the rear end up pretty high, then placed the third member on a floor jack, jacked it up high enough, then rolled it on in. I'm too chicken to lay my chest and head in a confined space under an awkwardly shaped, greasy chunk of metal that weighs 80 pounds but I know many people just put it on their chest and bench press it on up there.

IMGTX had some good ideas.

4th option, jack the car up higher(did I mention that? really important for this job, jackstand it on the frame and let the rear end hang down) and then install a aluminum 3rd member.

Not sure if it's possible on your car? I use 2 guide studs lot's of times that are longer than the others to help guide it into place. I forgot you may have have all bolts? Still can use guide studs and take them out after it's in.


Coming out is easy, pry it out and let it hit the ground and roll it out from under the truck. Use a engine crane to pick it up and move it around. I did this solo.

ok, got it in - jacked the axle way up so I could roll it in duck taped to a jack, then lowered suspension over it, jacked it into place, lots of cussing (sorry neighbor) but then it went in.

BUT...

I put in the posi fluid first and now it's dripping out the bottom of the seal, no matter how tight I make the bolts - I must have damaged it on the way in. Can I crack the bottom a little and squirt some RTV in there? No way I'm pulling that sucker again...

(Pull it out...

Clean EVERYTHING thoroughly...

Use a gasket...

Dry...

Oil the studs...

Torque to spec...


Walk in the park...

We've done 'em a million times...

HF sells a low price trans jack.

After their oft time 25% discount, you are at 75 bucks. You will likely use it again.

https://t.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/transmission-jacks.html?utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F

Sorry about the leaks . Most of us have done this more than once, even me. And not all can just pick up a center section and put it in. The guide studs are a good idea, holds the gasket in place to avoid damage which now you have. You can use more than 2 guide studs , 4 would be better. 2 on top 2 on the bottom. AS for trying to do a fix without removing the pig, Screw in 3-4 longer bolts to slide it out on, then dry the gasket and metal seal area off, you then should be able to see where the gasket is damaged, if reparable , then coat that spot with some gasket maker. Reassemble again using a chris cross pattern for tightening . Good luck

^^^ Ding ding ding I do believe we have a winna. if there ain't enough stud showing to double nut em (should be I just never noticed that) to get em out then cut a screwdriver slot in the stud with a hacksaw. EDIT or maybe just some vice grips

I'm trying to picture where your screwing these longer studs in for guide studs...???
Last and every 8 3/4 I ever messed with the studs were pressed in with a knurl from the inside. 64 up anyway...
That means the pig is already out and on the ground again to get inside the housing to swap out the studs to longer ones...Sure will make fixing the leak easier...
I understand most here have great intentions when offering advise...but damn...To someone whose never done this and is truly trying to learn he is unbelievably confused now...

Thanks for the link. I'm gonna get one of these the next time I have to do it.

What he said LOL

When you say dripping out of the bottom of the seal do you mean the gasket between the third member and housing?
I had a leak that I thought was the gasket and it ended up being the fluid was wicking around one of the four bottom studs that are under the fluid level seeping around the knurl that retains them
I had that third member out three or four times before finding that, it took some Mopar brand grey transfer case and rear end sealer on the knurls to fix it It would leak around the knurl ands leak out behind the flat washer and nut and look like it was leaking from the gasket
Good luck, let us know what you find and do to fix it, you can fix it

Had this same leak rear end of our 300 B. Pulled each lower stud, slathered with silicone, somewhat wary if would do the job because of inability to get a clean dry surface. However has so far done the job. If had not, would do again using PTFE/Teflon tape.

Your right, I was wrong.

Been a while since I have swapped gears on a 8 3/4" rear and yea it would be tough to pull the factory studs to install longer ones and not worth it. I was thinking it used bolts like the last rear I did. I have done more 9" and truck rears than I have 8 3/4 lately.

I don't think the OP is confused as he just got done doing this so he is more in tune with the job right now than any of us right at the moment.

I do remember needing to have the car up high so I could muscle that 3rd member from my chest into the car more than once years ago.

Same with 4 speeds on my chest first then into the bell housing.
I have done a lot work at home years ago where I don't have a trans jack.

I still have few 8 3/4 laying around.

Not to highjack the thread but where did you get that Carrier box?

Me likey alot.

I think mine are made by Jaz fuel cells? I bet several people make them now, but I am pretty sure Jaz was the first to make them.

Actually they came with new 9.5" rear ends I bought over the years from Mark Williams. I have bought too many from them. Racing top alcohol dragster you go through some rear ends.

I agree, my mistake!

15 years ago I would have just lifted it and it was in. The problem is that as we get older we/I don't have the arm strength. I feel for you. I was lucky last time, a younger guy lifted it in for me. I probably will not R&R another one in this life. I'm now 75

MaMopar gave up on gaskets 25 years ago. Order one from the dealer and you get a tube of gear-lube-resistant RTV. Way to go. ONLY way to go!

Rick

Never used a gasket. Gear lube resistant sealer.