Bypassing the bulkhead connector/ Madd wiring

Putting in a new dash wiring harness in my 70 Duster. Madd wiring suggests adding fusible links & changing wires to take the load off of some of the connections.

Also connecting the 2 alternator wires together to bypass the amp gauge.

Some people say this is not the way to do it. I have checked the wiring diagrams & really don't see a problem.

What do you or have you done?

Thanks!

I clean EVERY terminal/connection in the entire circuit including ground paths & I do Nachos' bulkhead parallel bypass which is to drill out the 2 main power in/out cavities in the bulkhead & replace those 4 brass terminals with a length(s) of wire straight thru & leave ~6" or so of those 2 wires rearward of the rear bulkhead half under the dash so if you need to seperate the bulkhead again in the future you can pull the front half forward to service the terminals. I like the ammeter & I add a voltmeter to switched 12V. I ain't done this but it wouldn't hurt to relay the headlights/heater/AC directly to the power source (the alt). there was some good post on fusing for protection. #1 keep the ammeter needle close to 12 0'clock

I bolt the amp gauge wires to one terminal, install headlight relays, run a large gauge wire with either an appropriate sized fusible link or a marine grade fuse from the alternator to the starter relay where the positive battery cable is also bolted.

The point is to keep any high amp load from passing through the bulkhead. If you have any high amp load accessories, use relays outside the cockpit to power them. You can leave the factory wiring at the bulkhead as is if you remove/bypass the high amp load accessories from the cockpit.

A positive distribution lug in the engine compartment comes in handy if you want to add additional loads. The only alternator I found that can support significant amp loads at idle is a GM CS144. It virtually bolts right in with a small adapter and some careful pulley shimming too. Mine puts out well over 115 amps at a low idle. It looks almost stock to most people too. Not to most people on here though.

It's easily reversible, bolt-on and leaves the stock wiring intact. It keeps things simple, and is very effective.

read this and you will be fine... TRUST ME!!!! my car is a driver with AC, alt upgraded and stock ammeter working correctly and SAFE. Despite all comments about the ammeter weakness and stuff, which even can be PARTIALLY true, it can work SAFELLY doing everything right. Those who say that don't trust on their own cars and how the electrical system works.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0/all.html

Thanks guys! I will look in to it.