Steering Wheel Puller

Trying to get to the ignition switch to replace it on my 73 Dodge Challenger and it looks like I'm going to need a steering wheel puller , does anyone know if it's one specific to my car that I need to order or would one of the universal ones that are on Ebay work ? Thanks

Universal one works, at least it did on the 73 Challenger I had.

If it were me I'd get the horn off first to see exactly what in need. Its also something you'll likely never need again so if you can borrow one, do !! Ask Tim Finnell if he has one.

A harmonic balancer puller works too, if you have one.

If you get the standard puller it works great for a lot of things including dampers. You'll end up with a big bolt and washer collection just for the puller.

Like this one...

Most major auto parts stores lend out that kind of tool. I know for sure that O'Reillys does. OOPs missed where you are. Never mind my bad advice.

All advice is good or Harbor Freight too

Harbor Freight .... yeah, they got Harbor Freight in London, England. What the hell, that's just east of Boston, right !!!

Don't feel bad, Trump probably doesn't know where it is either.

Go back to guarding your strategic maple syrup reserves.

I knew that was coming. (I got nailed a month ago!). I Googled & no HF in London England & first I just typed London & got a hit (& was pumped) & I thought I'm on to something relevant to contribute! then several seconds later it turned out to be a city back east in the US of A named London with a HF. spend a few bucks & get a good one as you will use it on steering wheels (no problem there) and dampeners & on a real real tight dampener it can strip the center bolt threads on a cheapie. the odds are in your favor with that tho & in addition for dampener work I would also get the threaded bolt kit to draw the dampener back on

Got mine so many years ago I can't remember where.
Whitlock auto maybe?
The was no harbor freight then.
I use it all the time.

Maybe its just 'cause I don't live in the good ol' US of A that I don't expect everybody else does either.

Alright, I'll be quiet EDIT No offense was meant

Forgot all about Whitlock auto! Are they even around?

Don't think so.

I have a couple like the one shown.Also have one I bought probally 45 years ago.Its small and round and has multi holes in it.Just line it up use appropate bolts to attach and turn the center one down.posp then right off.An old trick that works sometimes is tighten the whell more than it it.then undo the nut almost all the way and smack the wheel toward you.Its worked a few times for me.Rocky

One like this worked for me ('70 Challenger). I believe it is actually a damper puller. As mentioned, you will need some longer bolts or threaded rod. I also made an extension for the center from 3/8" material from memory to fit inside the crush can.

You probably also need to pull the steering lock "star" which is attached with a roll pin. The column does not like getting hit with a hammer to drive out the roll pin. There is a factory press tool for this pin. I improvised with a modified C clamp to get it out without a hammer.

Dont know if this place is close, but they are available.

http://www.eurocarparts.com/search/balancer%20puller

I have been lucky and got a couple wheels off the shaft without a puller. Might want to try it first before buying a puller. And it is really easy to make one for a challenger if your steering wheel is stuck on. I made one years ago.

Challanger I agree you can make one pretty easy.The real old one i have almost looks like it was home made but it was sold in stores.Just a round piec of about 1/4 inch plate.has numerous holes drilled in it and a nut welded in the center that the big bolt to use to press goes thru.pretty simple.I have a clutch basket puller for Harleys also that looks almost like it but is bigger and heavier.Another one I have is just like a straight bar about 1/2 inch thick.It is slotted and fits different spaces on the bolts.Rocky

Thanks for the replies, what thread is it ?

What thread is what ???

JF my tailor made parts house cheapie is metric (I forgot what size) & with a piece of flat plate/3 small holes/3 bolts & washers & whatever is the largest long bolt & nut you have handy & drill a hole in the center of the plate & weld on the nut (have the bolt in the nut when welding) or it will warp unuseable & some lube on the threads during welding MAY be a good plan (I ain't a welder but they will ans the Q in a minute) & if it is a good plan then goop the threads. EDIT you could likely put a nut on the front side of the plate & hold it still with a wrench then turn the big main bolt in CW (no welding required) to move the assy (with the dampener) outward & off.

a couple of tips when welding a nut to a plate. if the plate will be used to add some extra threads, drill the plate to the tap size of the nut thread being used. find a longer bolt that fits snug in the drilled plate hole, then wrap the bolt snugly with masking tape [yes, masking tape] so the nut you are using fits the wrapped bolt as snugly as possible. this will keep it within a few thousandths of the tap drilled hole. secure the nut with a washer and nut the size of your pilot bolt. tack weld the nut to the plate in two places, then remove the pilot bolt and masking tape which will be toasted slightly. DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEAN TO REMOVE ANY RESIDUE left from the masking tape. there should be very minimal, if any, and can usually be removed with a damp rag. finish weld the nut to the plate. as the nut will shrink during the cool down, run a tap through the nut, which will continue through the hole drilled in the plate, resulting in a continuous thread pitch. if not needing the extra threads, drill the plate hole at least 1/16-1/8" larger than the bolt size. center the nut and bolt in the hole, tighten the nut, and weld away. no grease needed, or wanted, because the grease will try to migrate between the nut and plate, contaminating your weld. allow to cool, then remove the bolt. try a NEW bolt to see how it fits. if too snug, run a CHASER tap through the nut instead of a CUT tap. this will prevent the nut threads from becoming weak due to extra material being removed from the nut with using the regular [cut] tap. and as was said, use lube on the bolt during use to prevent galling of the threads.

Thanks for the replies , so we've got that off but having trouble getting the steering wheel lock mechanism off , the switch is behind this , it won't budge when you pull it , is there a tip to getting it off ? Thanks

If the lock is like the ones I did there is a thin snap ring that holds it in place.It has to be compressed a bit and the ring removed with a small screwdriver or pick.There should be a spring under the lock plate.Thats what gets compressed.They make a tool for it.I used to be able to press them down ny hand years ago.Usually needed a helper to get the snap ring off though.Rocky

if not using a tool, [i made mine, but i'm pretty sure they are relatively cheap] be careful. even using a helper to work the retainer ring off, both of you can get slightly out of sync and when the plate gets loose, you may be surprised how much force the spring under the plate has. the retainer ring is not the usual snap ring, and as rocky said, you need a couple of small screwdrivers and a small, sharp, pick. as an added bonus, there is not much room for two thumbs and the needed tools inside the column collar. even using the tool, it can sometimes be a challenging task. especially on a retaining ring that has not been removed since originally assembled. just be forewarned. [and a poke or two chasing that ring around the groove in the shaft]

If you are talking about the large round disc with notches around the edge, I believe this is the tool you need or similar.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail...6&ppt=C0374

There is a roll pin (small) that holds the locking ring on. It needs to be removed to pull the ring... without hammer and drift that can damage the column. There is a factory tool for this. I improvised with a modified C clamp. It was a single use tool... shot after using once. I did not put the ring back so I could cut ignition and still steer "just in case".

what year were you working on that had the roll pin ? all the ones i have worked on did not have that pin, but i have been limited to 70-86ish, and 93-2002 air bag units.

I ran into something pulling the steering wheel in my 73 Cuda. I wound up using all-thread, washers and nuts to pull mine out. It was a while ago but I think it was because the bolts that came with the puller did not reach or did not clear or something.
Wish I could remember....sucks to get old.
Craig

I have the original Miller one, shaped like a tall H with 2 bolts that fits between the legs and a center bolt on the cross bar. Of course you can do it the junk yard way, pull up on one side while slamming up on the other or just grab the rim and rock back and forth while pulling up hard. Done many this way. Also have installer, just a tube that's longer then the center post, drive it on with hammer.