Deep brass freeze plug removal from 440

Trying to get a deep brass freeze plug out. I pounded it in trying to get it to tilt. But I think it's against a cylinder wall now (passenger rear).

What are my options as to getting it out now? I'm afraid to drill because I don't want to get into the cylinder wall.

Do they make a tool or what else can I try?

Thanks in advance!

Poke it on one side then the other. It will angle a bit. That will tell you which side to go after.

It's not even loose. It's still very much tight in the hole. As I was pounding it in trying to get it to tilt, the tone changed and it stopped moving

Sometimes you gotta fight them a little. A little prying with a med screwdriver and distorting them enough to pry them out of shape and just the right size vice grips will help get them out.

By poke I meant tapping on one side with a screwdriver and a masher. If it doesn't twist a bit then whack the other side.

You're pushing a flat back insert against a cylinder. It will either roll around one side or get pounded into the shape of the cylinder.

Got it out. Ended up getting a slim screwdriver on one edge, prying out a hair, and grabbing with pliers and coaxing it out.

Thanks!

One thing to remember when reinstalling those cup type freeze plugs. If you pound them in with a socket use the largest possible. A smaller socket will actually pull the sides in making the cup loose fitting and prone to leak or pop out under pressure. Proper way to install is tapping it in on the outer edges.

There is a tool to pull the frost plugs. We used it at the factory to pull the plugs and install the block heater plug in its place. It is a bar with this hook like tool on the end that jams in the plug and you wedge it out of the block. Never thought that I should of taken it home to make it much easier to remove all the frost plugs in the future. Screw driver still works not to bad but sometime you can punch it into the block. Like said above use the biggest socket you can get into the plug to install it.

Yeah I used a socket that fit inside the freeze plug.

I only did the rearmost one on each side of the block. I am having overheating issues and wanted to confirm the debris in the block and flush it out. Not as much as I thought, but enough to where it came out dark brown when flushed with the hose.

Installation went smooth, and slid right in. It took longer getting the starter down/out and removing that freeze plug, than it did putting it back in!

When I have more time, I'll be doing the other four, as I have to drop exhaust and remove motor mounts.

After the flush, the truck does run a little cooler. But not a lot. She climbs to 205*-210* on long steady inclines (over the course of 3-4 miles). But cools right off on flat ground. Idles at 195*-205* but cools down once moving.

Water is brown again after about 10 miles of driving so I still have debris in the block somewhere(?)

Actually the temps ain't extremely out of line. I would confirm temps with a known accurate mech temp gauge (candy thermometer maybe?) & pull the plugs & tow it to the car wash & blast it out with the spray wand BUT from your descrip it sounds like inadequate water flow more so outside the block as in a partly plugged rad or much less likely the stat ain't opening all the way. I would check/address those first. Holler how it turns out.

Those temps are off of a mechanical gauge.

Radiator was rodded out a couple weeks ago. I flushed it again yesterday and brown silty sludge came out.

I had an issue with the head freeze plugs popping out, and when I felt into the head, I pulled out old freeze plug "carcasses".


Bucket was fresh coolant about 2 month ago.

The bottle is what was in the bottom of the radiator after the coolant was drained (not yet flushed with the hose).

Flow seems decent through the radiator when the hose is running through it.

I have to get a floor jack, so maybe I'll get an infrared thermometer.

About the temps being within reason, these were when the outside temp was 60-65. I'm hoping that it stays consistant for when the weather gets hotter.

Put water in the cooling system and considerable amount of dishwashing soap. Run the engine for 20-30 minutes and drain it out.

The grease dispersal properties of the soap really helps break up the nasties.

Got a cheap centech infrared thermometer here's the readings at idle:

Thermostat housing: 176*
Top of radiator at top hose:167*
Bottom tank of radiator at hose: 145*

Not entirely sure how accurate this thermometer is but it does show the radiator cooling...

Gauge is at 190*.....

Just checked the radiator and the drivers side cores show 100* while the passenger side shows 80*....

Sound about right, or could th radiator be clogging again because of the debris in the system?

Oh and thanks feets, I'll be doing that this weekend, time and weather permitting

The temp drop through the radiator sounds good.

As for the left/right that sounds like you've got a flow restriction in there somewhere.

Put in a mew gauge and she never went over 200*.

The probe on the old one was rusted. That probably didn't help hahaha