Comp cam small block help

Hi I have a 71 360 truck motor with Doug Thorleyheaders 1 5/8 a Holley 650 double pumper wiand 8007 intake with a 727 transmission 3500 stall converter and by the beginning of the year will be switched out to a 4 speed what do you guys think of this Cam ?

I ain't a cam guy but it says midrange which seems close to your moderately hot combo. consider this a BTT for ya

Without more info its hard to say,but I never use Comp for anything(live a couple of minutes away). With a low(8to1)or less type combo in a truck you can do better.

It's a truck motor in a dart 1969

I would have to agree that unless you have more than 9 to 1 compression, that cam is going to be a big disappointment. It won't have any bottom end and unless you have 4:10 rear gears it's going to be a slug.

Cam is on the larger side unless you have nearly 10:1 compression, or alot of gear/converter?

"In general" if you have low compression, you want less valve overlap or you will make the car slower, not faster, with a cam swap. Is your static compression ratio really 8:1?

Better Choice ???

I also looked up online a 71 360 was 8:7.1 The heads of been done so if there might be a little bit more with decking but not much

Take the appropriate measurements and calculate your true CR. What a book says and reality are likely two different numbers.

^^This^^. If an OE piston you may be in the low 8ths or highly likely even the 7's

I agree with RapidRobert. I am currently building a 77 360. Going with SpeedPro H116 pistons to get 9.5-1 compression, along with squaring the deck surface. I found that the factory dished pistons were making about 7.8-1. If you are using the stock pistons, even the second cam will still be too large.
I am using that same cam in my build, should be good for about 340hp.

Here's the deal...You proposed a solid lifter cam, the cam proposed back to you was the same cam in a hydraulic lifter version. Ho Ho Ho!!!

You're in the right ballpark, but they're right, basically any 360 right up until they switched to 5.9 Magnums is going to have pretty low compression. But you have a 3500 stall converter.

Anyway, here's an idea for you. Go to this page,

http://www.compcams.com/Pages/401/dyno-sheets.aspx

and look at the power curves of the hydraulic cams.
I know it's a smallblock chevy, but it's about the same size, and about the same type of head flow. I did a lot of studying a few years ago and actually made graphs of the different curves that I laid over each other. It looked to me at that time that the XE262 gave up almost nothing to the larger cam, and that's what I'd suggest.

I'd also go with a hydraulic lifter cam unless you have a set of 273 adjustable rockers and the right pushrods in your parts bin.

After you get this combination figured out, a pair of Magnum heads would really help. Or, if you love your '71 heads, a set of KB "quench dish" pistons. KB362 would be my choice.
R.

I recommend Lunati Voodoo cam with no more than 220 @.0.50. If you buy too small a cam you will always have more driveable car. You need as much torque you can get for a low compression street car. I have a friend who is a mechanic and long time Mopar guy. He builds his street motors for torques and they die off above 5000. They really scoot from a stop sign. I am a retired strip racer and my engine is a combo torque and power. My 410 SB runs low 12's with 3.23 gears and a 27" tire. It also get 15 MPG on the road Everyone has their own opinion. Do what you want and see how it works. Less is more in a street motor.

I run the cam below in a 9.5 compression 340 with a 3000 stall, works nice on the street but I would say your 360 would need more squeeze to make power


Brand:Crane Cams
Manufacturer's Part Number:691191
Part Type:Camshafts
Product Line:Crane Mechanical Flat Tappet Camshafts
Summit Racing Part Number:CRN-691191

UPC: 021174013634
Cam Style: Mechanical flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 3,000-6,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 238
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 248
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 238 int./248 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 300
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 310
Advertised Duration: 300 int./310 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.500 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 int./0.500 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 114

I have a newer set of J heads that I'm getting done and decking them 30,000's and try to pick up some cc The old heads are smog heads I made you my own gasket match a little but no porting guides and valves I'm sticking with 194's I do you have the option of going to 202s but my head guys telling me to stay with the 194's for the street and a little bit of track performance Says the 202s will only help me if I'm trying to go above 6500

Always a good idea to call the cam company's tech line and go over your choices before buying anything.

I know many people do it, but I wouldn't trust a machine shop to pick a cam for me either.

I hear you

I'm running ported J's as well with 2.02's....but if I was starting with just bare heads I would look for some aftermarket heads and not spend the money on the J's.