NAG1 into an A body??

Just like it says. Will a NAG1 out of an 06 Charger fit the trans tunnel of an A-body?? Just figured if it did it would be nice to have an overdrive with the 3.91 gears. Thanks!!

How do you plan on adapting the electronics?

I have a complete 06 Charger 5.7 that I will take everything from. So it'll have the Hemi/NAG1 with the factory computer.

No first hand experience but won't the computer be looking for dozens of other inputs besides the engine and trans causing all kinds of mysterious errors?

Maybe, what else would it be looking for??

That you ought to find out before you spend nickle one on this swap.

It's a ton of stuff.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...found-this.html

NAG1 requires a speed signal from the ABS sensors to run the stock computers. Hotwire Auto Electric sells a tone ring/sensor setup, and re-flashes your stock PCM, TCM, ABS and FCM to work with it. Give them a call and ask for Chris Squier. He'll be able to answer all of your questions. I use his system in my 5.7 Hemi/NAG1 Mirada, and it works great.

No. The NAG1 is gigantic compared to a rinky dink 904 or 727. The only automatic overdrives that I'm aware of that'll fit under your tunnel without chopping the torsion bar crossmember and/or the tunnel will be the GM 200-4R or 700-R4.

This was my main concern. If it won't physically fit, I won't be putting it in. I guess I will use a 727.

Why not just cut the tunnel and make it fit ?

That actually makes sense, there is going to be a lot of re-engineering on the car and it isn't a collector's item anyway. Build it the way YOU want it.

So, does anyone make a replacement K-member that uses coilovers for the A body?

R.

AlterKation will work just fine!

What about a gear venders?

PATC gives the complete instructions on how to make a three wire A518od trans work in place of a 727.It is a good swap.

Or you could cut off the front clip, lay down new frame rails and do a complete mustang ii type front suspension. I bet you'd shed a few pounds.



He doesn't want to cut and the 518 won't fit under a stock torsion bar crossmember.

If he does cut here is an idea of what needs to be done. http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/auto/28.html

I used the AlterKtion setup in mine. I ordered it without the motor mounts welded in, so I could position the drivetrain where I wanted it. By mounting the engine approximately five inches forward of where a stock small block would mount, I was able to install the NAG1 with NO MODIFICATION to tunnel or crossmember. Of course this was a J body, so it might not work that well in your car. I had to use a rear sump pan, and truck passenger exhaust manifold, but otherwise all of the Charger stuff went in.

How did you end up controlling the NAG1?? Did you use a factory computer?

How did that affect the handling by shifting all that weight forward ?

It actually handles really well. I don't think those few inches made much of a difference, as the weight is still mostly over the center of the crossmember.

Yes, I used the Hotwire setup with the reprogrammed stock computers. It works great.

Do keep in mind that a Hemi is about 100lb lighter than an LA motor.

Yes, the Mustang II front on fabricated rails should be pretty simple and direct, definitely another way to go. Run the new frame rails back to also act as chassis stiffeners.

The NAG1 is a 5-speed transmission with 3.59 First and 0.83 Fifth. It'd be best used with something like a 2.94 or no more than a 3.23 rear. Actually for driving around one might consider a 2.76 rear gear. This has one advantage in that, with lower numerical gears the pinion gets bigger and thus stronger.

My rule of thumb for street car standard transmissions is they need at least 10:1 combined gear ratio to start at a stop sign going uphill. 10 / 3.59 = 2.79. A 2.76 gear would work, too. Cruising speed is next. 235-75-15 tires need 698 revolutions for a mile. The driveshaft at 60 mph is turning 698 rpm. Multiply times the gear ratio to get transmission output shaft speed.

2.76 x 698 = 1928 rpm at 60. 1600 in OD 2134 OD at 80
2.94 x 698 = 2052 rpm at 60, 1703 in OD 2270 OD at 80
698 x 3.23 = 2255 rpm at 60, 1871 in OD 2494 OD at 80

Numbers I could live with.

R.

Yup, I run 3.23s in mine, and it is great off the line and good on the highway, too. There's definitely room for something like 2.94 or even numerically lower, if you do a lot of highway driving.

So with my 3.91 gears, I'd be at 2300 RPM at 80 in OD??

Depending on tire size, you would be around 3000 RPM at 80mph in OD. At 2300 RPM you would be closer to 60 MPH, again depending on tire size.

A NAG1 with 3.91's will be about the equivalent of a 1:1 with 3.23's.

.83:1 OD X 3.91 = 3.245:1 final drive = 79.73 MPH @ 3100 RPM with a 28" tire.



Kevin

Look up a guy named Darious, not sure if that's spelled right, he did the whole swap in a RR but tunnels should be close between the two cars. Had quite a few headaches with that swap, especially the driveshaft hookup. Car Nag has a three wing flange but the Freightliner van uses a four wing so it can move up and down with the slip type u-joint.

Actually, the car 5.7 NAG1 uses the three bolt flange, the 6.1 and bigger uses the four bolt flange. I had a driveshaft made by The Driveshaft Shop that uses a CV joint in the front with an adapter to bolt to the three bolt flange on the tranny. They will make it to fit either three bolt or four, and the CV joint eliminates the need for a slip yoke, and makes it a lot more forgiving of driveshaft/pinion angles that may not be ideal.

Darius did the swap in a 70 GTX. I'd suspect that the trans tunnel in the B body is bigger than any A body. He did also switch to an RMS setup and cut the torsion bar crossmember and floor to clear the transmission.

If he doesn't want to cut for a 518 trans,I'm betting that front clip is out of the question.

How does just a cv joint allow for the rear movement up and down from normal driving? When that rear drops away from the body, that driveshaft has to get longer, the reason for the slip joint in every non-independent suspension.

You are aware that every LX body car has a fixed differential and independent rear suspension, right?

The high speed CV joint they designed allows for approximately an inch and a half of movement in and out, which acts like a slip joint. I've put over 7000 miles on mine in a little over a year, and it works great. I was a little skeptical at first, but they assured me it would work, and it does.

do you have a pic or link for that joint ?

I have some pics of my build on Facebook, but I don't think I have a pic specifically of the driveshaft. If you go to www.thedriveshaftshop.com , they have all of the info. I called them and e-mailed them several times before buying it, and they were really good about explaining how it works.

Ok, sounds good. Sounds like the old trunion joint from the early 60s cars.

Your link seems to go to a page that doesn't do anything.

Is this the page you meant to link?

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/

Kevin

Yes, I as thinking large car, hence the 235/75/15s.

The beauty of the NAG1 is it has the 4.32:1 (3.59 to 0.83) gear spread. So you don't need to run 3.91s. A 727 with a 3.91 has a first gear overall ratio of 9.58:1. You'd get that same amount of multiplication using the NAG1 and a 2.66 rear gear. Or the deep ratio A-998 with 3.91s = 10.71:1. Similar NAG1 rear gear would be 2.98. Plus the 2.47 OD effective ratio.

It's all just calculation. I know what I'd do if I had the budget and workspace. Unfortunately I have a stash of two-generation-old parts and they have all become obsolete. Anyone want some J heads?

R.

(actually they are so far under the workbench that I doubt I'll ever find them again)

Oops, my mistake. Yes, www.driveshaftshop.com. Thanks!