Anyone here install windshield ?

We had the 71 charger painted. Windshield was out. Thought about doing my self (with help) can you use seal/rope from parts store? Any trick/tips making sure it don't leak?
Any brand better then others?

I watched the guy replace the windshield in my (late model) truck.

He had an 18V cordless caulking gun & he used 3 tubes of black windshield sealant, ran a thick bead into the track, then 2 guys used suction cups to maneuver the windshield into place to press it down.

Probably not something I would try myself...

I did my 66 & 65 dart & used the black urethane? the auto body supply shop sold me hardening the first time around & years later for the 65 they only offered the non hardening (not sure which is preferred). I used it on the black gasket as it contacts the metal frame channel then some in the groove in the gasket channel then set the WS in place into the gasket channel. you DO need 1 or 2 helpers. if using the hardening be SURE to wipe off any excess before it sets as it ain't going anywhere if you dont. it ain't difficult, just take your time/be meticulous & STOP & regroup if something dont feel or look right. you need all sides sealed to stop the water

Do your self a favor and get a professional to do the job. They will have it done in 30 minutes. If the windshield is not set correctly the trim will not go on. One idiot set my 71 with the rope stuff and I had to pay someone else to remove it and they used urethane and then the trim fit and no leaks.

That's kind of interesting as your car came stock with the "rope stuff"...

It is pretty easy to do it yourself. Use the "rope stuff" not the urethane.

I think maybe 71 was when they started using urethane on some cars. The service manual says to use urethane.

74 is when it was federally mandated... I NEVER saw urethane in any car before that when I was doing auto glass in 75-81...

The car does not have a gasket that you use the rope trick to install
I was referring to the kind that comes in a roll. I just called it a rope sorry

Yep a roll of 3/8" Butyl tape. That is what the factory used. Not hard to do but then I do several front and rear windows a year. Never any leaks and one I did over 20 years ago is still holding strong.

Be sure the trim clips are good or replaced before the glass goes in.

That 3/8 stuff. Can get at parts store? Any brand stay away from?

I use 3M about 25.00 at NAPA.

Thank you sir

No worries.
Be sure to have the two little rubber spacer blocks at the bottom.

Are you reusing your old ws or a new one??

Orignal windshield. Yeah I don't remember if still have the Lil rubber wedges that windshield sets on or not......let just say I don't. Where can I come up with those at?

I do them all the time, one of the easiest things you can do to a car. Hard part is stripping the old sealer out and fixing the rust in the channel. When the channel is all clean and painted you install new trim clips all around and straighten and polish the trim itself. Then carefully lay the new windshield in the cavity and see where it is centered, if you are using a helper show them how the windshield is oriented from side to side or take a cellphone photo of it (remember yourself as well), Now see what you need to space it top to bottom and you can cut some spacers out of rubber (old body bumpers for example) obviously the spacers go in the bottom, you can bond the spacers in if you want but I don't. Lay a blanket on the roof and throw the windshield up there.
Paint your pinchweld primer. Lay your ribbon down, make sure you get the thick stuff not the thin or the trim won't fit. Rolll down the door windows. Then get your helper on the other side. Grab the windshield with both hands, when you get it down to say 1 foot in front of the windshield opening put one hand through the sidewindow and support the glass on the inside and with your other hand holding it on the outside, have your helper do the same. Then tell your helper to bring it close to the opening and lined up properly but about 6 inches away from it. Then guide your lower corner in and gently place it correctly the first time. Just lightly place that lower corner and then go to the other side. Grab the windshield the same way and let the helper get out of the way (or let them place it if you trust them), then place it home. After that you pat it home all around the perimeter. The sealer will go black when it touches the glass and you"ll know it is sealed, it is hard to tell along the top with a shaded screen though. Total elapsed time, less than 30 minutes.

Sheldon

When had my cuda done. They dry fit it and took masking tape from glass to roof. Cut it across. Then when payed in for last time just lined up the tape

71 RR here. I don't have the rubber spacers (lost) and be interested on where to get them as well or ideas on what to use instead.

Also, on the butyl tape. Was there a 3/8" in the front and 5/16" for the rear?

I use 3/8" and the front and 5/16" on the rear.
On the spacers they are like 3/16x3/16x1. Don't know if anyone is making them.

Last stuff I bought the spacers came with it.

Setting blocks should come with the butyl tape kit.. If not, an Auto Glass shop should have some no problem....

99% of the time 3/8 front, 5/16 rear....

Make sure you get some WS primer and apply it to the area of the glass and the pinchweld where the butyl tape kit sets.... VERY IMPORTANT....

Two people should be able to hold the glass by its edge with your fingers. One hand on the bottom and the other holding the side of WS. Communicate with each other to get an equal space on both sides, from each A pillar while setting the bottom.... It should set on the rubber/plastic setting blocks.. THEN together set the top down into the tape kit..... Apply light pressure to push the ws into the tape kit.. It wont smash it down flat, and its not supposed to , but it does need seal to the tape kit..

You can microwave the kit somewhat to soften it JUST A LITTLE.. I would try 30 seconds at a time until you soften it or just warm it a bit... It will help with the bond..
If its really hot out, disregard.....

You are dealing with a used WS... Getting it out is the hardest part... BUT there are LOTS of little tiny pits that will run ( glass will crack) so be carefull not to twist the WS or stress it while handling or installing...

Good luck

I don't have to use primer being I just had the car painted (with glass out)correct???
Car was blasted in window channels to bare metal before paint prep

The windshield primer is a black liquid put on the body that the butyl sticks to.

You and your helper need to wash your hands and not have any oil or residue on them or the glass will leak where the fingerprints are.

There must be a special kind of primer to use, correct? Type or brand? I'll be doing a install soon on my car is why I ask. Not to jump on OP topic here

So it has to have it even if surface is clean then. Guiess sell it at parts store also?

3M used to make the black GLASS PRIMER we used back in the day..

I have seen a clear type used but have never used it.....

YES a special primer for glass install... It has NOTHING to do with paint.... Really important to bond the tape kit to the painted metal pinchweld.....

Possible pic with tape measure?? Will be going into 71 charger if matters
If had some good pics I could prob by make some. Ya know the old saying. Pic worth thousand words lol

See:

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...p;vc=1&nt=2

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...;gonew=1#UNREAD

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...e=3#Post7683337

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...e=1#Post8184495

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=5161695

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...;gonew=1#UNREAD

http://blog.drivenrestorations.com/2016/03/1968-1970-b-body-mopar-windshield.html

Last one has good photos.

71 doesn't use a gasket.

Yep no gasket on 71 b body

Years ago I worked in a wrecking yard and we sold windshields. We had all the tools to take out the gasketed and glued-in windshield and we still broke half of them. Unless you are determined to have a "numbers matching" windshield to go with the spare tire that has "original air" in it, have a pro install new glass. It probably will look better and have a guarantee by the installer. JMHO

The 3M kits I buy at the parts store have spacers included too. I think I still have a bunch of spares in a drawer at the shop.
Dallas

I haven't had a chance to look at a kit yet. I need to check it out. Thank you