70 Road Runner going from drum to manual disc brakes

Can anyone provide a workable combination of master cylinder and proportioning valves to make this work? Send a link to rtoalson@me.com or call 850-866-0909. Any help would be appreciated.

I did my 69 decades ago. I used the large bore Mopar performance master and a Willwood adjustable valve

I did the conversion on my barracuda years ago and used a 1978 dodge pickup manual disc brake master cylinder. I also used a Willwood proportioning valve

Disks need more line pressure vs drums. A smaller diameter master helps. I understand a 15/16" master is about as small as you can go and still maintain adequate fluid volume. Dr Diff offers a 15/16" AL master with adapter. I run one on a PB setup.

As far as the prop valve, an adjustable valve on the rear line is best with a disc/drum setup. Wilwood or similar.

Will you like front discs on a "B" without power assist? Not so sure! It depends in part on the calipers and friction material. Stock calipers can have generous piston area and are probably best for this swap. Some aftermarket calipers have smaller piston area and really need the booster. Low cost organic pads also have more cold bite. Hi- po/high temp pads not so much and you may like the booster.

I converted my GTX over to the big 11.75" rotors, big piston slider calipers last year. It also has 11" drums out back.

Left the prop valve alone, even under hard breaking it stops even with no lockup of any particular end. The car can stop fast enough now that it will uncover the oil pickup and flash the Autometer warning light with 20 psi sender which never happened with the drums.

I need to fool about with the master, I think I had a 7/8 unit which was too soft and now I have a 1 1/8 unit which is a touch on the hard side. Have not had a chance to tinker with it further and it does work pretty good. Pads are a Wagner semi-metallic police application.