shorten C body 8&3/4 axles to fit A body housing ?

Is this doable? there are several lengths of C body axles listed in the archives. Want to send a pair in to Moser & dont know yet what lengths the ones in question are. thank you for your time.

I looked into doing the same thing. I was given a free C-body 8 3/4.(mid 60's I think) The axles are basically E-body length. They taper down right at the A-body length so they won't work. My plan is to have the housing shortened and buy Dr Diff axles. Maybe different years would have an axle that doesn't taper down.

All E-body 29 31/32"
65-69 C-body 30"

I had a set cut down from a c-body but can't remember what model/year, but they had to weld about 1/2" on the end becsuse it tapered down and respline, they worked good till i started running slicks then they started to twist the spline like a candy cane and ended up just buying moser axles, so in the long run it wasnt worth it.

The brake configuration on A-bodies is different from the others, I believe it sticks out less, so you'd have to use brake assemblies from non-A-bodies.

This question used to get asked a lot and the answer was there are some axles that can be cut down and resplined and some that can't. Many of the axles taper too early so there isn't enough material. And I'd never recommend welding on an axle shaft.

R.

Alright, iirc Moser told me way back that it needs at least 28" from outside of flange to axle tip for them to be good candidates and at least 1" of spline is needed when you are done for proper engagement. sounds like I need to get em in hand & go from there. thanks guys!

I've had Moser cut down several sets of 70-74 C and truck axles over the years.

Robert...why not just buy the correct axles from Dr. Diff?

On most axle shafts the first 3" of the spline end is necked down so only the C-body and truck 31"+ shafts are suitable to be shortened to 28" for the A-body. Even if the shaft is long enough there's not always enough meat for shortening/resplining because of shaft irregularities.

Less hassle to buy new.

More good info. I'll measure em

I have a set Mosr did. I used E body. Moser told me truck, E and late C body were the only ones they would cut.

Moser can do them for A body brakes, but then you need your drums redrilled too.

When I had a set done I called Moser and they told me what to measure (it's been too long to remember what that number is). The axles that I used came from 69-70 C-body wagons...

iirc they said hook your tape over the flange & out to the end they need (at least) 28" before it starts to neckdown

From Tom Condran's "Performance Handling for Classic Mopars":

Definitely agree, it's a no brainier for me... Why spend the money on a set of old stock axles when you can order a brand new set from Dr. Diff that are stronger than factory axles, not to mention NEW, and have green bearings.

Old trick from back in the day before people were making new axles. These days I wouldn't bother. Kind of like welding up a factory crank to build a stroker motor. We did it 30 years ago but I wouldn't do it today.

Curious, Are Dr. Diffs axles able to use Standard tapered bearings too?

I can agree with most all of that, but if I were doing it I would go for a hybrid and opt for the Phord "Torino" big wheel bearings, Phord housing ends and use the racing Phord 11" brake drum kits for the rear that are brand new complete. That way you get better wheel bearings that are prepacked and sealed, new rear brakes that are probably a lot more than you need with a parking brake that is easy to adapt to your existing cables and a bolt pattern that will fit the BBP wheels you will want. We can continue the 8.75" discussion vs. Phord 9" vs Dana 60 if you must, but at least we now have the axle issue settled. JMHO.

My axles are compatible with Mopar Green ball bearings, Mopar Set 7 tapered roller bearings and Ford Set 20 tapered roller bearings, all of which I stock.

So with a C body axle and 11 x 2-1/2 inch brakes, what width do you need to have the housing cut to, in an A body ,to place the wheel in a stock location? Assuming 15" x 6" 3-3/4" back spacing ,4.5" bolt circle steel wheels.

Using B-C Body and later A body brake drums and backing plate have no bearing on width. (maybe a small amount being only the thickness of the drum at the axle flange) The axle flange dimension is the dimension you need from left to right.

Its not 1985 any more...there are better options out there than reusing 40-50 year old parts...

This chart may help with what you need. Looks like 51.4" to the housing flange? http://www.mymopar.com/forum_images/rearaxledims.jpg

GAWD!!! I wish someone would outlaw that chart, it's everywhere and mostly wrong.

All '66-'72 A-body housings are 52 5/8" wide. Using the BBP axles in an A-body housing will increase the overall width 5/8" so, to keep the original overall width, you'd have to make the housing 52.0".

John , thank you. What is it about the BBP axles that make it 5/8" wider?

Total brake offset for '65 and newer 5 x 4.5" Mopar axles measures 2.525" when installed. The 5 x 4" version measures 2.25".

Thank you Dr. Diff.

Not to rob Cass of any business, but I would respline a set of C body axle shafts just like I would bore and reuse a 40-50 year old engine block or crank. Why? It's cheap and more importantly I'M CHEAP!!! An hour of shop time compared to brand new shafts? Unless you are going to stand on this car, I don't see any reason not to give grandpa's old axles a new lease on life.

Mopar Action did a great story on this back in the 90's and it's likely available at their website. I got mine out of a 69 Fury. Go for it. If you can't get the thing together, call the Dr.

So, how much does it cost for someone to respline a set of axles? You have to figure in shipping both ways too. Not everyone has someone close by that can/will do it.

Moser in Portland Indiana. $125 (per pair) plus the ride (both ways)

another vote for dr diff
I used to respline them back in the day
cheaper to buy them from the dr and your done with studs & brgs.

If I didn't already have em I would call the Doc

Back in the day when I worked in the wrecking yard we used to mark the end of the aisles with axles that we would pound in the ground and spray paint with fluorescent colors. When we finally closed the yard, we crushed all the cars that were left, pulled the axles out of the ground and sent everything to the scrap mill. The C body axles were a favorite for the task because we had so many of them and they never sold.

You should send that sign over to the parts store post in the general section...

Glad you liked it, feel free to use it when it seems right!!!