Quote:
Anyways, for parts...it uses a wilwood 3/4" bore master cylinder with integrated resivaur (WIL-260-1304 from summit), a wilwood pull style slave cylinder WIL-260-1333. You'll also need to order another 5/16-24 spherical rod end to use with the master cylinder. To connect the two i used some standard brake tubing, and a front drum brake hose that i had taken off my car...although you could use some braided steel line (likely -3). Once you get that, you'll need a bracket to bolt the slave to the side cover of the transmission. I used the lower row of bolts and an 80's dodge truck motor mount that was cut in half. I've been thinking about changing it to bolt to the transmission cross member because the setup i have now seems to have caused a leak. Then, you'll need to drill a new hole in the clutch fork closer to the transmission than the original hole. I'd say its about 1/2 way between the original hole and the bellhousing.
to mount the slave cylinder, i had to relocate my voltage regulator to a slightly different spot (mine is now above the pinch weld in the engine bay, instead of next to the master cylinder). Then you'll need to mount the master cylinder at the same height as the master cylinder for the brakes. I drilled the holes tight and just hammered in some proper length bolts from the other side for studs. You'll need to remove your pedal assembly and drill a hole in it at the same relative place on the clutch pedal as it is for the brake pedal. Then you just have to install the spherical rod end, adjust it so you have a small amount of freeplay before it works, bleed the system, and you're done.
hope that helps you. My engine is out so its difficult for me to get really descriptive pictures
