2600-3000 stall converter... Which brand?

I need to know if this is for street only, street and strip or race only before making any suggestions Any idea of how much HP, torque and weight? The more information you can provide the converter company the better It is easy to get a cheap converter,just shop around for the cheapest one Getting a good or excellent converter is a little harder Especially with your deal Take your time and do what your doing now (research)and then call each of those company and talk to them, take notes, and then decides once your sure you have the one(the correct company) you want when you place the order Good luck

I asked the same question about a year ago and ended up going with Dynamic (Frank Lupo) Converter. Like others have mentioned, there are quality converters available from several sources which will serve you well too.

When I ordered mine, they were offering a "winter special" price. They will ask for your car's specs and tailor a converter to meet your intentions. Comparing what they charged, I felt their price was very reasonable.

I upgraded from a B&M 2400 Holeshot which performed very well I will add for an off the shelf, 25 year old converter.

This is in a 340/416, 727/3:91, E-body street car that I take to the track 3-4 times a year.

I have talked to a couple companies now. Although they probably have a superior product, I can't justify a $900 converter in a transmission I'm building myself. $400-$550 is what I have in mind.

"Car" is a Ram 50 truck. I built the engine. Has smog heads from Mccandless, shaved .020, 2.02/1.60 stainless valves, pocket porting. Air gap intake, speed pro flat tops, mopar .484 cam (probably go bigger soon), edelbrock carb, shorty headers. TCI kit going into the trans next week.

Weight is approx 3000. (Probably end up less than that). Narrowed 8-3/4 rear, putting a 4:30 or 4:56 gear in. Has 29x18.5 Hoosiers and a 4 link rear.

It will go to the strip 5 or so weekends each year. I will cruise town with it too. Heck, I'll drive the damn thing to work for the fun of it.

Laine

78 cop 440 - and this is from the service book that I'm looking at in front of me - has a factory stall speed of 2500-2800. They did this to help offset vehicle weight and smog effect. I know it's a long shot, but if you had one of those laying around, give it a shot. That's a good factory H/D part. I would imagine a 76 and 77 would be the same. Just a suggestion. I know there's a weight and perhaps even a torque difference but if you're making pretty good power, you might get right into the range you're looking for

I have a factory converter labeled "High". If all else fails I could have it cleaned and put it in. I think I'd rather get a new though. Looks like I'll have to just order one from summit or jegs. B&M, Hugh's, TCI....

Does it have a P/N on it? I wouldn't mind doing some research for you

I'm happy with my custom built Ultimate converter, but it was expensive. My old Hughes converter was good also. I don't know your combination, but the truck looks cool. Call some of these companies mentioned and see what they recommend. I used a few "off the shelf" hi-stall converters that were OK, but usually a bit loose for street driving. The "custom" 9" converter Lenny at Ultimate built was exactly what I was looking for for my street/strip car. Flash stall to 5,000 RPM, but so tight on the street you can't tell it is a high stall converter.

Yeah, after talking to him, his converters sound like just what I'm after. He said it would be a 3000-3500 in a 9.5" converter. But I just can't make myself spend that kind of money on it right now.

I'm not trying to be "cheap", but I'm not going all out either. The is pretty much just a "look cool, go fast" toy for me anyway.

Laine

JMO,

In an auto car, it's hard to find a component as singularly important as the torque converter.

Guys spend thousands on engines and upgrade, then try to run a $200 converter. No surprise when or why it runs like a gimpy dog.

Nobody like Dynamic anymore?

Dynamic is closed until the 12th.

I have a PTC 9.5" that does exactly what Kenney said it would. He will ask all kind osf questions about you car and engine to get it right. I asked for 2500 stall for a street/strip car and I got exactly that.

I always wondered if a high stall lockup converter could give you the best of both worlds. Say around 3500, but in street mode, there's no reason it couldn't engage the clutch at 2000 rpm and stay locked up until you slow back down. Is there anything like that out there?

I like my Dynamic.I put a 9 1/2" dynamic in mine and took out the 11" 2200(observed) stall antique fairbanks.It was built for the 470 I'm building, but is running behind the old 383 for now.Haven't had it on the strip since, but if I short shift second gear under boost, it "stalls" at 4700 r.p.m.Right where I hoped it would.If it flashes there behind the 470 I'll be replacing an 8 3/4 soon after the next strip outing. At 65 m.p.h. cruise,(2770 r.p.m. by the math) it runs 50 r.p.m. higher than the old Fairbanks.It drives very nice and doesn't seem like a "high stall" converter at all after the car rolls about 3 feet from a dead stop.Any of the quality converter places can build you something like this, but my decision was heavily influenced by the price difference I was quoted.

After a few more calls and some more reading, I ordered a converter today. Decided on a Hughes Performance 3500 stall. It's a 10" unit and should do the trick for me and didn't break the bank.

Laine

Another point to really consider alot is if you plan to race it alot. To me thats a big difference because if you dont plan to race much then it has alot to do in how much money you spend. And you know if your not going to race it you can spend less money and not buy a top dollar race converter. The converter was very important in my build as I knew I was not going to race as much as I really wanted to but I wanted top perforrmance as I wanted it to work real good when I did race it and I knew I was going to spend the extra to get a top converter. Ron

You make a good point. We have a drag stip (kearney raceway) here in Nebraska, pretty close to me. I'll take it there to dial it all in, but I doubt it will truly fit into any class. Wasn't built for that. So, I'll race it when I can. They also do 1/8 mile drags here in hastings occasionally. Might be fun.

Biggest thing is, I must beat my older brother. Shouldn't be hard with this thing. He ran a 455 in a ratty Firebird on nitrous. Best time was an 11.13. I need to whoop him with a Mopar small block and no nitrous. Might take a cam change later on to do it. Maybe some more porting.... Whatever. Can't lose to a Pontiac.

Laine

If you spent 500-550ish on that converter, a custom one would have been ~100 more. More stall, tighter cruise from the custom.

Don't be surprised if that advertised 3500 stall isn't. I have a couple of those hughes convertes behind SB's. None stalled to advertised, most were 500 rpm short.

You're likely going to need in the 500hp range and great hook to get an 11.00 timeslip. Get it light and on a diet.

Sounds like a pretty cool D50.

With this engine as it is, your probably right on the stall speed. ET sounds like what I'm expecting initially too. Gotta start somewhere so I know where to go!

Also, wife said I can't work on any of my other cars/trucks till I finish this one! :-). Gotta get it done!

Laine

No one mentioned...

http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/

I spoke with Andre and he asked a lot of questions. I feel confident in my choice.
I went with a 9-1/2" Street Edge 3200 stall for $490. Just showed up Wednesday, less than 2 weeks after order date. I'll have it installed in a few weeks