Moparts
Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar
Posted By: 440PURSUIT
Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/06/14 05:19 AM
What is the preferred Coolant to use these Days?
Dexcool? Regular Prestone?
My little Scamp Street/Strip is ready to roll. No heater Box.
318 w Magnum Heads, Aluminum Radiator.
It has a 180 Thermostat and I will use Water Wetter...
Thanks
Posted By: Pacnorthcuda
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/06/14 05:23 AM
Use regular green Prestone, change it every 2-3 years.
Dexcool? You've. Got to be kidding!!!
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/06/14 05:24 AM
Quote:
What is the preferred Coolant to use these Days? Dexcool? Regular Prestone?
If the Dexcool is the orange stuff,reportedly it is the worst. regular Prestone green is good
Posted By: zrxkawboy
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/06/14 05:56 AM
Find some old-school green. NAPA sells it, among others.
If you're talking about Prestone AMM (All Makes/Models), it is a Dex-clone.
Posted By: therocks
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/06/14 02:02 PM
Dexcool isnt the All Makes /Models coolant.Dexcool is dexcool period.Most stores either have green or AMM which is for anything.Dex is bad stuff and cant be mixed with green.At the shop we ran the newer AMM for years.Never a problem.Its been in our cars for at least 8 years now.We change every 3 years or so.Rocky
Posted By: 440PURSUIT
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/06/14 02:35 PM
Thanks, Engine and Additive Technology is evolving a lot these days. Just checking if a modern Coolant is preferred....
C
Posted By: DAYCLONA
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/06/14 03:55 PM
Quote:
Thanks, Engine and Additive Technology is evolving a lot these days. Just checking if a modern Coolant is preferred....
C
I've been running the Zerex G-05 with 10 oz of RedLine Water Wetter for about 10 years in the toys...the Zerex is clear in color, and not sticky like the green stuff, or staining, plus with the water wetter it knocked 20 degrees of my running temp...I run a 50% water/50% Zerex
Mike
Posted By: Hemi_Joel
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/06/14 08:48 PM
I'm going to start switching over to Evans waterless coolant. Last forever and completely prevent corrosion
Posted By: autoxcuda
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/06/14 09:07 PM
I run distilled water and additives. No overheating, no rust, no electrolysis. Been three years in car.
With water only I run 1 bottle of Justice Brothers Super Radiator Cooler and 1 bottle of Justice Brothers Cooling System Protectant (if no anti-freeze).
No freezing here in So Cal. No need for anti freeze properties.
Water removes heat from a motor better than anti-freeze (propylene or ethylene glycol)
Posted By: dogdays
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/06/14 11:20 PM
In my lower-priced vehicles I have been running RV plumbing antifreeze plus a bottle of antifreeze rejuvenator. I can usually buy it for $4.00 a gallon, it's premixed 50/50 propylene glycol with a corrosion inhibitor.
My local WallyWorld stocks a huge amount every year and clearances it out every Spring. It does have that weird pink color, though.....
R.
Posted By: Adam71Charger
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/07/14 12:45 AM
Quote:
I'm going to start switching over to Evans waterless coolant. Last forever and completely prevent corrosion
1st time Ive heard of this, is it a new product? Does anyone here use it? Looks interesting
Posted By: FJR doc
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/07/14 02:08 AM
Since my engine and entire cooling system is going to be new or rebuilt, I've decided to go with Evans waterless. It's certainly not cheap but I feel that the benefits and longevity are well worth it.
Posted By: terzmo
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/07/14 02:15 AM
Quote:
What is the preferred Coolant to use these Days?
Dexcool? Regular Prestone?
My little Scamp Street/Strip is ready to roll. No heater Box.
318 w Magnum Heads, Aluminum Radiator.
It has a 180 Thermostat and I will use Water Wetter...
Thanks
prestone in that yellow jug or the stuff in the blue jug...as long as it's green...orange crap is for new junk...50/50 mixture
Posted By: ahy
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/07/14 03:53 AM
Green is good. I like the Prestone extended life universal (light) green. I use it in everything from '47 to current DD's. Complete changes or top off. It seems to treat both aluminum and iron very well over time. The Chrysler formula is supposed to be good also but I never go out of the way to get it.
I have helped friends deal with "Dexcool'ed" vehicles. They experienced both corrosion and plugging. All I can say is stay away from it.
Posted By: zrxkawboy
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/07/14 05:06 AM
Sorry, guys, but Prestone AMM is a Dexclone. Both (AMM & Dexcool) are OAT (organic acid technology) coolants that contain 2-EH (the plasticizer that attacked the LIM gaskets on GM engines). It is most certainly NOT a conventional green-type coolant.
If you can't find conventional green, I would use G-05 after a thorough flush. G-05 is rated for 5 years like the Dexclones, but is a HOAT and does not contain 2-EH.
Posted By: roe
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/07/14 05:12 AM
I use the green Autozone extended life in the orange bottle and water wetter with distilled water. Haven't seen anything to make me change. I buy the full strength and cut it 50/50 then add the water wetter.
Posted By: kentj340
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/07/14 09:02 AM
Quote:
Water removes heat from a motor better than anti-freeze (propylene or ethylene glycol)
Snot true.
This misinformation is specifically addressed thoroughly in the book “Engine Cooling Systems” by Bohacz. Engine performance is lost due to water’s low boiling point. And engine damage is possible from unremoved heat.
Some may believe that water is the best coolant since it has a specific heat of 1. That would be true if an engine was only run at idle or low power output such as cruising. Water does an excellent job of cooling an engine until the load is increased, as in hard acceleration, and the water starts to boil in the cylinder head. When boiling in the cylinder head happens, the water stays cooler since there is less heat rejected into it, but the metal surface temperature of the cylinder head will be higher than it should be.
Your coolant temperature gauge may show normal or even cooler while your combustion chamber metal is overheating, because steam in the heads is a lousy coolant, and the higher heat around the combustion chamber metal never makes its way to the temperature sending unit or the radiator. A coolant with a low boiling point causes cooler temperature gauge readings because it is removing less heat from the engine. What you see on your dash gauge is the coolant temperature, but what you really need to worry about is the combustion chamber metal temperature.
An engine using water as a coolant and under constant load such as climbing a hill will have the coolant in the cylinder head be either in nucleate or crisis boiling states. Boiling water does not remove enough heat and requires detuning the spark advance and carb settings to make up for its low boiling point. Ethylene glycol/water and especially Evans have greater ability to transfer heat away from combustion chamber metal than water due in part to their higher boiling points and less tendency to form vapor bubbles. Evans, which boils at over 375 degrees, tends to stay in a liquid state under engine load and not form vapor filled bubbles next to combustion chamber metal that poorly conducts heat as does water when boiling.
Water with a specific heat of 1 boils at 257 degrees at 15 psi. 50-50 EG/water boils at 264 degrees at 15 psi. While it is true that Evans has a specific heat of about 0.7, the fact that it boils at over 100 degrees higher means it removes far more heat than either water or EG/water. Not only does it boil at over 100 degrees higher, it also has less surface friction allowing gas bubbles to release easier, recondense faster, and conduct more heat.
Advantages of Evans, a mix of mainly PG and some EG:
Contains no water and never causes corrosion or deposits.
Never needs changing (even though the color may darken over time).
Conducts more heat away from combustion chamber metal than anything else.
Allows a more aggressive engine build and tune-up.
Does not need the cooling system to be under pressure to raise the boiling point. In fact, due to almost no vapor pressure, a closed system won't pressure up.
Should never expand and boil over. You can remove the radiator cap at operating temperature with no result.
Very low surface tension works well in copper tube radiators and slightly decreases the load on the water pump.
Very low vapor pressure means very low loss from evaporation.
Evans which is a straight pour into the engine, contains no water, and is not mixed with water. I bought 4 gallons of Evans for under $160 on Amazon including freight, so it is pricey, but since you never have to change it, if you live long enough, some day it will be cheaper on paper than EG.
Posted By: dogdays
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/07/14 06:37 PM
Welcome to The Church of Evans.
Like many of the world's religions, the Church of Evans helps one to feel better about life. It offers a solution to some of life's problems, giving a means of coping.
The Church of Evans has very few requirements:
1. One must be willing to make a significant financial contribution to join.
2. One must never doubt the truth of the Church of Evans.
3. One must proselytize whenever the opportunity arises.
So here's my take on the Church of Evans: Many of its precepts are true indeed.
Water does boil at 212F at standard pressure.
Nucleate boiling does greatly reduce the heat transfer from cylinder head to coolant, in the area, however small, that the boiling is occurring .
However, some of its advantages are overstated.
Water in a cooling system is at 15 or so psig, making the boiling temperature more like 252F.
Nucleate boiling is much less common than the Church would have you believe. Water expands something like 1100 times in volume from liquid to vapor. Significant boiling will result in coolant being expelled from the system, i.e. boiling over.
I have had several loss-of-coolant events in my life. Heater hose, bad hose clamp, electric fan failure, etc. Lucky for me that I didn't have to replace $160 worth of coolant each time.
I do use propylene glycol in 50/50 mixture in my less expensive vehicles. It's known as RV plumbing antifreeze. I buy it for $4 a gallon at Walmart. Add a bottle of antifreeze renewer and I'm set to go.
There must be a MSDS for Evans coolant online, and no it doesn't contain holy water. Read it and see what you're paying for.
R.
Posted By: autoxcuda
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/07/14 07:17 PM
Quote:
Quote:
Water removes heat from a motor better than anti-freeze (propylene or ethylene glycol)
Snot true.
This misinformation is specifically addressed thoroughly in the book “Engine Cooling Systems” by Bohacz. Engine performance is lost due to water’s low boiling point. And engine damage is possible from unremoved heat.
Some may believe that water is the best coolant since it has a specific heat of 1. That would be true if an engine was only run at idle or low power output such as cruising. Water does an excellent job of cooling an engine until the load is increased, as in hard acceleration, and the water starts to boil in the cylinder head. When boiling in the cylinder head happens, the water stays cooler since there is less heat rejected into it, but the metal surface temperature of the cylinder head will be higher than it should be.
Your coolant temperature gauge may show normal or even cooler while your combustion chamber metal is overheating, because steam in the heads is a lousy coolant, and the higher heat around the combustion chamber metal never makes its way to the temperature sending unit or the radiator. A coolant with a low boiling point causes cooler temperature gauge readings because it is removing less heat from the engine. What you see on your dash gauge is the coolant temperature, but what you really need to worry about is the combustion chamber metal temperature.
An engine using water as a coolant and under constant load such as climbing a hill will have the coolant in the cylinder head be either in nucleate or crisis boiling states. Boiling water does not remove enough heat and requires detuning the spark advance and carb settings to make up for its low boiling point. Ethylene glycol/water and especially Evans have greater ability to transfer heat away from combustion chamber metal than water due in part to their higher boiling points and less tendency to form vapor bubbles. Evans, which boils at over 375 degrees, tends to stay in a liquid state under engine load and not form vapor filled bubbles next to combustion chamber metal that poorly conducts heat as does water when boiling.
Water with a specific heat of 1 boils at 257 degrees at 15 psi. 50-50 EG/water boils at 264 degrees at 15 psi. While it is true that Evans has a specific heat of about 0.7, the fact that it boils at over 100 degrees higher means it removes far more heat than either water or EG/water. Not only does it boil at over 100 degrees higher, it also has less surface friction allowing gas bubbles to release easier, recondense faster, and conduct more heat.
Advantages of Evans, a mix of mainly PG and some EG:
Contains no water and never causes corrosion or deposits.
Never needs changing (even though the color may darken over time).
Conducts more heat away from combustion chamber metal than anything else.
Allows a more aggressive engine build and tune-up.
Does not need the cooling system to be under pressure to raise the boiling point. In fact, due to almost no vapor pressure, a closed system won't pressure up.
Should never expand and boil over. You can remove the radiator cap at operating temperature with no result.
Very low surface tension works well in copper tube radiators and slightly decreases the load on the water pump.
Very low vapor pressure means very low loss from evaporation.
Evans which is a straight pour into the engine, contains no water, and is not mixed with water. I bought 4 gallons of Evans for under $160 on Amazon including freight, so it is pricey, but since you never have to change it, if you live long enough, some day it will be cheaper on paper than EG.
I was just talking water vs anti-freeze. Not Evans. If anti-freeze did what Evans claims, there would be no reason for Evans to exist.
Like you said, under idling and cruise water is better than anti-freeze. And that is where most of the cooling complaints here happen.
As stated, 50/50 anti-freeze only boils 7 degrees higher than straight 100% water. I did not suggest to run 100% water though. I run additive with water. Remembering from chemistry, any solution in water will increase the boiling point some.
The additives I add to water reduce surface tension, reduce vapor bubble formation, resist electrolysis, anti- rust, and reduce friction.
The additives do not increase the boiling point 100 degrees like Evans does. Neither does 50/50 anti-freeze.
Posted By: Mr.Yuck
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/07/14 08:47 PM
Chris if you are going to race it leave the WW in until winter. That way if you blow a hose or something at the track it won't make a huge mess or sping you out. I have had zero issues w/ it and my car runs 180 or less.
Posted By: autoxcuda
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/07/14 09:21 PM
Quote:
Chris if you are going to race it leave the WW in until winter. That way if you blow a hose or something at the track it won't make a huge mess or sping you out. I have had zero issues w/ it and my car runs 180 or less.
Here's a test of Radiator Additives comparing Justice Brothers, DEI, Redline, Water Wetter, and HyperLube: CLICK TO VIEW TEST
Justice Brothers Super Radiator Cool brought the coolest temperatures:
Posted By: kentj340
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/09/14 08:43 AM
Quote:
Welcome to The Church of Evans.
So, for grins lets take a look at some combustion chamber temperatures.
From an SAE paper on a 2.2 L 4-cyl, 1993:
http://papers.sae.org/930217/
"Average combustion chamber surface temperatures ranged from 130 degrees C to 248 degrees C, while peak combustion chamber surface temperatures ranged from 142 degrees C to 258 degrees C for WOT conditions."
In Fahrenheit, that's average 266 - 478 degrees and peak 288 - 496 degrees.
These are surface temperatures inside a combustion chamber, so you'd expect the adjacent metal surfaces inside the water jacket to be somewhat but not a whole lot less.
Numbers I have seen in other studies for combustion chamber surface temperatures were not quite this high, but my conclusion is that the water jacket metal near the combustion chambers is well above the boiling point of 50-50 EG/water at 15 psi, especially when under load as in hard acceleration. So there has to be boiling going on at normal engine operating temperature, which helps explain why the system pressures up.
Yes, if paying the Evans price makes you feel like a sucker, then don't pay the Evans price, but Evans certainly does have advantages. When I get my Mopar restored the way I want it, I'll probably be too senile and decrepit to crawl under it any more to change the antifreeze. No more changes, no more pressure in the system to wear out the radiator and hoses - that's what I want.
If somebody didn't get the message, there is no pressure in the system with Evans, no blown hoses, no boil overs. You only buy it once so long as you don't crash the car.
And the use of Evans will help decide my compression ratio, cam, distributor curve, etc. during engine build.
Posted By: Spaceman Spiff
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 08/09/14 04:09 PM
I have a friend hat used Evans in his lsx turbo mustang.
It brought down the temp 10* over what it was before....but his oil temp went UP 22*.
The heat has to go somewhere....
Posted By: Ray S
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 12/27/22 11:34 PM
I've been running the Zerex G-05 with 10 oz of RedLine Water Wetter for about 10 years in the toys...the Zerex is clear in color, and not sticky like the green stuff, or staining, plus with the water wetter it knocked 20 degrees of my running temp...I run a 50% water/50% Zerex
Mike
I read a bunch on coolants lately; threads here and on
BITOGThe application is the 1971 413-1 RV with OEM brass/solder radiator. Since these radiators now go for about $700 I'd like to be sure the coolant protects it.
It also has the industrial heads with extra cooling since it runs WOT for 5-10 minutes at a time pushing 11,000 lbs.
This sounds like a reasonable product combo.
Opinions?
Posted By: 451Mopar
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 12/28/22 09:33 AM
I just use the green Prestone / Zerex concentrate and distilled water. Don't use tap water.
Posted By: TJP
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 12/28/22 06:00 PM
I just use the green Prestone / Zerex concentrate and distilled water. Don't use tap water.
Posted By: Ray S
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 12/28/22 08:22 PM
I just use the green Prestone / Zerex concentrate and distilled water. Don't use tap water.
Yeah, we have well water here, not as bad as Colorado water, but still a lot of dissolved minerals.
Posted By: moparx
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 12/28/22 08:23 PM
I just use the green Prestone / Zerex concentrate and distilled water. Don't use tap water.
i also like to use a sacrificial anode in the system, especially if aluminum components are used, such as cylinder heads.
the pictures are of a 1933 OEM flathead ford cylinder head [one of a pair i picked up at a swap meet to use as garage art] that show extreme galvanic corrosion.
as i understand, these heads were a one year only item, as they corroded badly using the "water of the day", and were replaced with iron heads until flathead production ceased.
this does not say or imply anything about the available aftermarket aluminum heads, such as navarro, sharps, or others.
i just thought these pictures may be of interest.
Posted By: Ray S
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 12/29/22 11:26 PM
@moparx I've seen that on 3cyl Geo heads as well
Posted By: PurpleBeeper
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 01/01/23 03:52 PM
I am literally an anti-freeze scientist with access to $100k anti-freeze testing and analysis equipment.
1. Evans is snake oil. It is DexCool concentrate (not diluted 50/50). Water removes heat better than propylene/ethylene glycol. The book referenced in an earlier post is wrong....sorry.
2. In general, any coolant that is rated ASTM D3306 will be fine in a car.
3. Don't mix coolants
4. Use distilled or de-ionized water
5. Water Wetter is simply the organic corrosion inhibitor package of antifreeze. Water Wetter sucks vs. aluminum corrosion (Royal Purple's claims about this are correct - I ran the same testing an verified it). The idea about "surfactants allow more intimate water contact with the radiator so it cools better" is 100% [censored]. Those surfactants just make your coolant foamy (not good)
6. Water Wetter/Puple Ice/etc should be blended with water, not antifreeze, if you want them to do what they claim. The real "cooling trick" is removing ethylene glycol and replacing it with water (see #1)
7. The closest to the original Mopar coolant is "Peak Green"..... a very specific Peak with the name "Peak Green", not just any Peak product that happens to be green
8. COLOR of antifreeze means ABSOLUTELY NOTHING.... it'd dye... it's food coloring.... I've manufactured many, many products that are exactly the same, but only have a different dye added to them. Insider tip....Royal Purple's Purple Ice (purple) & Lucas' Super Coolant (blue) are identical in every way except the color (no [censored]). They both protect aluminum better than water wetter, but don't last quite as long (a few years or so)
9. About half the coolant sold today is some form of DexCool. The "Death Cool" thing is long gone and was related to gasket material not being resistant to 2-ethylhexanoic acid (DexCool) and that problem was fixed 20 yrs ago.
Posted By: PurpleBeeper
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 01/01/23 04:01 PM
Not a good mixture in my opinion. G-5 is a "HOAT" and not really compatible (kinda sorta) with the "OAT" water wetter. FYI Purple Ice and Super Coolant are both HOAT types...... BUT none of the additives really do anything when added on top of 50/50 antifreeze (the way most people use them....incorrectly)
Posted By: Ray S
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 01/01/23 05:30 PM
Not a good mixture in my opinion. G-5 is a "HOAT" and not really compatible (kinda sorta) with the "OAT" water wetter. FYI Purple Ice and Super Coolant are both HOAT types...... BUT none of the additives really do anything when added on top of 50/50 antifreeze (the way most people use them....incorrectly)
Thanks for the info
I follow BITOG and they talk about silicates
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/does-anyone-still-make-the-old-green-coolant.195444/for a 71 is more or less silicate "better"?
Posted By: Ray S
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 01/01/23 05:57 PM
The FSM also calls for Chrysler Rust Resistor and soft water in warm climate, as well as 190 skirted tstat.
While on the topic of coolant, the 70-72 FSM says 70-71 use 7psi cap and have simple overflow, but after Nov 1 1972 use a 16lb cap and a closed reservoir.
Since I added a reservoir can I use a 16 cap, or are there other pressure considerations? FSM says to keep pressure under 20psi when cleaning or testing, for all models...
Posted By: TJP
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 01/01/23 07:56 PM
I am literally an anti-freeze scientist with access to $100k anti-freeze testing and analysis equipment.
1. Evans is snake oil. It is DexCool concentrate (not diluted 50/50). Water removes heat better than propylene/ethylene glycol. The book referenced in an earlier post is wrong....sorry.
2. In general, any coolant that is rated ASTM D3306 will be fine in a car.
3. Don't mix coolants
4. Use distilled or de-ionized water
5. Water Wetter is simply the organic corrosion inhibitor package of antifreeze. Water Wetter sucks vs. aluminum corrosion (Royal Purple's claims about this are correct - I ran the same testing an verified it). The idea about "surfactants allow more intimate water contact with the radiator so it cools better" is 100% [censored]. Those surfactants just make your coolant foamy (not good)
6. Water Wetter/Puple Ice/etc should be blended with water, not antifreeze, if you want them to do what they claim. The real "cooling trick" is removing ethylene glycol and replacing it with water (see #1)
7. The closest to the original Mopar coolant is "Peak Green"..... a very specific Peak with the name "Peak Green", not just any Peak product that happens to be green
8. COLOR of antifreeze means ABSOLUTELY NOTHING.... it'd dye... it's food coloring.... I've manufactured many, many products that are exactly the same, but only have a different dye added to them. Insider tip....Royal Purple's Purple Ice (purple) & Lucas' Super Coolant (blue) are identical in every way except the color (no [censored]). They both protect aluminum better than water wetter, but don't last quite as long (a few years or so)
9. About half the coolant sold today is some form of DexCool. The "Death Cool" thing is long gone and was related to gasket material not being resistant to 2-ethylhexanoic acid (DexCool) and that problem was fixed 20 yrs ago.
THANK YOU SIR
While I am not an antifreeze or chemical engineer my background in engineering is quite broad and I was TAUGHT before one can make claims with any validity. The tests need to be repeated a minimum of 5 times back to back in a controlled laboratory environment.
I have tried many "special" products over the years (water wetter, high flow water pumps) as well as many others and found MOST of the claims to be falsehoods. But they do what they were conceived for, to get $$ from your wallet to theirs.
years back one of the magazines published an article on Total seal piston rings. they made 3 pulls on their dyno mule that had God knows how many runs on it and established a baseline of 400 HP. They proceeded to hone and re ring the motor. New pulls netted 410HP, WOW a 2.5% gain from just changing to total seal rings. BULLS--T. There were so many holes in that claim that it would take a while to type out. But I'll bet there was a spike in the sales of Total seal rings
Posted By: Ray S
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 01/01/23 08:57 PM
years back one of the magazines published an article on Total seal piston rings. they made 3 pulls on their dyno mule that had God knows how many runs on it and established a baseline of 400 HP. They proceeded to hone and re ring the motor. New pulls netted 410HP, WOW a 2.5% gain from just changing to total seal rings. BULLS--T. There were so many holes in that claim that it would take a while to type out. But I'll bet there was a spike in the sales of Total seal rings
Drifting off a bit
, but I did see some good looking tests I believe where racers use crankcase vacuum pumps. Apparently enough gain to warrant a number of professional-cost pumps for them at $300 to $1200...
https://inthegaragemedia.com/horsepower-from-nothinghttps://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/tech-how-external-vacuum-pumps-free-up-horsepowerI'd opt for the passive exhaust version if I get around to new pipes.
Posted By: TJP
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 01/02/23 02:09 AM
years back one of the magazines published an article on Total seal piston rings. they made 3 pulls on their dyno mule that had God knows how many runs on it and established a baseline of 400 HP. They proceeded to hone and re ring the motor. New pulls netted 410HP, WOW a 2.5% gain from just changing to total seal rings. BULLS--T. There were so many holes in that claim that it would take a while to type out. But I'll bet there was a spike in the sales of Total seal rings
Drifting off a bit
, but I did see some good looking tests I believe where racers use crankcase vacuum pumps. Apparently enough gain to warrant a number of professional-cost pumps for them at $300 to $1200...
https://inthegaragemedia.com/horsepower-from-nothinghttps://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/tech-how-external-vacuum-pumps-free-up-horsepowerI'd opt for the passive exhaust version if I get around to new pipes.
My point and example was not to believe everything you read IE: Coolant related. MOST articles are slanted to encourage the unknowing to buy the magazines ADVERTISERS products. This is a payback to justify the outrageous prices they charge for said advertising. So, I think you went off a cliff
Posted By: 451Mopar
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 01/02/23 03:43 AM
This is the Recycling place I take used coolant to:
https://clearchoiceantifreeze.com/capabilities/They have some decent info on their website
Posted By: Ray S
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 01/02/23 03:00 PM
yep, likely snake oil, especially if the motor is 3k rpm as opposed to 8k. Also, seal distortion is a potential issue.
As per main topic, I'll stick with enough G05 or Zerex to prevent freezing here.
Still wondering if I can switch to a 16lb cap.
Posted By: moparx
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 01/02/23 04:42 PM
i ran a 14lb cap on the original radiator in my charger. had no problems with doing that.
if your system is in good condition, i see no reason you would have any problems with a 16lb cap.
for a long time, 7lb caps were what everyone recommended. and every time you parked, the car seemed to puke.
my recommendation is to hide a good recovery tank somewhere, run a 16lb cap, and enjoy the benefits of a closed system while looking factory stock.
just my opinion. your mileage will vary.
Posted By: Ray S
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 01/02/23 04:58 PM
i ran a 14lb cap on the original radiator in my charger. had no problems with doing that.
if your system is in good condition, i see no reason you would have any problems with a 16lb cap.
for a long time, 7lb caps were what everyone recommended. and every time you parked, the car seemed to puke.
my recommendation is to hide a good recovery tank somewhere, run a 16lb cap, and enjoy the benefits of a closed system while looking factory stock.
just my opinion. your mileage will vary.
It does gurgle after climbing a mountain and shutting down, even after idling to cool down.
I already have a tank hooked up - I'll try a pressure test soon. The 72 radiator and hoses are the same part # so it seems it would be fine.
Odd that they use a 16psi once a reservoir was added - seems backwards.
Posted By: moparx
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 01/02/23 07:04 PM
i think most new stuff use a 16lb cap. and by new, i'm talking about the OEM 4-ear cap that came out in ???? model year.
make sure the cap you are using has the two gaskets, and the inner one fits and seals good on the bottom of the radiator neck.
also, be sure the overflow hose is tight on the radiator neck, and the catch can has a good vent to atmosphere.
sometimes it takes several cycles to expel all the air from the system, so don't let the overflow run dry.
you may even have to get the nose up in the air to coax the air in the system to rise to the top.
i squeeze the upper hose while filling. that seems to help burp it some.
Posted By: TJP
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 01/02/23 07:17 PM
i ran a 14lb cap on the original radiator in my charger. had no problems with doing that.
if your system is in good condition, i see no reason you would have any problems with a 16lb cap.
for a long time, 7lb caps were what everyone recommended. and every time you parked, the car seemed to puke.
my recommendation is to hide a good recovery tank somewhere, run a 16lb cap, and enjoy the benefits of a closed system while looking factory stock.
just my opinion. your mileage will vary.
It does gurgle after climbing a mountain and shutting down, even after idling to cool down.
I already have a tank hooked up - I'll try a pressure test soon. The 72 radiator and hoses are the same part # so it seems it would be fine.
Odd that they use a 16psi once a reservoir was added - seems backwards.
I've typically run 16lb caps on most of the 60-70's vehicles unless they had an aluminum radiator. Some of the MFR's of them say 6-7lbs max. Likely due to non ribbed tanks
Posted By: Sniper
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 01/02/23 08:14 PM
The purpose of the higher rating isn't to keep it from puking, well not directly. It raises the system pressure so you can run the coolant hotter without it boiling over. The temperature increase is the reason, emissions are lower with higher operating temperatures..
Posted By: AndyF
Re: Anti Freeze/Coolant in old Mopar - 01/02/23 08:18 PM
What is the preferred Coolant to use these Days?
Dexcool? Regular Prestone?
My little Scamp Street/Strip is ready to roll. No heater Box.
318 w Magnum Heads, Aluminum Radiator.
It has a 180 Thermostat and I will use Water Wetter...
Thanks
Just like engine oil I don't think it matters much. Use a high quality anti-freeze and distilled water. Don't mix brands, just pick one and stick with it. Don't use off brand stuff, pick something good and stay with it. Change it every 2 or 3 years.