Wheel Stud Spinning Can't Get Nut Off

Here is your best tip: Take a center punch and mark the middle of the nut or stud,whichever is exposed. Now drill down the middle of it until its gone. Had this happen years ago with a nice Keystone wheel , no damage.

Thanks for the tips. Yes, I meant to say axle flange, not disk.

This stuff is all brand new. I am thinking the stud was not seated/pulled into the axle flange, hence the issue.

It happens to to be the key nut, so that complicates things more.

I'm not sure if I can get to the back of the stud or not. Possibly if I destroy the disk dust shield. But the parking brake shoes, etc. might get in the way as they are internal design.

I don't see a way to grind the nut off. I'll get a shot with the camera tomorrow, but I am dealing with American Racing Torque Thrust II wheels, 11" wide with 5.5" backspacing.

Might be able to drill it out... not sure yet. Definitely no burs and/or grinding especially since the nut is nearly seated in the taper.

PITA.

Snapped some pics... Not sure, but thinking if I can get a porta power or something between the wheel and the disk and put some pressure against the wheel hoping to pull the stud into the flange. Long shot.

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..

Mm that's ugly.
I was going to suggest drilling a hole in the stud and pounding an Allen wrench in the hole to hold the stud. That may be hard to drill through the end of the keyed nut, then a bigger hole in the nut so it will spin around the wrench.

Start masking that wheel off with layers of duct tape. Wrap shim stock in areas where a cutter may nick if you accidentally lose control. Take a chisel and break off the center of the lug nut. Use a carbide burr until you can peel off that junk.

Could also (possibly) grind the tbolt heads at the back of the housing flange. I think then the whole wheel, disk, and axle assemble should pull out.

I really hope I can just get the stud bound up in some way to allow me to back the nut off without going to extreme measures.

Is the rear end an 8 3/4? If not, can you just pull the axle?

I've used a chisel before and split the side of the nut from the front to the back and got it off. The TTII wheels are very tight around the studs. Patience will be the key here...

Die Grinder time, with a carbide bit.
One of these, or similar tool.

Put 2 other nuts loose on opposite the bad one and lower some of the weight of the car down on it to pin the stud tight.

Well...I've got 2 possible ideas.

1. Try getting a Dremel in there sideways with a reinforced fiber wheel and cut through the lock nut and stud. It appears the wheel takes conical seat lugs so once the bulk is gone you should be able to cut straight down across the face of the stud and into the bit of lug that remains then hit it with a sharp chisel to finish it off if necessary. MAKE SURE to protect the wheel before you start! I'd use some scrap 1/8 aluminum or sheet metal because if you just tape it up...one good bounce with the cutoff wheel will go right through the tape and ruin the rim! I'd use painters tape on the wheel First to prevent any shield you make from scratching...THEN lay a metal shield of sorts in 3 or 4 pieces on all sides AND the flat around the lug... THEN use duct tape to hold the metal shields in place and cut away.

2. The RISKY way... (if you even have room)

This option may not work because you said it's seated pretty well. But you might get lucky and have a little movement with all other lugs off. I was working on our Nissan w 5 spoke rims and a friend helping managed to cross thread one lug for me when I went in the house. Unfortunately he kept going with the 4 way wrench once it got tight thinking it was seated! My 700 lb impact wouldn't take it off!! It was STUCK good! Fortunately it didn't spin the spline and I didn't want to risk ruining the hole in the hub so I opted for cutting it from behind.

With all other lug nuts off there was just enough room to move the wheel out a bit and fish a 4 1/2" cutoff wheel in there attached to an arbor. Once it was in place I managed to tighten it to the chuck of my electric drill. It was too tight to get the die grinder collet wrenches in there otherwise I would've used that. I had to use care not to damage the wheel or rotor hat but the problem was I couldn't see between the wheel and rotor to view what was occurring progress wise or damage wise. I had the drill spun up but I used a light pressure against the stud as I went. Fortunately the hat was pretty high above the actual rotor surface so I didn't have to worry about damaging the rotor face. 20mins or so into cutting I got a surprise when the wheel fell off suddenly. I forget exactly how long it took but the entire fiasco took over an hour to remedy. I had to do some adapting with a few washers to get the 5/8 hole in the large cutout wheel to fit the only arbor I had which was for my 1/4 inch die grinder. Once the wheel was off I was able to hammer the remnants of the stud backwards then fish a new one in and pull it through with washers and an open end lug nut using a socket wrench. Once it was halfway through I went with the impact gun to finish it. Damage to the wheel and rotor hat was minimal with a bit of gouging on each.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

What about trying to fish some wire through there (between rotor face and wheel) so you can pull it down on the stud to apply some pressure/friction to it. You should only need a little for a finger tight bolt. And even some thin wire should allow you to apply plenty of pressure.


roe

Use a small OD resin cut off wheel it may take a few to since they have to be small od and cut a slot up and across one side of the nut then rotate 180 degrees and cut another slot up and across to meet the other slot. Them take a cheisel and split the nut off. As mentioned cover up the area around the nut to protect the wheel as much as possible.

MLR426

Guys, thanks for the help. I would typically be after this, but has been a busy week at work, already at 40 hours, plus kids, etc. etc. I think you get the idea.

Anyway, I think I am going to do the drill approach. I've done this in the past on exhaust manifold bolts or similar situations. Before this, I might try the wire idea, but not sure I have enough clearance to get a wire in there.

It is beyond finger tight. These nuts have been laying around for years and must have had some surface rust/flash. I put never seize on the stud to help removal, ironic, eh?

I'll report back when I get some time to get after this thing. Thanks for all the help!

P.S. I am pretty close to HOF also... we should get together sometime.

Do you have a wonder bar? You might be able to get it between the spokes of the wheel to the backside of the wheel and pry the wheel toward you and try to remove the nut while prying out on the wheel.

Can you get a long skinny punch and hammer from the back side of the rotor to seat the stud?
Or since its a Dana can just pull the axle out with the wheel still attached?

Update -- it is off. Left work on time for once, put two other nuts on loose and dropped the wheel/tire onto a few 2x4s to wedge the wheel into the spinning stud. Hit it will the impact and it spun off.

Sorry for the drama guys. Like I said, just didn't have much time this week to mess around with it. The last attempt with the impact was with the other nuts tightened up so there was no load on this loose stud.

Thank you for all the help. Now to pull the caliper and disk and see what happened.

Nice!

Good going, I bet you had a celebratory beer.

Sheldon