Hemi Valve Adjustment

I have a 471 Hemi with alum heads and a hydraulic cam. I have been hearing what sounds like a lifter or valve train tick back in the #5 or 7 cylinder area. I just did a compression test and came up with this:

#1 - 190 : 190 - #2
#3 - 190 : 190 - #4
#5 - 190 : 195 - #6
#7 - 175 : 185 - #8

So I pulled the driver side valve cover, major PITA with power brakes

Nothing looks terribly loose or out of wack. You can push down slightly on the lifter to cause it to be loose but I am guessing that is just the hydraulic part. I have messed with hydraulic in a long time as my other motor is solid roller, way easier to adjust. Always seems like I am guessing on hydraulic, any tips.

Plugs are also looking rich, but strangely the #7 that is low on compression is one of the better looking plugs.

This is the simplest and the most accurate method taught to me 40 years ago. it has never failed me.
A remote starter switch will be very helpful for this process

Hydraulic lifters can be set, hot or cold, pumped up or not using this procedure. It will also work for an initial set up on a solid lifter motor.

For Hydraulics, most manufacturers want .020-.040 preload. If you have a 3-8 x 24 adjuster, 1” divided by 24 TPI = .0416” so 1/2 turn beyond zero lash, will = .020 , 3/4 turn will = .030.

I like to start at the LF corner of the motor. (exhaust) Turn the engine over in the direction of rotation until the intake valve for that cylinder is almost closed. You can now adjust the exhaust valve for that cylinder.

Loosen the adjusting nut until the pushrod spins freely between your finger tips. While spinning the pushrod slowly tighten the adjusting screw, when you find zero lash your will feel a definite change in resistance to spinning the pushrod. You may want to repeat this a few times to get the “feel”. Once zero lash is found, add 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn and lock the adjuster.

Move to the next valve in line (intake). Rotate the motor in the direction of rotation until the exhaust valve for that cylinder just begins to open. Repeat the above adjustment procedure.

Repeat the process for the remaining cylinders.

Summary:

Adjust the exhaust as the Intake is almost closed

Adjust the intake as the exhaust just starts to open

Thanks, that is the same way I do my solid cam. For me the hard part is feeling that "0" lash to know when to do the 3/4 of a turn.

Quote:

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For me the hard part is feeling that "0" lash to know when to do the 3/4 of a turn.

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I wiggle the pushrod up & down with my thumb/forefinger & I can tell when the clearance just gets to zero & usually I'll repeat several times in quick sucession to get it dead on. Spinning can be misleading due to the fit on either end & the oil/breakin lube type used.