Timing issues

RapidRobert

I did that as you had told me before in the another thread. Wouldn't start until I turned the dizzy CW. Then it ran really rough. Maybe I installed the time gears/ chain wrong? When I buttoned it up they where at 12 main gear/6 on cam gear with the car TDC on compression stroke of #6. That should be right?

Its a little hard to see but I took a picture (attached) before putting on the timing cover. The dots lines up. I didnt rotate anything, i took the old gears off and slipped on the new. it all lined up perfectly. Did i do the timing chain incorrectly?

Its a little hard to see in the picture. The dots line up. All I did was remove the old and put the new right back on without rotating anything. It should be that simple.

Not sure the dots are lined up you should always roll over three times coming back to lined up it usually becomes very apparent if they are or are not lined up correctly.

This mistake is made quite often only one way to be sure now!

to bad you had to monkey with the dizzy to before trying . nice to do one thing at a time then you know what changed things.

This is a stock cam right? Pull the pass valve cover & hand turn the crank with the socket/breaker bar till both of #6 cyls' rocker arms are moving and are at the same height. (Can bump it over electrically with the starter relay to get close then finish by hand with the bar/socket). At that point move the crank back & forth slightly till they're dead even & if at that point the dampener timing slit is within a degree or two of TDC on the timing tab (assuming no slop in the chain & it is new so should be good) then you are OK with the dot to dot on the tchain/gears that you did & no need to go back inside. Then back the crank up slightly to 20 then come forward to 10 or 15 & line up the magnet/housing as described with the rotor under #1 plug wire cap terminal. EDIT faster yet lets assume we are Ok dot to dot & without pulling the valve cover you might set the marks at 10 BTDC (20 then forward to 10) then if the rotor is close to being under #1 set the magnet dead even with the tooth & if the rotor is close to being under #6 set the magnet dead even with the tooth & see if it will fire. If no go then pull the valve cover & check dot to dot with "rockover"

Hmm that should work I think if he were off one tooth it would be 14 to 15 degree past TDC 0 mark to get into a level overlap on number 6.

If one can get a small level across and get a feel for how they are on 6 compression then you would compare in the overlap at the top of intake stroke.

Probably best done right after a short run (1 minute)to make sure lifters are not pumped down?? (unevenly)

Not a stock cam. Its a fairly large cam. Want to make sure I'm doing this right. It shouldn't be that hard. I get #1 to TDC on compression. Look at the paddle and adjust the dizzy body until it lines up with the closest paddle. Then do I lock the dizzy in place or leave it loose and rotate the crank to 20 then back to 16? Then lock the dizzy in place? I have a large cam thus the setting of 16. I need 34 total and I have 18 on the dizzy.

Dist housing can be loose or snugged. Go to 20. Then forward (CW) to 16. Loosen housing (if tight). Line up the paddle. Snug the dist. As you know, Crank at #1 compression/rotor under #1. EDIT 1 tooth off is 15.6 degrees (360 divided by 23 teeth on crank gear) & I'm sure you got it dot to dot but the gears (one or both dots) could be mismarked but k.i.s.s. one thing at a time.

Cam should be degreed in even if you checked and rechecked the dots by turning over and check and check again the tolerances have always been suspect in cam fazing especially when one takes the stacking affect of all things being off a tad in the same direction.

crank keyway, bottom gear keyway top gear dowel hole and cam dowel placement.

Cam specs???

Gross valve lift Intake .525 Exhaust .525
Duration .006 tapped lift Intake 275 Exhaust 287
Valve timing Open. Closed
INT: 32. BTDC 64 ABDC
EXH: 78. BBDC 30 ATDC

Duration @ .050. Intake. Exhaust
LOBE LIFT. .3510. .3510
LOBE SEP. 110.0.

Comp Cam

Okay I feel real stupid. I took the car to a local mechanic. Within 2 hours determined there was a grounding issue. The grounding strap that is bolted into the head had a loose bolt. So it was a intermittent electrical problem. Also the coil might have been bad so he replaced that as well. Lessened learned, start with the simple things.

Might have to add a second strap.

Thanks for all the input.

You can never have too many grounds!