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I have had bad u-joints "clunk" when going from forward to reverse and vise versa. Why do you suspect the control arm?
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Check your strut rod bushings.Quote:
Strut rod bushings are poly and fairly new. Have them out too but no apparent wear or problems.
Autoxcuda, yes I was wondering about the tolerance on that as well. Mine don't seem exceptionally worn but there is some play. Wondering if a few choice blows with a chisel all around the circumference would stake the outers into the inner. That fix might be only temporary if it worked at all.
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My 1970 Challenger had a clunk when shifting from forward to reverse. The right LCA may have excessive wear at the pivot point between the torsion bar adjuster and the outer housing. Can I successfully squeeze the two outer parts against the pivot shaft in a press or is this LCA scrap? I really hate to replace it because they have the boxing plate welded in and sway bar mounts.
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My 1970 Challenger had a clunk when shifting from forward to reverse. The right LCA may have excessive wear at the pivot point between the torsion bar adjuster and the outer housing. Can I successfully squeeze the two outer parts against the pivot shaft in a press or is this LCA scrap? I really hate to replace it because they have the boxing plate welded in and sway bar mounts.
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heh, arc welding with exposed skin...
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Autoxcuda, yes I was wondering about the tolerance on that as well. Mine don't seem exceptionally worn but there is some play. Wondering if a few choice blows with a chisel all around the circumference would stake the outers into the inner. That fix might be only temporary if it worked at all.
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Autoxcuda, yes I was wondering about the tolerance on that as well. Mine don't seem exceptionally worn but there is some play. Wondering if a few choice blows with a chisel all around the circumference would stake the outers into the inner. That fix might be only temporary if it worked at all.
You can pinch the back and weld a strap to hold it like I pictured. I don't think a few blows around that circumfernce would hurt anything. That's a good idea. And if the noise went away and came back, at least you could narrow down the source better (I'd chisel it again in the car to see if it would go away again to confirm). And/or you could also put lube in the circumfernce joint and see if that gave any temporary change.
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heh, arc welding with exposed skin...
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The straps look like a great idea. I'm going to add the straps and then heat and beat the outer shell. There goes my OE Gold Certification!
You guys are making me feel guilty so I guess I better dig out my welding jacket and find some shoes that aren't made out of nylon.
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I was going to heat the metal and give a few whacks to the rear outer shell to try to close the tolerance between the torsion bar mount and the rest of the arm. Same place you are experiencing some slop in your earlier post (looseness/gap/wear).
