Posted By: hooziewhatsit
Adjusting reluctor gap with vac advance problem - 01/07/13 09:18 AM
A while back I did a normal MP electronic ignition swap on the 318 in my work truck. Shortly after I got a mity-vac and pulled the (brand new) distributor so I could adjust the reluctor gap on the bench and do it right.
Long story short, to have 0.008" clearance with the vacuum advance engaged, I have ~0.020" clearance with no advance. If I have 0.008" without the vac advance, then the reluctor collides with the pickup when the advance kicks in. It's been running in the summer with 0.020" gap seemingly just fine.
There's also a couple thou difference depending on where the roll pin is on the reluctor. It sits slightly off-center.
It looked like the pivot point was pretty well fixed which would make it hard to true up. Is there any way to get it closer to 0.008" throughout its travel?
Also, can I just file down on some of the reluctor teeth to make them uniform length?
Now that it's cold out, I'm having a hard start issue. But I'm not sure if it's related to the gap being too big, or to IGN1 not having power during crank (ECU gets ~7.5v backfed from the BR). If I jump +12v to the ECU, it starts right up. But that may be a separate issue
Long story short, to have 0.008" clearance with the vacuum advance engaged, I have ~0.020" clearance with no advance. If I have 0.008" without the vac advance, then the reluctor collides with the pickup when the advance kicks in. It's been running in the summer with 0.020" gap seemingly just fine.
There's also a couple thou difference depending on where the roll pin is on the reluctor. It sits slightly off-center.
It looked like the pivot point was pretty well fixed which would make it hard to true up. Is there any way to get it closer to 0.008" throughout its travel?
Also, can I just file down on some of the reluctor teeth to make them uniform length?
Now that it's cold out, I'm having a hard start issue. But I'm not sure if it's related to the gap being too big, or to IGN1 not having power during crank (ECU gets ~7.5v backfed from the BR). If I jump +12v to the ECU, it starts right up. But that may be a separate issue