Mopar 727 Transmission Won't Go!!!

Gentleman,

I hope hoping you can help me out with this one. I installed a 727 tranny behind my 383
it has a reverse manual valve body with a 2800 stall. I bought this off my buddy who had it in his 65 alter-wheel base car; trans worked fine when pulled. I put this in to find out I am having troubles.

Here is what I am finding:
1. Trans fluid is clean/full check in neutral at normal operating temperature; trans does have a fresh filter.

2. Before I put the drive shaft in with the car on all 4 jack stands I shifted through the gears to find the tail shaft properly spinning.

3. With the drive shaft in I put it in gear and nothing happens.

4. At this point I raised just the rear of the car in the air and then put it in gear to find the rear wheels spinning.

5. I then again put the car back on the ground to find no wheel movement.

6. I pulled the trans cooler line to find the pump does work as it made a large mess on the shop floor.

What are your guys thoughts with all of this? I am beside myself. Thanks for the help in advance.

Regards,
Tar

I had this happen on a trans I rebuilt for a guy, put it in and the car would not move, jack it up the tires turn, set it on the ground nothing. Turns out when his rearend was narrowed they cut one axle too short, it had a cone posi, longer axle fixed it. Make sure the driveshaft does not turn with both rear wheels on the ground.

We're waiting for Kunkel to come to

Did you at any point run the engine, with the tranny/converter dry?...

Thanks for the replies guys, in reponse:

1. I don't think it could be the rear axle, as I have run the same rear end in a previous setup

2. No I never ran the tranny without fluid it in; upon initial startup I had about 8 quarts in the trans and then adjusted accordingly.

Thanks for the help with this, hoping I can find some resolution.

Regards,
Tar

Have you checked to make sure that the emergency brake is not dragging on the rear drums? (Does it roll forward/backward in N)

The e-brake is dis-engaged; the car does move forward and backwards in neutral, when placed in park I cannot roll anywhere.

Thanks,
Tar

Fluid pressure? What year is the tranny? Are you sure the fresh filter is correct for the year, i.e., are all fluid passages clear? Does it shift firmly when running on jackstands?

If this a 65 or earlier transmission and you changed the filter,do you have the correct filter ?
The later filter only has one hole and will block fluid to the pump.

No wheel movement in forward and Reverse?

The wheels turning on jackstands means nothing due to the "windmilling" effect of the released clutches. Never check transmission operation on jackstands.

Thanks for the comments guys, yes this is correct I do not have forward or reverse movement when all 4 tires on are on the ground. You can tell the car wants to move forward ever so slightly but doesn't . When I do test the car in the air the wheels don't move slow but actually very fast and as you increase engin rpm so does the rpm of the wheels. So I am not sure if the natural "unwinding" of the bands would generate such velocities. Any other thoughts? Do you think I may have a bad torque converter?

What year is the trans ?

Did you try to stop the tire from turning , put a 2x between the ground and the tire with the engine at idle if you are afraid to do it with your foot .

The Trans is a 69' tied to a 68' 383. No I haven't tried to stop the tires yet. You guys have any idea what may be going on here, this is driving me nuts!

If the driveshaft does not turn when both wheels are on the ground in forward or reverse then,

Low fluid
low hydraulic pressures
oil filter clogged
Valve body malfunction
faulty oil pump
clutches non operational

Not much else anyone can tell you without a pressure check and an air check of the servos and clutches. Since you know you have cooler line pressure then I would suspect the valve body.

The pump has probably failed; even with the drive tangs broken there can be enough friction between the pump rotor and drive hub to create some pressure but not enough to engage a clutch.

Only way to know for sure is to hook up a gauge to the accumulator test port.

Quote:

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The pump has probably failed; even with the drive tangs broken there can be enough friction between the pump rotor and drive hub to create some pressure but not enough to engage a clutch.

Only way to know for sure is to hook up a gauge to the accumulator test port.

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I've even seen some get them to move with broken tangs but not good or far!