Breaking Wheel Studs

Hoping for some ideas, 1974 Charger stock wheel studs never been changed. I ran Cragar street stars for many years which were std 4.5 bolt pattern then changed to Greg Weld wheels that are a unilug pattern both took a mag type lugnut. So far the rears are fine but the front are not. Hit a small bump (very small) which immediately noticed something was wrong pulling over realized I had broke 2 studs and the rest were loose replaced the broken ones and no issues. Today no bumps 40 mph and same thing opposite side front What is happening? Is there a correct length stud for mags as I only 3/4 to 1" of threads in nut or is it a wheel issue. I used a torque wrench when I installed and wheels were balanced w/ no issues. Sorry for being long winded, but wanted to give as much info as possible. Thanks

Pretty sure you have either the wrong style lug nut or too short of studs, maybe both?

picture would be good

Ill say you have the wrong lugs.You must use his lugs and washers.The lugs come with 2 sets of washers.I believe the offsets are for Mopar pattern.I have a set that I ran for 3 years at least.Never had a problem.Rocky

On many rims I have used they require both the offset washers and a Lug nut with a shank on it. You are not using Acorn style nuts are you?

I put these on over a year ago with few miles on them and bought them used which came with gm style lugs and washers. If I recall correctly I purchased the lugs and correct washers from them directly. The lugs look like normal mag style shank with the washers being offset slightly not quite as aggressive as normal unilug washers. I do know the stud is very close to the inside edge of the wheel hub to the point I cannot fit a normal lug wrench in there using a socket is a must. Is this how your fit?

Since the others were loose, I'd say you have a fit problem or they loosened up.
Pull the wheel and check the depth of the lug nut from the back. It must not extend to the inner edge of the wheel or it will not tighten. There should be a bit of clearance. Also clean and check the studs. Many have shoulders at the base. The lug nuts must not reach this point and bottom out on the stud shoulder or again it will not fully tighten the wheel!
After all is checked and any problems fixed, install and torque the wheels. Drive a bit to get everything seated and warm. Recheck torque. Do it again (cold, warm, check) a couple times to see if they loosen up.

Is the shank of the lug nut bottoming out before tighting against the wheel hub? Try running down the nut whithout the wheel on and see. Did the studs shear at the drum or rotor hub face?

Sheared at the rotors hub face.

if you search Google with:

"Greg Weld" broke stud

it seems you're not the only one...

This is a common problem with sheetmetal wheels.

The soft, springy wheel centers crush before the studs can be tightened adequately.

Quote:

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This is a common problem with sheetmetal wheels.

The soft, springy wheel centers crush before the studs can be tightened adequately.

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Thanks for the heads up. Is there anything that can be done to fix the problem?

Wow I was gonna suggest cheap wheels in my first post be decided to stay positive...