Posted By: jeebis44
Zero Deck - 06/20/12 12:51 AM
When an engine is zero decked, say a magnum 318, does the intake manifold also need to be modified?
Zero Deck
Posted By: JohnRR
Re: Zero Deck - 06/20/12 12:52 AM
Manifold or the heads , something needs to be cut .
Posted By: jeebis44
Re: Zero Deck - 06/20/12 01:21 AM
So whatever I mill the block down, I would also have to mill the same thickness from the manifold? So if I remove .03" from the block I would remove .03 from each manifold face or .015 from each manifold face?
Posted By: ahy
Re: Zero Deck - 06/20/12 01:40 AM
If you get to zero deck by milling the block agree manifolds or head will need cut but its not 1 for 1. I don't have the ratio memorized but I'm sure it will get posted. Its a good idea to do a test fit before milling to double check... also most prefer to mill the heads so the manifold isn't oddball but it depends on cost of the manifold and future plans.
If you get to zero deck by using a custom piston, or a shelf stock piston with custom pin location cutting should not be required.
If you get to zero deck by using a custom piston, or a shelf stock piston with custom pin location cutting should not be required.
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Zero Deck - 06/20/12 03:31 AM
set the milled heads down on the block with your choice of head gaskets & hold the heads in place with several lightly snugged head bolts then set the intake/intake gaskets on & note the actual distance along the slope that is misaligned. SB intake faces ain't exactly 45 degrees to the deck so give your measurements to him & let him do the math & give him back the heads for the intake faces of the heads to be milled. Toss the front/rear cork gaskets & use clear silicone as they can be too thick stock & after milling definitely will be & can cause a front water port leak. If the intake sets too low search for some thicker intake gaskets.
Posted By: kentj340
Re: Zero Deck - 06/20/12 04:56 AM
Quote:
When an engine is zero decked, say a magnum 318, does the intake manifold also need to be modified?
According to "Mopar Speed Secrets, 9th edition", an 850 page Mopar Performance Parts publication written by a Chrysler racing engineer in support of the hobby ($10 at http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mo9thedensps1.html ):
"The 'A" engine block... The intake manifold surface on the head should be milled 0.0095" for each 0.010" milled off the gasket surface of the block or heads. Since the intake manifold also seals the top of the block, the front and rear block rails will have to be milled 0.0144" for each 0.010" milled from the head and/or block deck surface."
This book is well worth the ten bucks if you are restoring or modifying any Mopar engine. There's also another similar book named "Magnum Engines, 2nd edition" for $10, 450 pages. Mopar "Chassis" book, 448 pages, is also a good buy at same price.
Interesting what the author had to say about Ford's and GM's attempts to support racing, compared to Mopar's.
BTW, you can sell these books on ebay for $10, when you are finished with them.
Posted By: dogdays
Re: Zero Deck - 06/20/12 08:17 PM
Just a note to the last poster:
The Mopar Speed Secrets book is a good place for a Mopar newbie to start but DON'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU READ IN THE BOOK!!!!!
I cannot stress this enough. I have real problems with someone, who calls himself an engineer, putting out false information. Either he allowed himself to be misinformed and didn't do due diligence, or he has never heard of the word "ethics". Case in point: The claim that 1975 and newer blocks are thinwall castings and can't be bored out very much. Maybe this non-starter isn't in the newer books, but it was in every one back in the day. Problem is, there was no statistical difference in cylinder wall thickness from before and after 1975.
Another untruth was the claim that minimum piston to head clearance should be more than 0.050" People on this board are running 0.035" on some pretty big engines and this is a case where the tighter the clearance the better.
I also have a problem with Direct Connection / Mopar Performance who for years and years refused to give out cam duration at 0.050" lift numbers because they didn't trust us to use the information correctly.
So use it to start, but there are many better reference manuals out there.
R.
The Mopar Speed Secrets book is a good place for a Mopar newbie to start but DON'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU READ IN THE BOOK!!!!!
I cannot stress this enough. I have real problems with someone, who calls himself an engineer, putting out false information. Either he allowed himself to be misinformed and didn't do due diligence, or he has never heard of the word "ethics". Case in point: The claim that 1975 and newer blocks are thinwall castings and can't be bored out very much. Maybe this non-starter isn't in the newer books, but it was in every one back in the day. Problem is, there was no statistical difference in cylinder wall thickness from before and after 1975.
Another untruth was the claim that minimum piston to head clearance should be more than 0.050" People on this board are running 0.035" on some pretty big engines and this is a case where the tighter the clearance the better.
I also have a problem with Direct Connection / Mopar Performance who for years and years refused to give out cam duration at 0.050" lift numbers because they didn't trust us to use the information correctly.
So use it to start, but there are many better reference manuals out there.
R.
Posted By: maximum entropy
Re: Zero Deck - 06/20/12 08:33 PM
Quote:
Just a note to the last poster:
The Mopar Speed Secrets book is a good place for a Mopar newbie to start but DON'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU READ IN THE BOOK!!!!!
I cannot stress this enough. I have real problems with someone, who calls himself an engineer, putting out false information. Either he allowed himself to be misinformed and didn't do due diligence, or he has never heard of the word "ethics". Case in point: The claim that 1975 and newer blocks are thinwall castings and can't be bored out very much. Maybe this non-starter isn't in the newer books, but it was in every one back in the day. Problem is, there was no statistical difference in cylinder wall thickness from before and after 1975.
Another untruth was the claim that minimum piston to head clearance should be more than 0.050" People on this board are running 0.035" on some pretty big engines and this is a case where the tighter the clearance the better.
I also have a problem with Direct Connection / Mopar Performance who for years and years refused to give out cam duration at 0.050" lift numbers because they didn't trust us to use the information correctly.
So use it to start, but there are many better reference manuals out there.
R.
100%! it makes up for it by being poorly written. 
Posted By: kentj340
Re: Zero Deck - 06/20/12 11:04 PM
Quote:
DON'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU READ IN THE BOOK!!!!!
Of course. This is always true. Note the first two words of my post: "According to", meaning that's only what the book says. If I were having my block milled, I'd certainly try to prove with geometry what the book says before taking a cut.
It does sound like others are familiar with the book. It must not be totally worthless, if they took the time to dig into it.