lower control arms

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I hope you are writing about the Charger Lower control arm bushing needing replacement as the Dart LCA will not work. [/quote

I don't know if you guys are aware of this, but an A body lower control arm will bolt up to an B & E body suspension, but the A body LCA is overall "longer" in length, than a B or E body one.
Putting an A body LCA into another body style changes the suspension geometry around.
But i don't know what adverse effect that it has in doing so.
A lot of the roundy, round racers but the A body LCA on the left side of a B body car, as the car would be going in left turns all the time, on a race track setting.
On a street driven vehicle, i haven't a clue why someone would want to put in another body stlyes LCA in something that it wasn't intended for.

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.how do u replace it?

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I hope you are writing about the Charger Lower control arm bushing needing replacement as the Dart LCA will not work. [/quote

I don't know if you guys are aware of this, but an A body lower control arm will bolt up to an B & E body suspension, but the A body LCA is overall "longer" in length, than a B or E body one.
Putting an A body LCA into another body style changes the suspension geometry around.
But i don't know what adverse effect that it has in doing so.
A lot of the roundy, round racers but the A body LCA on the left side of a B body car, as the car would be going in left turns all the time, on a race track setting.
On a street driven vehicle, i haven't a clue why someone would want to put in another body stlyes LCA in something that it wasn't intended for.

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Longer LCA negative cambers the tire more.

Look at the front tires of a stock car set up for ovals. The pass side tire is usually tilted with the top of tire towards inside of car, negative camber. Drivers side is usually straight up or tilted out, positive camber. Applies contact patch more evenly across the pavement when suspension is loaded, cornering.

I wouldn't mess with swapping the LCA from an A to a B/E car. I don't have any issue with the taller FMJ spindles on A's etc, just not messing with the arm lengths as in this case. Camber usually isn't an issue for street driven mopars, it's caster that is the tough measurement to get enough of in most cases.

Removing the sleeve, either weld a washer to it and press out or split it with a chisel and fold it in on itself.

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we got this set up from a mopar salvage yard,on there advise that it works fine,...

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just looking for a good deal on disc set up,can`t seem to locate b body parts,still gettihg conflicting info,my goal is streetable,afordable,avaleable

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so the 70 b body balljoint will matchup to the 74 a body spindel. will the spindel be any lower or higher?

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looks like the a- body spindel won`t work,the 70/69 balljoint bracket is not threded,bolt goes through balljoint bracket into spindel,the a -body bolts through spindel into threds in in the bracket con.to tierod

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They both, 69 Charger and 74 disc A-body, take the same lower ball joint Moog K781.

It's a through bolt on a 74 A-body and 69 B-body.

Here's a picture of a 73-76 A-body spindle and ball joint.

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looks like i have f- body setup,ok,will that f setup work on the 69 b-body?

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looks like i have f- body setup,ok,will that f setup work on the 69 b-body?

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thanks men,the threded sterring arms on the 74 dart setup they sold me for $80 complete w/lca`s,had me confused.looking at the 70,b-body disc set i got the same day 4 my 70 satelite could see bolts going through the balljoint,did`nt know about the nuts on the roter side,thought it was the same on my satelite drum system, till i cleaned off the ball joint to see nuts on the ball joint side holding it on,the spindel match is good, using nuts+bolts from b-body drum conf.guess you can put bolts in front or back,i will put the nuts on the inside.

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