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Re: 505" six pack engine WOT "bog"
[Re: MoparJunkie]
#998473
05/24/11 08:45 AM
05/24/11 08:45 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562
Brookeville, Md
Mr.Yuck
Not enough dumb comments...yet
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Not enough dumb comments...yet
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562
Brookeville, Md
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Quote:
64's on center haven't checked outboards. 32 total timing...12 initial 20 in distributor. 4 speed... using newer replacement carbs... LM2 coming wednesday... 
I'd try 36* in full at 2000rpm... That's where I have mine.
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Re: 505" six pack engine WOT "bog"
[Re: MoparJunkie]
#998475
05/24/11 09:38 AM
05/24/11 09:38 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,543
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,543
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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I had the same problem w/ my dad's 440 six pack in his road runner. I called up sixpackgut and took his advice...50 cc accel. pump and 35 squirter on the center carb. No more bog. edit...this was on a smaller (448") and milder motor though.
Last edited by a9sec70cuda; 05/24/11 10:11 AM.
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon 340, no drivetrain, on blocks behind the barn
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: 505" six pack engine WOT "bog"
[Re: Streetwize]
#998478
05/24/11 10:52 AM
05/24/11 10:52 AM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,155
Home of the Bluegrass
MoparJunkie
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,155
Home of the Bluegrass
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Is there any modifying I need to do to put a 50cc accel. pump on? And where can I get the 35 squirter?
"It takes a Mopar to catch a Mopar”
1970 Challenger T/A 4 speed EV2
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Re: 505" six pack engine WOT "bog"
[Re: MoparJunkie]
#998479
05/24/11 10:56 AM
05/24/11 10:56 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,543
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,543
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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Quote:
Is there any modifying I need to do to put a 50cc accel. pump on? And where can I get the 35 squirter?
Nope. Just get the 50 cc pump kit from Holley and bolt it on. Careful changing the stud in the baseplate...they tend to break.
The pump kit and the squirter can probably be bought from your local parts store that carries Holley parts. There are a couple stores around here that have some Holley parts in stock. Jets, squirters, and 50 cc pump kits are usually on the shelf.
Or you could always order from Jegs, Doug Herbert, or Summit.
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon 340, no drivetrain, on blocks behind the barn
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: 505" six pack engine WOT "bog"
[Re: an8sec70cuda]
#998480
05/24/11 11:27 AM
05/24/11 11:27 AM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,495
Shelby mi.
JAKE68
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,495
Shelby mi.
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I am not going any further with this I am out.
JAKES AUTOMOTIVE
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Re: 505" six pack engine WOT "bog"
[Re: JAKE68]
#998481
05/24/11 11:33 AM
05/24/11 11:33 AM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,155
Home of the Bluegrass
MoparJunkie
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,155
Home of the Bluegrass
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I have the springs also Jake... Just trying to compile info and parts for tuning this weekend...
"It takes a Mopar to catch a Mopar”
1970 Challenger T/A 4 speed EV2
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Re: 505" six pack engine WOT "bog"
[Re: MoparJunkie]
#998482
05/24/11 01:27 PM
05/24/11 01:27 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,301
West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,301
West Coast, USA
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Quote:
64's on center haven't checked outboards. 32 total timing...12 initial 20 in distributor. 4 speed... using newer replacement carbs... LM2 coming wednesday...
Start with basic engine tuning:
1.) Get your timing issue corrected first. This is critical! Likely needs 16 to 18 initial and 32 to 35 total. You need to shorten up your mechanical advance.
2.) Check for vacuum leaks and check/set your float levels correctly. This is critical! If you're running them straight out of the box, they are unlikely to be set right. The outboards like the level a bit higher than the center.
3.) Adjust the center carb first with the outboards disconnected and wired shut(I've read horror stories about them opening wide when the linkage is disconnected and the motor blowing. Get it starting, running and idling clean.
If you do end up using the 50cc pump, and larger than a #32 discharge nozzle, you will also need the high-flow discharge nozzle screw.
Adjust the tip-in of the outboards, so there is no bog during the transition to wide open...it just wants more fuel as they start to open and begin flowing fuel through the boosters. This is why float level, spring rate and accelerator pump disharge size etc(center carb) are so important.
Once they are all open and flowing through the boosters, then there is the all important wide open throttle jetting.
I run the mechanical secondary carbs, so i'm no vacuum carb tuning expert, BUT there is some good advice in this thread and also a great post on tuning them somewhere on this board. It's a good starting point, but with the extra cubes and bigger cam you will have to fine tune with your LM2.
Cab_burge, for one, has given me excellent advice and is extremely experienced and knowlegable about about both types of carbs. He is amoung a well-represented group of talented Mopar sixpack tuner/ engine builders here, like Steetwise and many others that I appologize to for not naming. They know who they are, but I do have CRS and cant remember them all.
There is more than one way to skin a cat. Getting rid of the bog and having great performance without over-fueling is a balancing act that, with patience and perseverence, you can master. Your LM2 will serve you well in your quest.
Is your manifold crossover blocked?
Consider some Promax upgrades on your carbs such as metering blocks and baseplates to ease tuning with your LM2.
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Re: 505" six pack engine WOT "bog"
[Re: jbc426]
#998483
05/24/11 01:58 PM
05/24/11 01:58 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,945
Weddington, N.C.
Streetwize
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,945
Weddington, N.C.
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You might want to PM member PHJ426, he bought my old 508" RB motor and put a sixpak set up on it, sounds like he's got it pretty well dialed in  There's nothing really magic about a 35 shooter, but there are 2 different types, I prefer the rifle barrel shooters because they "aim" the shot right at the booster so it tends to break-up or "atomize" the shot a bit better than the "nostril" type. anything that helps distribute that big slug of gas to all the cylinders is best for your bore life. With a 50cc pump if a 35 works well I at least go ahead and try a smaller 31, if I can't detect any difference I run the smaller one, the less raw gas you have to shove down into the bores the better in terms of ring life 
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Re: 505" six pack engine WOT "bog"
[Re: Streetwize]
#998484
05/24/11 02:42 PM
05/24/11 02:42 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,225
Charleston
sixpackgut
Drag Week Mod Champion
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Drag Week Mod Champion
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,225
Charleston
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Quote:
You might want to PM member PHJ426, he bought my old 508" RB motor and put a sixpak set up on it, sounds like he's got it pretty well dialed in
There's nothing really magic about a 35 shooter, but there are 2 different types, I prefer the rifle barrel shooters because they "aim" the shot right at the booster so it tends to break-up or "atomize" the shot a bit better than the "nostril" type. anything that helps distribute that big slug of gas to all the cylinders is best for your bore life. With a 50cc pump if a 35 works well I at least go ahead and try a smaller 31, if I can't detect any difference I run the smaller one, the less raw gas you have to shove down into the bores the better in terms of ring life
The same amount of fuel will come out of the squirter no matter what size squirter is on the carb. it will either shoot a bigger/shorter duration shot or a smaller/longer shot of gas. but a smaller shooter will still be squirting as rpms run up reducing load up at off idle
Gen 3 power 6.22@110, 9.85@135
Follow @g3hemiswap on instagram
performance only racing, CRT, ultimate converter, superior design concepts, ThumperCarbs
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That's like saying to slow down the opening of the end carbs is covering up the problem.....EITHER WAY WILL work......The bog is a lean bog....so the choice is to slow down the air flow by using "two springs", or put more fuel to it with a larger acc.pump and squirters......Personaly, I'd go with more fuel first and if that doesn't fix it, then run the lightest spring in the secondaries that will keep it from bogging...... 
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