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hey guys,

the kit i bought is from coast high performance and it cost 1300 for probe forged pistons, rings, bearins, scat I beams, and the 9000 cast crank including internal balancing at no extra charge. The only reason im worried is because i saw someone on another forum snap one in two peices with a 4 speed...but, there are alot of guys with cast cranks it seems with good luck...seems like there is a good and bad...Im going to call coast high and see how much it will be to upgrade, but if its outta my range, im gonna cross my fingers and go for it with the cast

i was hoping to get real world experience with the cast and 4 speeds, but with the rarity of 4 speed racers, its kinda hard to.

thanks, and if anyone else wants to share i appreciate any and all input

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I would be worried with the 4 speed nad just a note, for $2400 you could have had a forged stroker kit.

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I'd also put 500 hp at the limit, my 511 horse 427" small block Cobra has a cast crank with a 5 speed, but in a light car it's almost impossible to load the motor up very hard on the street.

The heavier the car the more resistence/load you have countering the inherent twisting motion of the crank, if you get into a detonation situation under full-hook/high load and bad things can happen. If you're going to run on street tires I think 500 is safe in an A body, but if you're running Drag Radials or better and really plan on thrashing it around invest in a little extra piece of mind.


As said by the time you balance a cast crank you don't wind up saving much over a forging

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I'd also put 500 hp at the limit, my 511 horse 427" small block Cobra has a cast crank with a 5 speed, but in a light car it's almost impossible to load the motor up very hard on the street.

The heavier the car the more resistence/load you have countering the inherent twisting motion of the crank, if you get into a detonation situation under full-hook/high load and bad things can happen. If you're going to run on street tires I think 500 is safe in an A body, but if you're running Drag Radials or better and really plan on thrashing it around invest in a little extra piece of mind.


As said by the time you balance a cast crank you don't wind up saving much over a forging

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the balance job is free on the cast crank, im not paying for the internal balance


one question i have also is, in strength, would the stock cast crank be stronger than the scat? we all know that there are many PUSHING stock cast cranks hard in 360's, im wondering if the scat is more fragile

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I'd also put 500 hp at the limit, my 511 horse 427" small block Cobra has a cast crank with a 5 speed, but in a light car it's almost impossible to load the motor up very hard on the street.

The heavier the car the more resistence/load you have countering the inherent twisting motion of the crank, if you get into a detonation situation under full-hook/high load and bad things can happen. If you're going to run on street tires I think 500 is safe in an A body, but if you're running Drag Radials or better and really plan on thrashing it around invest in a little extra piece of mind.


As said by the time you balance a cast crank you don't wind up saving much over a forging

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the balance job is free on the cast crank, im not paying for the internal balance


one question i have also is, in strength, would the stock cast crank be stronger than the scat? we all know that there are many PUSHING stock cast cranks hard in 360's, im wondering if the scat is more fragile

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I trust the stock 360 crank more than I would the others. I do push mine pretty hard and know one day what could happen. now I don't know who made the early mopar cranks but they are pretty strong for what they are.

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I'd also put 500 hp at the limit, my 511 horse 427" small block Cobra has a cast crank with a 5 speed, but in a light car it's almost impossible to load the motor up very hard on the street.

The heavier the car the more resistence/load you have countering the inherent twisting motion of the crank, if you get into a detonation situation under full-hook/high load and bad things can happen. If you're going to run on street tires I think 500 is safe in an A body, but if you're running Drag Radials or better and really plan on thrashing it around invest in a little extra piece of mind.


As said by the time you balance a cast crank you don't wind up saving much over a forging

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the balance job is free on the cast crank, im not paying for the internal balance


one question i have also is, in strength, would the stock cast crank be stronger than the scat? we all know that there are many PUSHING stock cast cranks hard in 360's, im wondering if the scat is more fragile

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I trust the stock 360 crank more than I would the others. I do push mine pretty hard and know one day what could happen. now I don't know who made the early mopar cranks but they are pretty strong for what they are.

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when you say made the early mopar cranks, im assuming a not stock in the block one, but a mopar performance crank? if so, I have seen many say scat made the cranks, but im not 100% sure...I know scat makes the cast cranks in the MP crate engines

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no bone stock cranks made in the 70s, I doubt they were made by scat I think the chinese were still farming rice back then.

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I'd also put 500 hp at the limit, my 511 horse 427" small block Cobra has a cast crank with a 5 speed, but in a light car it's almost impossible to load the motor up very hard on the street.

The heavier the car the more resistence/load you have countering the inherent twisting motion of the crank, if you get into a detonation situation under full-hook/high load and bad things can happen. If you're going to run on street tires I think 500 is safe in an A body, but if you're running Drag Radials or better and really plan on thrashing it around invest in a little extra piece of mind.


As said by the time you balance a cast crank you don't wind up saving much over a forging

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the balance job is free on the cast crank, im not paying for the internal balance


one question i have also is, in strength, would the stock cast crank be stronger than the scat? we all know that there are many PUSHING stock cast cranks hard in 360's, im wondering if the scat is more fragile

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I trust the stock 360 crank more than I would the others. I do push mine pretty hard and know one day what could happen. now I don't know who made the early mopar cranks but they are pretty strong for what they are.

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when you say made the early mopar cranks, im assuming a not stock in the block one, but a mopar performance crank? if so, I have seen many say scat made the cranks, but im not 100% sure...I know scat makes the cast cranks in the MP crate engines

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no bone stock cranks made in the 70s, I doubt they were made by scat I think the chinese were still farming rice back then.

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The big question is this..........would you rather save until you have another 1,000.00 or see 2,700.00 laying on the asphalt in a puddle of oil under your car ?
Factor in block machining and hope and pray it doesn't spank a head and wreck something upstairs , you will have the potential to ruin a 4,000.00 bill in no time.
That is if it is kind and scatters in the first 30 feet of your pass.
Once you're out a couple hundred feet or better , you have a bit of momentum working against you too............and you bring the other lane into play too.
Scat recommends a lot of things.........and I can't think of a single car running a dry sump or blower that uses a cast crank.
But I'll bet they are out there.
As mentioned in other posts , a REALISTIC look at what you are going to be doing with it is first.
To be fast , you need to be safe.
And smart doesn't hurt either.........actually makes the first two a lot easier.
And that gem of wisdom is coming from a real dummy , so take it for what it's worth.

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I appreciate the words of wisdom guys, and I will say, I am going to step up to the forged...ive thought about it lots, and im only 21- even though its alot of money, its the last time i want to do this for a while, so i mine as well suck it up now to not worry about it later

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The SCAT crank will take more HP than the stock 360 cast crank. The stock crank has oil grooves(stress risers) all the way around the rod journals. The minimum diameter is significantly smaller on the stock crank than the radiused journal on the SCAT cast crank so there is just plain more meat there and NO stress riser. SCAT also uses better metal, cast steel VS cast iron so the SCAT is much stronger than the factory 360 crank. Also since the SCAT crank is a 4 inch stroke you will end up with a much lighter piston even if the motors make the SAME HP and it will turn fewer RPM at the same HP so ther is much less load on the crank. Balancing is not more expensive if you externally balance it and beleive it or not there are still a lot of motors out there that last a long time that are externally balanced.

If you are useing a SCAT I beam and reasonably light pistons you will be fine at 500 hp. The stock cranks worked fine for years with heavy stock rods and heavy TRW style pistons and the SCAT crank is significantly stronger. If you notice the guys in this thread (and most other threads) that have experianced cast crank failure were doing stuff they were not supposed to do like breaking trannys and running them in powerful dirt track cars and nitrous...

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Hey man, you make very good points. I had thought the same thing that the scat stuff would be stronger than the old stuff (only makes sense i thought?) but others say nay...In all honesty though, i think even if i might be okay, atleast if i upgrade to forged the worry about possible crank breakage and the rest of my motor going with it is out of my mind (although still possible i guess).

I still have to call Coast High though and see if they will refund the kit for me...that may be a challenge in its self..crossing my fingers now

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If you have the kit, use it and do not worry about it. You are talking street car with 4 speed, you will be ok. My car is a drag car with 33 inches slick and 9 second time slips, trans brake. I will use the scat crank in a street aplication all day long and not worry about it.

Note: the trans brake is worse than 4 speed. Like dave says because of the radius, the scatt scrank is stronger than any factory 360

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Plans are to only up the power from here on out though, and id rather have a rotating assembly that i wont have to worry about (block will be next obviously)...Let's put it this way, im convinced to going forged now, lets not reverse that lol

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If you have the kit, use it and do not worry about it. You are talking street car with 4 speed, you will be ok. My car is a drag car with 33 inches slick and 9 second time slips, trans brake. I will use the scat crank in a street aplication all day long and not worry about it.

Note: the trans brake is worse than 4 speed. Like dave says because of the radius, the scatt scrank is stronger than any factory 360

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Plans are to only up the power from here on out though, and id rather have a rotating assembly that i wont have to worry about (block will be next obviously)...Let's put it this way, im convinced to going forged now, lets not reverse that lol

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If you have the kit, use it and do not worry about it. You are talking street car with 4 speed, you will be ok. My car is a drag car with 33 inches slick and 9 second time slips, trans brake. I will use the scat crank in a street aplication all day long and not worry about it.

Note: the trans brake is worse than 4 speed. Like dave says because of the radius, the scatt scrank is stronger than any factory 360

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Plans are to only up the power from here on out though, and id rather have a rotating assembly that i wont have to worry about (block will be next obviously)...Let's put it this way, im convinced to going forged now, lets not reverse that lol

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you are on the right track, it's easy to say it will be fine when it's not your money. if it was a street car only I would use it. but I bet you want to go to the track with it.

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yes, it will see the track hopefully atleast a couple times this year, and im hoping if i can get a truck and trailer for the next summer (2012) I can possibly run the 11.90 index class at my local strip...I love racing, sooo much fun!

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If you have the kit, use it and do not worry about it. You are talking street car with 4 speed, you will be ok. My car is a drag car with 33 inches slick and 9 second time slips, trans brake. I will use the scat crank in a street aplication all day long and not worry about it.

Note: the trans brake is worse than 4 speed. Like dave says because of the radius, the scatt scrank is stronger than any factory 360

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Plans are to only up the power from here on out though, and id rather have a rotating assembly that i wont have to worry about (block will be next obviously)...Let's put it this way, im convinced to going forged now, lets not reverse that lol

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you are on the right track, it's easy to say it will be fine when it's not your money. if it was a street car only I would use it. but I bet you want to go to the track with it.

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if your plans include upgading the power, put the good stuff in the shortblock

My situation is different....it's just a li'l street cruiser/brawler...lol with no intensions of upgrading

Rickster