rapom Very nice job. Im gonna have to cut mine out and redo them. I wasnt happy with how they were done the first tim.

Great job rapom. Looks just like mine did before the outriggers and roll bar.

More pics to add since the old ones are all dead...

This is the outrigger + main hoop installation

This is the full roll bar.

Kicker bars are welded to the frame tie.

Side bars are welded to front outriggers (2x3 stub welded between the rocker and the frame rail)

The only pieces that are sitting on plates are the two rear bars, in the trunk...everything else is part of the structure.

The eventual need for a roll bar was a real deciding factor when doing the frame ties this way....it paid off to plan ahead.

Thanks for the compliments guys. Molloy, I'm no chassis guy but that sounds like a good idea. Zippy, I think the pics Todd DesMarais sent me were of your the install of the connectors on your car. I wasn't sure though.
Your cage install looks awesome. You won't have to worry about the car not being stiff enough when you have future torque upgrades.

Holly Crow, IT'S STILL ALIVE !!!!!

Good job John, I'm a bit supprised that you welded the floor on the bottom also. and yes the pics I sent you were of the "Zippety Doo Dah's" car sorry Rich, had to say it.

Todd

I also thought it was a little overkill but I welded both sides because I wanted it to look cleaner. I also mini tubbed and moved leaf springs into the frame rails last winter. This fall I replaced some of the trunk floor and cleaned off the sounddeadener on the inside quarters. I wanted to sandblast and paint the undercarrage but it now seems a little to cold for putting on the Zero Rust since it has to be above 50 to use it. My next big jobs this winter are to replace the lower rear quarters and fill in the trim holes down the side of the car. This pic is of some 325/50/15 drag radials that fit in the tubs nicely now. The car will be sitting a lot lower than the pic shows though. Did you do any work to your 66 yet.

"it has to be above 50 to use it." three words, Radiant Tube Heater I love the lines of a coronet 'specially with meats in the back !

As for work on mine, well.....I did get it to the house this summer and have removed the hacked on drivers rocker panel. it was repaired from an accident and obviously done by someone who either didn't care, or had no idea of how to do a quality job. they "removed" some of the damaged rocker with a chisel and put one from another car over it by using a hammer and brazing rod. so I picked up a parts car for the rocker and a-pillar door post (piece where the vin tag is riveted) since mine has a slight inward bend to it.

I'll ship a few pics .

Todd

I really didn't want to paint in my garage if I didn't have to. With all the fumes and everything plus I would have to cover my other cars up and I have a pooch that sleeps in the garage over night. But I might do it. I look forward to seeing your pics.

Good idea, this thread has to much good info to let go.

hmmm interesting i did mine completly different i used 3x3 cut the flour pan, and on the rear of the original frame its L shaped at the flour pan then i welded in 1/4 x 3 x 8 inch plates to the original rear frame and rear conector.then in the front on the scrossover the flour pans on the front are cut out so i boxed the tranny crossmember witch looks flimsy anyways and added gussets to the inside of it to make it more riggid then i welded the front of the connector to it.After that i welded in a 3x3 in the back across the frame at the shock crossmember and cut the old thin cheep shock crossmember out and added gussets to the frame as well,then i went back in side and welded 2x3 from the rear of the frame conector across over the tranny hump and back to the other frame conector and added gessets so now the the tranny crossmember (that i boxed in) and the frame connectors are all one piece in both directions .then i added 1/8 x4 to the inside of the frame ralls from the trans crossmember all the way's to the radiator crossmember and trimed it to match the frame the car is solid as a rock Next i'm going to start drilling holes every place i can to loose weight.

Damn, Motorcar you building a tank?

I guess I'll participate & keeps this one going also. There is another thread going right now on frame connectors also. The is what I did with mine. I have done mine a totally different way then everyone else. It was alot of extra work. But I am going for that sleeper look (if that is possible with a HEMI car!!!!) I want the all stock look. I cut off the rocker panels of my 70' Challenger & hid the 2"x3" tubing inside the body. I tied it into the transmission cross member body support at the front stitch welded along the entire body & into the side of the rear frame rails at the rear. I obtained an original set of factory E-body boxed in spring perches from an original HEMI parts car. Once I installed these the only way to tell the car has been frame connected is to look into the small square hole from underneath that is there to mount the rear leaf spring mounts. It came out awesome but was alot of work. The car is still on the rotisserie as of now completely stripped & there is no body flex at all.

Wow, that is a lot of work!

Yes it was. But it is probably going to be a 10 second all steel,full interior,all stock appearing street car. To modified to run pure stock. I will probably do the same thing to my Charger when I finally restore it someday. But for now I just made some quick welded 1-1/2"x2" connectors like everyone else has when I put the HEMI in the Charger. They definately make a difference. Frame connectors should of been factory for big block cars.

Old thread but GREAT information. Unfortunately the pictures appear to be long gone.

I am working on my '69 RR and am at the point where I have to decide what type of SFC to use. After reading the thread, I am leaning towards the 2x3 homemade units extending into the rear subframes.

Although I think many of the post adequately describe the process, pictures are worth a 1000 words, blah, blah, blah...

Anyone care to repost the pictures of theirs? Please!

Thanks.

Check out the ones from US CARTOOL designed to be welded directly to your floor. They look great.

I did check out uscartool.com, but I couldn't find any information on connectors for a 69 b-body (only e-bodies and 71-2 b-body).

They do seem nice, and if they are available for a 69, I would definitely give them serious consideration, even though they are nearly 10x the cost of a length of 2x3. The almost-factory look and no need to worry about hacking the floorpan may be worth it.

I just got a set of them at the Nationals and I must say I am impressed. I have not had a chance to install them yet, but I can't wait. Funny thing is, I just finished some 2x2 connectors on my wagon, which made a big difference in the car WITHOUT tying into the floor. The Coronet is much faster and will see dragstrip duty, so the US Car and Tool frame connectors is the way to go for the turbo car. Besides, John at US Car and Tool is great to deal with!