Quote:

---

I'm sitting here looking at the wiring diagram for the 72 cuda and I can't see how that could possibly happen.

---

Quote:

---

I'm sitting here looking at the wiring diagram for the 72 cuda and I can't see how that could possibly happen. I have leds everywhere I can put them, and they work fine. Leds are Diodes, that means they only work one way, turn them around and they don't work and block the current from flowing. The dome light works off the switches in the doors and also works off the headlight switch allowing it to be turned on. I suspect that is where the problem is since it appears to be the only common area where the brakelights etc are connected. The LED in the dome should not cause any outattage in the other lights.

---

What flasher are you using? MIne is napa EL-12L-1. It has a pigtail coming out of the bottom, which i assumed is a ground? Forget about my statement about the back up lights. the wire came off at the transmission. What bulbs will i have to change to LED for the flasher to work. I got the 2 white front turn signal bulbs (1157) but the two red LED bulbs (1157) for the brake and turn signal are on back order. I put the two that i got in the back, they will come on with the turn signal lever, but do not blink.

Quote:

---

You can't run incandescent AND LEDs at the same time...DAMHIK...Even the flashers that state they can run LEDs and stock bulbs, won't light up. I installed LEDs on my tail lights..one side at a time. The drivers side would light up and the passenger side would be dark. You have to put an electronic flasher on the turn signal side as well as the 4-way flasher. One thing to note for those who are doing the upgrade, the turn signal flasher with the terminals that are |_ ...I had to reverse those two wires for it to work. It was a gremlin that I couldnt trace until I tried it by pure luck...and it was successful

---

...I put a 68 B-cuda wiring harness down the passenger side of my 70 tube chassis Cuda. I ran 1157's up front & these HITECH Products super bright (132 per side)LED's in the rear with the stock relay for 3 yrs & no problems on the street. The 1157's have to be working though or the LED's want.
...I used a Quick-connect in the front light harness at the fire wall for Quick dog house removal. Sometimes that connection rattled a little loose to the point my front blinker circuit on the passenger side wouldn't blink, & so also with the LED of the rear. Wire tied/fixed. The relay didn't know the LED's were there. The HITECH's are BRIGHT!

Quote:

---

That flasher sounds suspect. I got mine from Superbrightleds and the number on it is 10R 02 702, 12v 30W, Made in EU, Name on it is ELECTRONIC FLASHER, There is no pigtail or anything like that it is just a 2 prong flasher that replaces the flasher connected to the ash tray back. (You did plug the flasher in the right place didn't you?).

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

That flasher sounds suspect. I got mine from Superbrightleds and the number on it is 10R 02 702, 12v 30W, Made in EU, Name on it is ELECTRONIC FLASHER, There is no pigtail or anything like that it is just a 2 prong flasher that replaces the flasher connected to the ash tray back. (You did plug the flasher in the right place didn't you?).

---

The napa flasher is listed as LED compatable and it was plugged in correct. Do the four ways also have a flasher.

---

Quote:

---

DONT wire in any resisters, they look real bad, get hot, and they're not necessary.

---

It might depend on whether there are ANY incandescents left in the circuit. Certainly, non-flashing circuits, like dome, running lights, etc. won't matter. But flashing circuits might still be sensitive/inoperative, even with a electronic flasher. That was the case with my car; everything outside (except for headlights, of course) is LED. The turn signals wouldn't work properly, because the load is just too low.
Had to put resistors on the front turn signals for it all to work properly. Fortunately, since the resistors are only on the front turn signal bulbs, they don't heat up that much, and the additional electrical load is ONLY when using the turn signals (or four-way flashers, if necessary), but not when driving with lights on or when applying brakes.

My side markers are also LED. If they were still the incandescent 194s, it would work properly without the resistor. But that is only because I have them wired to flash with turn signal.

If the OP replaces all the fore/aft bulbs with LEDs, leaves the side markers as incandescent 194s, and wires the front side markers to flash with the turn signals (which is easy to do), it will probably work without any resistors, as long as an electronic flasher is used.

BTW, making the side markers flash with the turn signals is easy to do. Simply rewire the ground of the side marker pigtail to the turn signal wire of the front turn signal pigtail. The rears can be done the same way, except the wire from the turn signal must be run from the front of the car (or the appropriate wire of the dash harness) to the side marker. Otherwise the rear side markers would be activated also by the brake light(s).

Quote:

---

First I went out to the Sylvania website and printed out the Lamp Replacement guide for my car.

Lamp Replacement Guide

Then I went to Superbrightleds (this is not an endorsement I'm sure other sites have what you need) and ordered the 1157 and 1156 and their funky resisters to put inline so my turn signals would work. When they came in I took one look and there was no way I wanted to put those resisters in my wiring harness so I called them and they sent me the flasher. That was all I needed to get it working. I then ordered the amber 1157's for the front turn signals. I really like those they are much brighter than the original lights. I have replaced every bulb in the car with led's were available and love them. The dome light is a 211-2. I replaced all the dash lights too. Then I went with a halogen headlight kit and replaced that too. The first one used 100w bulbs and it melted the wires to my dimmer switch so I fixed the wires and went to 65w, no proplem so far. Im going with relays and new lights this winter, just haven't decided yet what I want to use. There hope that helps. DONT wire in any resisters, they look real bad, get hot, and they're not necessary.

Oh yeah I never did replace the emergency flasher, I dont think I've ever had it on.

---

Quote:

---

That flasher sounds suspect. I got mine from Superbrightleds and the number on it is 10R 02 702, 12v 30W, Made in EU, Name on it is ELECTRONIC FLASHER, There is no pigtail or anything like that it is just a 2 prong flasher that replaces the flasher connected to the ash tray back. (You did plug the flasher in the right place didn't you?).

---