Hey Guys!

I'm working on getting my '67 Coronet ready for the street. I have a bone-stock (except electronic ignition) 318-2bbl out of a '70 Coronet in it... the engine sat for about 10 years before we brought it back to life.

Anyway, its really hard to start... the more initial timing that I put into it, the easier it becomes to start.

I'm at the point where I have 25* advance at 800RPM idle (verified with 2nd light) and it will start after about 20-30 seconds of cranking... much less advance than that and it will just crank away.

Once it finally starts, the engine idles quite nicely, and runs and drives OK (up and down the driveway anyway).

Is this a symptom of something going on inside the engine?

Also, the carb (Carter BBD) drips fuel from the boosters after I shut the engine off.

Any ideas?

was the carb rebuilt after setting for 10 yrs?

Well, the BBD is a lousy carb, and they don't take rebuilds very well. When they work, they work OK, when they don't, they'll drive you mad! Personally, I HATE them!

Timing numbers? could be a slipped dampner, could be a loose chain (probably), could be that the timing number your getting is offsetting just how bad your carb is...

The float is bad or the needle and seat has dirt in it. be careful leaning this carb out too much as it will make it stumble The BBD is easy carb and very reliable when rebuilt correctly. The Rochester version is a bit of a pain in the tail as it is very sensitive to dirt.If that dist sat for 10 years I would rebuild it or at leas t spray the advance weights with PB blaster, or as stated the timing chain cam gear is history

Hey Guys!

I opened the carb, and cleaned everything up with carb spray, removed the internal components and sprayed those too, but have not rebuilt it yet since it idles and drives so nicely.

If the BBD is such a bad carb, what would be the best 2bbl to swap on in its place? Im looking for economy with this car, so I dont want to do a 4bbl swap... except as last resort.

I lubricated the distributer advance springs and plates when I was in there putting the Pertronix in, and it appears to be working nicely. I hadnt thought about the timing chain being wasted... that would be a bummer.

Thanks guys!

Did you adjust the air gap on the Pertronix unit?

Check for vacuum leaks

Hey Guys!

OK, a bit of an update here...

We have a Super Six with a BBD on it sitting right beside the car we are working on, so we decided to try swapping that carb on just to see what would happen.

With the other carb, the engine would fire up instantly. This allowed us to dial back the timing to a sensible level. The problem with this carb though is that the idle was terrible... up and down, up and down due to major vaccuum leaks around the throttle shaft.

The fact that this other carb cured the starting issue proved to us that it was in fact a carb issue, and (likely) not a timing issue, or whatever.

We cleaned out the original carb, noticing this time that the idle tubes(?) were completely clogged full of dirt. We cleaned those out and now the fuel doesnt drip from the boosters, but it is still a bit difficult to start.

Now, to get it to start reasonably quickly, I have to rapidly pump the throttle before and during cranking. To me, this seems to indicate that it could be a worn accelerator pump that is causing the starting issue.

As suggested, I'm going to rebuild the carb like I should have in the first place... at the very least, I'll stick a new accelerator pump in it and see if that helps.

Thanks for your help guys, and am appreciative of any more feedback and suggestions!

I finally rebuild the original BBD, and it is even harder to start than before... :-(

The accelerator pump appears to barely squirt anything out. The 2-bbl we pulled from that Super Six shoots two nice streams, but this rebuilt one barely spits anything out.

With the top off of the carb, if I manually plunge the accelerator pump, it shoots a couple of decent streams, but once the top is on, I barely get a dribble.

Hey!

Yes, I did put the large check ball under the plunger.

Quote:

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Did you set the height of the plunger shaft underneath the flat cover on top that houses the metering rods. Most are 1/2" or 15/32".

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Im not sure what measurement you are referring to here... is it the screw that holds the metering rod assembly in place? I just screwed it in till it stopped.

Thank you so much for the input! This thing is driving me crazy!

underneath the flat cover they're (2) miniature screws,one locks one of the brown plastic pieces onto the cross shaft that controls the height of the accel pump plunger & the other sets the height of the other brown plastic piece that manually raises the metering rod tree. But for now jerk the throttle open & if you are not getting a good stream look at the little S link & the amt of plunger travel. Between gas $$$ & my BBD issue I am very close to just parking everything for a period of time & either jogging or taking the bus to where I need to go.

The carb kit didn't come with instructions so I used my service manual to help do the rebuild, but this piece was left over... I don't recall removing anything like it, but it doesn't appear to fit anywhere.

Where does this go?

I will take some pics of my offending carb. I'm having a blast with my(1st) digital camera. EDIT your BBD doesnt have a flat plate covering the metering rod tree?

since you showed me yours I will show you mine & it's for sure different.

T7superbee here's mine. I don't have an ocean nearby to toss it into like I'd like to but it is going to dissapear.