I have a car i want to store under a carport for the winter months? Any suggestions on how to prepare the car? Do you like the storage bags? Thanks

Change oil and filter, charge the battery, put some fabric softener sheets in to detere critters and park it till spring.

Run the tank down to less than 1/4 or totally empty if possible. Make sure the coolant is either fresh and properly mixed, or drain the block completely (means removing the pipe plugs down by the core plugs and if needed using a screwdriver to punch thru the sand at the bottom to allow for the coolant to completely drain). I buy a fresh box of dry sheets and spread them liberally thru the whole car including trunk, under front seats, in cowl, under hood, int he air ceaner... Unhook and remove the battery, and that's it. Ignore it until it's nice out again.

I have left my 73 outside for over 23 years I lay down a good tarp or plastic sheet, install a good car cover that is not plastic or vinyl. I fill the tank to the top and add staybil and if you don't run the car I do during the winter put a battery minder on it Sears had a good one on sale for $20. Leaving the tank empty promotes corrosion same with the block anti freeze it up and disconnect the battery if not using a tender or it will be dead if it goes below 0 and you have a constant draw. Also not driving it promotes flat spotted tires Decent day run it around the block if you can do it

that stuff sounds good. i'd also add enough "Stabil" to the gas tank, as recommended on the bottle, and run it long enough to make it up to the carb. if you have four jackstands, i might also raise the vehicle slightly, to take some weight off the tires and springs, to keep from making flat spots, in the tire belts. some guys like to wash, and dry the car too, and put on a decent coat of wax, but not buff it off, before storing as well. depends on how you feel about waxing your car. those dryer sheets are excellent advice, and a large canister of desiccant, laid on the floor, will keep any mildew from growing. you might find it at a marine store, or possibly a big box home repair store. dont put plastic or tarps on top of the car, they hold moisture, promote rust and wear away the paint.

I put a good cover on the car and then cover the roof with a tarp, because of the sunroof. It's usually kept inside though.

all sounds like good stuff, i will add the following...tarp over the car cover and on the first dry day after a rain or if u see it damp..remove the tarp and car cover and let the car breathe..also i ran the car every month while out there...

I live in California, why would I need to do anything....

I wouldn't start at all until spring unless it is run long enough to get completely warmed up and long enough to evaporated all condensation out of the system. Equivalent to at least a 10 mile drive. Other wise you are doing more harm than good.

..why change the oil and filter?
would it be better to wait until spring or am i missing something...?

Get any built up accumulation of acids out of the engine before letting it sit. That is why I like to change in the fall.

Mine stays outside year round. $50 Soft cover and a $50 waterproof cover over it.

Sta-bil. Absorbent paks. Rent climate controlled garage.

Alot of good advice in your replies.
I do mostly the same except for the fuel, oil and starting.

Fuel tank should be full of fuel. If it goes below freezing where you live. Add gas line antifreeze. Summer fuel has none.

The oil should be changed just before. This was you are not storing with acids and contaminants in your oil. Then after storage, that oil is still brand new, you start your interval there.

As for starting, I say no. The build up of condensation is more harm than being just left alone. If you can't drive it, don't touch it.

I did that once when I moved to a new house. I had a nice NOHA car cover from California car covers and it did a good job. The only issue was high winds would sometimes try to pull the cover off, and the winds caused some rubbing on the paint expecially on the lower rockers where the cable lock/holdowns are located. I think the car port would help sheild the car from the winds so probbably not a problem?

I've learned an empty tank is better, at least for me. The alcohol in the fuel attracts moisture and the stabil doesnt seem to work like it used to. My car will evaporate a bunch of fuel sitting with the vented tank.. Like almost 1/2 ot it over the winter, and what's let is full of water. Enough that it looks different. So now I leave it as close to empty as I can, the rest evaporates in a month or less, and when I start it it's all fresh. Just me thou. Where I store it, he uses full tanks..lol.

lots of dryer sheets,VISORS DOWN! would think you could close in your car port fairly cheap,even if you just used heavy plastic,you'd get better air flow under car

Have never had a problem with cold weather evaporation. Always the same level in spring as I left it. Also no rust on the inner tank walls from condensation with a full tank. On a frosty morning you can look at a gas tank and see the fuel level by the frost line above the fuel level. This is exactly what it looks like inside the tank and this in turn turns to water. I will fill the tank.
Even my fluid filled tractor tires will have a coating of frost above the fluid level on cold damp frosty mornings.
But do what ever works for you.