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I tried to post this today but it seems to have disappeared.

I'm building a 451 stroker. What I have now is:

400 block
MP 440 stroker crank (400 journal size)
906 heads with roller rockers, 2.02/1.81 valves, not sure what the springs are rated for.
stock 440 rods
TTi 1 7/8 ceramic coated headers
7 quart pan

I need help on a good intake, carb, cam, lifters, push rods set up. Also I would like to know if the rods are okay or if I should spend coin on some H beams and how to shop for pistons.

I did a search and couldn't find any 451 recipes. This is a pump gas street car with 3.91 SG and 4 speed.

Thanks!

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have you tried to fit that crank in the block yet ? I bought one of those from MP and all they did was take the Hemi replacement crank and and have it sized with low deck mains. When I went to check clearance in the block the counterweights sat on the bottom of the bores , crank didn't even sit in the bearing saddles. The OD of the counterweights is roughly 7.500 , I had them cut down to7.200 only needed a couple small holes to balance for 2300ish bobweight. If you notch the bores and use the crank as delivered you'll end up turning the counterweights into swiss cheese to get it down in weight as they are sized for a HEMI bobweight.

Otherwise I'd think long and hard about getting a better rod than stock LY's and if you are going to use open chamber iron heads you should build for quench , which is alot of work to do it correctly, if you want a pump gas friendly moder, will require a step head piston with a D dish.

That's How I would and am currently doing it , it's a little more expensive but the end results are worth it .

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I tried to post this today but it seems to have disappeared.

I'm building a 451 stroker. What I have now is:

400 block
MP 440 stroker crank (400 journal size)
906 heads with roller rockers, 2.02/1.81 valves, not sure what the springs are rated for.
stock 440 rods
TTi 1 7/8 ceramic coated headers
7 quart pan

I need help on a good intake, carb, cam, lifters, push rods set up. Also I would like to know if the rods are okay or if I should spend coin on some H beams and how to shop for pistons.

I did a search and couldn't find any 451 recipes. This is a pump gas street car with 3.91 SG and 4 speed.

Thanks!

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have you tried to fit that crank in the block yet ? I bought one of those from MP and all they did was take the Hemi replacement crank and and have it sized with low deck mains. When I went to check clearance in the block the counterweights sat on the bottom of the bores , crank didn't even sit in the bearing saddles. The OD of the counterweights is roughly 7.500 , I had them cut down to7.200 only needed a couple small holes to balance for 2300ish bobweight. If you notch the bores and use the crank as delivered you'll end up turning the counterweights into swiss cheese to get it down in weight as they are sized for a HEMI bobweight.

Otherwise I'd think long and hard about getting a better rod than stock LY's and if you are going to use open chamber iron heads you should build for quench , which is alot of work to do it correctly, if you want a pump gas friendly moder, will require a step head piston with a D dish.

That's How I would and am currently doing it , it's a little more expensive but the end results are worth it .

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John,

No, I haven't checked that crank yet but you can bet I will this weekend. I was wondering why the heck MP would sell a Hemi replacement crank as a 400 based stroker crank that doesn't fit the application... Then I remember that we are talking about MP... Hopefully MP corrected the gaff before my crank was purchased.

If it's okay, I would like to PM ya regarding the pistons and rods for some more details. What cam/intake/carb are you using? I'll be in the garage tonight checking on my rockers and that crank.

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If you have access to a good crankshaft grinding company you can have the crankshaft offset ground to BB chevy rod journal sizes and make the stroke grow to 3.910 or 3.900, depending on if the crank is stock Mopar rod journal size now or if it is ground down to .010 under. That allows you to buy a decent forged piston from KB and use a 6.585 long BB Chevy style H beam rod for a decent price This combination will make the motor 464 to 471 C.I. depending on the bore size, this was a common way to stroke a Mopar before the price of stroker crankshafts came down. The increase in stroke really makes the motor wake and act like a big dog It ends up making a lot more torque as well HP

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Cab, I've read through a couple blogs and articals describing the BBC rod deal so I understand at least in theory. If my crank is like John's was, I will be taking it in to have the bob weights shaved and give your idea serious consideration. The guy that's helping me build the motor actually owns a shop that specializes in crank turning, so with the cheaper rods and slugs and low cost shop time, I may come out better all the way around if the crank needs work.

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If it's okay, I would like to PM ya regarding the pistons and rods for some more details. What cam/intake/carb are you using? I'll be in the garage tonight checking on my rockers and that crank.

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MPs method of correcting the RB sized counterweights was to stop selling that crankshaft. Stop selling the part, problem solved. Just being honest. Plan on either putting it in a lathe or working it by hand.

I'm using a reworked OE crank in mine, which I reshaped the counterweights using a homemade template + a series of grinding and polishing up the counterweights. It was an 80 dollar swap meet crankshaft that I paid another 90 dollars for machine work, 25 to mag, and the rest I did myself.
I wouldn't really recommend anyone else do that, but I was a broke musician at the time and dont mind doing tedious stuff like that.

I would have to have some idea what the goals are, and what the budget is to really make any recommendations on the combo, how to buy pistons, what to look for etc.

My own goals for my 451 was ballpark 600HP flywheel and high 10s. I've got the first one (499rwhp), and hope to make it to the second goal this year. It's also a pump gas street car that started with 3.91s, but now has 4.10s, and is driven for hours at a stretch on the street...

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If you have access to a good crankshaft grinding company you can have the crankshaft offset ground to BB chevy rod journal sizes and make the stroke grow to 3.910 or 3.900, depending on if the crank is stock Mopar rod journal size now or if it is ground down to .010 under. That allows you to buy a decent forged piston from KB and use a 6.585 long BB Chevy style H beam rod for a decent price This combination will make the motor 464 to 471 C.I. depending on the bore size, this was a common way to stroke a Mopar before the price of stroker crankshafts came down. The increase in stroke really makes the motor wake and act like a big dog It ends up making a lot more torque as well HP

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okay, If you're looking for a mild build that will run AC and idle nicely at 800 RPM, then really, why are we talking about spending money to hack into his MP crank, if he already has a 440 block sitting there????

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His crank already has 2 and 5/8 mains, which will give him
1/8" oil clearance if installed in a 440 block.

400 mains 2 and 5/8
440 mains 2 and 3/4

Not gonna work

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I'm building a 451 stroker. What I have now is:

400 block
MP 440 stroker crank (400 journal size)

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His crank already has 2 and 5/8 mains, which will give him
1/8" oil clearance if installed in a 440 block.

400 mains 2 and 5/8
440 mains 2 and 3/4

Not gonna work

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I thought we had already established that the crank was a Hemi Crank, would have to be machined to fit into a B-Block. ???

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