Re: Four (4) Headlights on relay's ?........
[Re: MoparMarq]
#79764
06/26/08 03:58 PM
06/26/08 03:58 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168 Vancouver, WA
MoparMarq
super stock
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super stock
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Vancouver, WA
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The junction box off the Maxima. The big fusible link is to the battery (trunk mounted). The three smaller ones are for dash power, rad fan controller, and headlight relay box power.
What's not shown in the picture obviously is the wire from the alternator that will bolt onto the power stud next to the box.
Last edited by MoparMarq; 06/26/08 04:00 PM.
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Re: Four (4) Headlights on relay's ?........
[Re: Barry70GTX]
#79767
06/26/08 09:57 PM
06/26/08 09:57 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
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NITROUSN
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I don't see any reason to use 2 relays. I use one and wire it in at the dimmer switch. No wire cutting and it is hidden under the carpet and left kick panel.
Please explain how you wire one relay in to do the job?
The green wire from the light switch turns on the relay for the direct current path from the battery.I run a hot wire from the starter relay.Wire it back to the dimmer switch and the current takes its normal route to the headlamps.Eliminating any current for the headlamps traveling through the AMP Gauge.
So what do you do or how do you wire one relay for both high and low beams?
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Re: Four (4) Headlights on relay's ?........
[Re: Barry70GTX]
#79769
06/26/08 10:26 PM
06/26/08 10:26 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,432 UPPER MICHIGAN, MARQUETTE COUN...
NITROUSN
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Quote:
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I don't see any reason to use 2 relays. I use one and wire it in at the dimmer switch. No wire cutting and it is hidden under the carpet and left kick panel.
Please explain how you wire one relay in to do the job?
The green wire from the light switch turns on the relay for the direct current path from the battery.I run a hot wire from the starter relay.Wire it back to the dimmer switch and the current takes its normal route to the headlamps.Eliminating any current for the headlamps traveling through the AMP Gauge.
I see what you are doing. Running the load through the ammeter is just part of the problem. The way you are doing it you still can have voltage loss at the dimmer switch and connector as well as the bulkhead. The correct way is to use 2 relays for both high and low beams and bypass all the inherent weak areas the cars are known for.
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Re: Four (4) Headlights on relay's ?........
[Re: Barry70GTX]
#79772
06/26/08 10:47 PM
06/26/08 10:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,432 UPPER MICHIGAN, MARQUETTE COUN...
NITROUSN
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I Live Here
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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Quote:
I don't see any reason to use 2 relays. I use one and wire it in at the dimmer switch. No wire cutting and it is hidden under the carpet and left kick panel.
Please explain how you wire one relay in to do the job?
The green wire from the light switch turns on the relay for the direct current path from the battery.I run a hot wire from the starter relay.Wire it back to the dimmer switch and the current takes its normal route to the headlamps.Eliminating any current for the headlamps traveling through the AMP Gauge.
I see what you are doing. Running the load through the ammeter is just part of the problem. The way you are doing it you still can have voltage loss at the dimmer switch and connector as well as the bulkhead. The correct way is to use 2 relays for both high and low beams and bypass all the inherent weak areas the cars are known for.
I've never had any problem with the wiring past the light switch on these old cars. It is always the bulkhead-amp gauge-switch.
You are lucky. I have repaired many dimmer switch connectors and bulkheads were the high and low pass through. The dual relay is a true fix.
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Re: Four (4) Headlights on relay's ?........
#79773
06/27/08 01:06 AM
06/27/08 01:06 AM
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Anonymous
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Whoa....hold on here folks.
Let's try to keep this post to the 4 headlight question, and taking the load off the headlight switch.
Let's take the old ammeter out of the equation here (Mine is shunted) and works fine. I'm wired directly from alternator, through dash, and back out to fused starter relay stud (By passed 5 connectors). I'm good...works well.
My headlights are very bright at idle, and I want to take the load off the headlight switch.
Back to the relay question.
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Re: Four (4) Headlights on relay's ?........
#79774
06/27/08 01:25 AM
06/27/08 01:25 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,109 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
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1- what barry posted is good to save the headlight switch BUT JUST THAT... as stated by Nitrous, high power is still running thought floor dimmer switches. We need to note that relays are to save load FROM SWITCHES since those are the weakest points. with that mod you still are using A SWITCH ( even a selector ) to feed headlights. Maybe that would work to regular beams, but definitelly NOT WITH HALOGENS or higher consumption lights kind. 2-wires and terminals EVEN SPADE ONES support the halogen and other higher consumption lights. In fact if you think THE ORIGINAL RELAY SETUP ALREADY USES spad ekind terminals, then why worry about bulkhead. Bulkhead is to worry on more than 40-50 amps loads. headlights never gets that. So once again as stated, relays are to save internal points of stock switches what are the real weak point. 3- feeding from batt will get wrong reading on ammeter and will overheat the bulkhead and ammeter since alt will be constantly recharging batt even when is not the bat what needs to be charged. Relays would it be the devices what simulates the batt discharge being on that side of the charging net. Feeding relays from alt side will make the load keeps OUT OF THE AMMETER.. of course that is if and just if you have a plenty powerfull alt. If not, then batt will be the device feeding and then the problem is backward, but still the same original had. BTW have all my relays inside the cab and still being feeded from ammeter stud, alt side. WORKS CHARMING!!! usefull reading: web page
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Four (4) Headlights on relay's ?........
[Re: Ludington1]
#79776
08/03/08 11:16 PM
08/03/08 11:16 PM
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CRIMP CONNECTORS: The idea that PROPERLY crimped QUALITY connectors are inferior to soldered connectors is nonsense. Some of the most expensive test equipment and military equipment in the world uses crimp connections
RELAYS: You MUST use two, one for high and one for low, and put them as close to the lights / battery supply as possible, otherwise you defeat the purpose
69chargeryeehaa:
With respect, your installation is very poor practice. Connecting circuits to unprotected battery posts is a poor idea from the aspect of corrosion and intermittent problems down the line. The gassing from the battery will eventually seep into the relays--which are NOT sealed--and corrode the contacts and other connections. I hear others mounting electrical accessories under the battery tray, and this, too, is poor practice.
The relays should be away from engine heat as much as possible, protected from battery gases, and road splash.
PROBABLY, up high forward of the rad support is a condsideration. You might need to build a small sheet metal shield for road splash.
Also, if you use those self-resetting little rectangular breakers, REMEMBER--they are degraded in amperage by ENGINE HEAT. So are fuses. If you decide to mount them, for example, INSIDE the car, then you'll be faced with battling the ever present bulkhead connection--probably most of the problem in the first place.
Also, the factory wiring, both for tail lamps and headlights, is FAR FAR from what I'd use. I'd use at LEAST #14, even for tail lamps.
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Re: Four (4) Headlights on relay's ?........
#79777
08/04/08 12:07 AM
08/04/08 12:07 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,109 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
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wherever you put the relays allways gets wins and loose factors...
-inside the cab, save from heat, dust, grease or corrosion and also gets a clean engine bay view but is true you loose some on distance but is not that critical.
about terminals... bulkhead terminals are able to drive the halogen beams power from relays. IF YOU THINk relays and plugs ALREADY use those spade terminals, why not the bulkhead if they are the same kind ?... just need to take care about the positive source coming from alt/batt... I use the alt source to keep the right reading on ammeter. ( yes I keep the ammeter )
-On engine bay, of course opposite pros and cons than above
I didn't cut wires, just removed the terminals from original plugs cavities and moved to relay plug, then run the same color and gauge wire from relay to original plug cavity to get everything back to normal.
Darren, relays are just to headlights, however you can use a realy for anything on your car, including parking lights.
I wouldn't use them for turning/hazzards. If you use a relay on turning/hazzards, flasher won't get same heat than normally gets with all bulbs load and will get a VERY slow blinker function ( if any blink ) because bimetallic on flasher never will heat. Just like when you don't have bulbs around ( or damaged ) and just cluster turn indicators... they never makes blink the flasher by themself, not enough load
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Four (4) Headlights on relay's ?........
[Re: 68Cbarge]
#79779
08/04/08 08:07 AM
08/04/08 08:07 AM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050 Texas
GoodysGotaCuda
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Re: Four (4) Headlights on relay's ?........
[Re: Ludington1]
#79781
08/05/08 01:21 PM
08/05/08 01:21 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168 Vancouver, WA
MoparMarq
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Quote:
Bringing this thread back from the dead... when you guys are putting in these relays for the headlights, are you putting the parking/turn signal lights on the relays also, or just leaving them on the factory harness?
Darren
Relays are just for the headlights, as they are high power draw items. No need for parking/turn signal lights, as they are low-current-draw. And relays on them would add unnecessary complexity.
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Re: Four (4) Headlights on relay's ?........
[Re: NachoRT74]
#79782
08/06/08 06:31 PM
08/06/08 06:31 PM
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Posts: 3,072 Farmland, IN
Ludington1
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One more for this thread... what size of fuse are you guys putting between the alternator stud and the relays? Thanks, Darren
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