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I have a 1969 340 GTS that I am restoring and looking for a good camshaft that will give me some extra performance. Running stock heads and carb and 2 1/2 inch exhaust with stock manifolds. Wondering what anyone could suggest for a good performing cam for me car...thanks so much.

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You never noted actual compression!! If high compression (9.5-10 to 1) the longer duration cam
would be good. Low compression (8.5 to 1) smaller
duration cams are best.

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all I can tell ya is I had the MP 340 grind cam in my old 340 swinger, that thing was a DOG. it was done at 5k.

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The timing events (duration) was moderate, matched
to the heads, I guess. Unless you are sure of the actual centerline (degreed in) you cant say it's a dog. A lot of factors do come into play (head/block milling, cam phase, line boring of mains/cam bores, etc.) when setting the cam up for optimum performance, even if it's stock (line up the dots method too).

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all I can tell ya is I had the MP 340 grind cam in my old 340 swinger, that thing was a DOG. it was done at 5k.

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The timing events (duration) was moderate, matched
to the heads, I guess. Unless you are sure of the actual centerline (degreed in) you cant say it's a dog. A lot of factors do come into play (head/block milling, cam phase, line boring of mains/cam bores, etc.) when setting the cam up for optimum performance, even if it's stock (line up the dots method too).

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I have a 1969 340 GTS that I am restoring and looking for a good camshaft that will give me some extra performance. Running stock heads and carb and 2 1/2 inch exhaust with stock manifolds. Wondering what anyone could suggest for a good performing cam for me car...thanks so much.

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I've read that Bob Karakashain can help with pure stock small block cam grinds. If you're considering all options, I'd give Bob a call for sure.

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all I can tell ya is I had the MP 340 grind cam in my old 340 swinger, that thing was a DOG. it was done at 5k.

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The timing events (duration) was moderate, matched
to the heads, I guess. Unless you are sure of the actual centerline (degreed in) you cant say it's a dog. A lot of factors do come into play (head/block milling, cam phase, line boring of mains/cam bores, etc.) when setting the cam up for optimum performance, even if it's stock (line up the dots method too).

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plusssst on all that. Done plenty of dot to dots and never had an issue. The car had fresh 9.5:1 .030 over 340, ported J heads, bigger valves, 1.6 roller rockers Air gap intake, 2800 stall, TTi 3 step exhaust w/ X-pipe and 3.55's best it could do was 13.82 w/ a 750DP....14.20 w/ a carter 625. Same set-up w/ a BB and the car wold have run low 12's.

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Not to say you're wrong, combo is right, but you
could have gone to a 3.90, 4.10 would have been
better. But I don't know your driving intentions
are, or if it's a dual purpose ride. Usually with
good heads and big valves, a motor wants to breathe easier as the rpm's increase, cam depending. Lower gears might have helped it to
"get there" quicker (powerband) and net you a better et, but mph may take some pony power on the
big end. It's a balancing act, with
torque and horsepower.

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I have a 1969 340 GTS that I am restoring and looking for a good camshaft that will give me some extra performance. Running stock heads and carb and 2 1/2 inch exhaust with stock manifolds. Wondering what anyone could suggest for a good performing cam for me car...thanks so much.

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I've read that Bob Karakashain can help with pure stock small block cam grinds. If you're considering all options, I'd give Bob a call for sure.

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100%. Another GOOD alternative!!

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I had a speed pro 214/224, 445/463 112 LSA supposed to be in at 107, was in at 103. 340 4 speed Dart ran 102-103 in the 1/4. The guy that built the engine didn't degree it. I would NOT suggest installing it where it was in my engine. It would turn 6K but was really all done about 5200.

It had a good, slight lope at idle to it and ran really good.

Here's a video of a 360 with a XE268H, flowmasters. Makes about 350hp/400 tq

http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b50/opkyle/?action=view&current=DemonontheRoad009.flv

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Where it was degreed at was a bit too much for the combo. Should have stayed with the 107 centerline. Even though it peaked at 5-5.2K rpm,
it STILL would have pulled VERY strong to that point!

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My 323" w/340 cam ,summit headers, streetmaster 318 intake, 318 areohead 1.88/1.60's , shaved/decked .060 to around 8.5:1 tru compression, 4.10's in the rear, 4 speed, was fast as a 90's 5 speed mustang 5.0L gt.

made,
14.8x at 90 in 1/4.
233 rwhp

What are you expecting? These hydralic lifter cams aren't for 6000 RPM. You get 5-5200 tops.

The 268xe is for budget bracket racing, not a great road cam. Sucks with 8.5 compression and stock converter.

A 90's 5 speed 5.0L off the lot is a quick car.

Do not just yalk to someone on the phone, or watch a video of some car. You do not have the whole of it. Find a car, at a local car meet/show that sounds how you like. Yak around with the guy about cam and compression. You can see the head type , intake , and carb for a rough cut. Bang you get what you want.

A "gran pas" imperial came through for a older restoration, Installed some 268 type lunati cam and springs. The guy freaked out when the mirrors vibrated at idle. Some people have a tolerance, or not.

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I beg to differ, some of these hydraulic cam profiles CAN and WILL power past the 6K rpm margin
easily! It's depends on the heads' breathing ability, valvetrain stability/strength and most important,
weight. It's best to match the cam with a COMPLETE
KIT, but sometimes it's not that way!! The same
cam profile will NOT work the SAME in every motor!
With that in mind, it is easy to say that, "It works in his 340, it should work in mine!". Not true!! That why there is a concept called "fine tuning". It's to get the MOST out of YOUR particular combo! Period.